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Member Since: Aug 8, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 27, 2014
Contact Mark Oveson


Point Rank: # 1,622
Total Points: 380
Last Year: 48
Last 30 Days: 0
11 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark Oveson been climbing?










Contributions


All 110 | Routes 14 | Areas 7 | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 2 | Stars 29 | Ratings 11

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Mark Oveson When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: John: Eldo climbing is tricky and has its own flavor. Nothing is straightforward; everything is a sidepull or a hidden hold; the footholds are hard to see; body position can make all the difference. Every 5.9 in Eldo feels harder than 5.9 until you're used to Eldo 5.9. Start out on some of the 5.6/5.7 classics and work your way up. Eldo is an acquired taste, particularly on lead. If you can get a partner and follow a bunch of routes, you'll get the hang of it. I've ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Kasparov Traverse (R) : Photo
By: Mark Oveson When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: That is not the Bishop's Scepter. Hard to tell from this angle, but it might be the Black Knight. The Bishop's Scepter is the unmistakable, stunning, pointy tower near the Rook.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : Kasparov Traverse (R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: William: climb all the summits, or none of them, or take the ones you like. All of them can be bypassed if the goal is simply to get from Shoshoni to Apache Peak staying near the ridge crest. But to say you have done the Kasparov Traverse, you have to climb the towers. :)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Aug 7, 2014

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Comments: P1: Cool and varied, but best led by someone comfortable leading above the grade. Some runouts and routefinding. Feels a bit mountaineer-y.

P2: The first roof is easier than it looks. Not harder than 5.7 and easier if you do it just right. The upper roof felt like solid 5.8. In between is a lot of nice slab climbing.

P3/P4: I've climbed the route twice and we combined these both times. Makes for a long, runout pitch with some interesting climbing. Not clean enough to be super-classic, but stil... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Bolting for Glory (5.10a)
By: Mark Oveson When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: The new bolts are great, Mike. Many thanks.

I agree the holds are slick but felt OK this morning. Get on it early.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Red Wall (5.10)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: The death flake pitch is great. Best pitch on the climb.

To keep the crux pitch at 10a, you have to traverse under the roof and then climb *down* the ramp for a good 20 feet, make a big step across at a flake, and then climb back up to the belay.

The move around the roof at the start of P5 is hard, and the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.8-5.9. Not a lot of good rest options on this pitch.

A cool adventure climb but be ready for anything.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jul 24, 2014

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Comments: P1 is 5.9 for more than a short section. Felt pretty sustained to me, with at least two and maybe three distinct 5.9 cruxes.

P3 is...hard.

P4 and P5 can be run together in a very long pitch. If you are comfortable simulclimbing a bit, it works with a 60 meter rope. We stayed left and ascended a chimney-like feature with a few old funky pitons. This is a wonderful pitch! A bucket-fest dessert after eating your offwidth veggies.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
By: Mark Oveson When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: The spire directly behind (north of) the Petit Grepon is called the Penknife. Here's an alternate descent route for the Petit:

From the summit of the Petit, rappel 100' to the north and scramble down the very narrow ridge to the base of the south face of the Penknife. One moderate pitch with a 5.6 move or two gets you to the summit of the Penknife. Rappel to the north from slings to the saddle between Sharkstooth and the Saber. Hike and scramble north down the Gash to the Andrews Glacier ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Penknife
By: Mark Oveson When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Highly recommended as a descent from the Petit Grepon. From the summit of the Petit, rappel 100' to the north and scramble down the very narrow ridge to the base of the south face of the Penknife. One moderate pitch with a 5.6 move or two gets you to the summit of the Penknife. Rappel to the north from slings to the saddle between Sharkstooth and the Saber.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this route before work this morning. Three words: fun, fun, fun. We did the lower section as two pitches (P1+P2, P3). This works well if you use long slings to avoid rope drag as you go around the corner. We also did upper Ruper as two pitches with a belay on a sloping stance about 30 feet below the roof (P4+P5, P6). This worked out so well it seems the natural way to do it.

The 150-foot combined P4+P5 has got to be one of the great 5.6 pitches in Eldo or anywhere. Consistent, ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Outer Space (5.10c R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Spectacular position and interesting climbing. The first pitch is insecure and sustained at 10a for a good 20-30 feet. I think the traditional "S" rating comes from this pitch, as you have to climb 8-10 feet above a small wired nut and risk a ledgefall. I followed both pitches, so take this in context, but to me the second pitch does seem to protect surprisingly well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: Climbed The Bulge for the first time this morning, and it is wonderful. If this is not the cleanest moderate route in Eldo, I'd like to know what is. Protection is very scarce, and I was glad to be following not leading.

That said, this route is NOT as dangerous for the second as it is for the leader--that assertion in the route description above is quite an overstatement. For the leader, there are a number of, ahem, opportunities for long and dangerous falls from 20-40 feet above gear. For... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this route twice in the past two weeks. First time I had some trouble routefinding, particularly finding the traverse on P2. Second time I got it just right. Here's what do to:

Climb the dihedral until it fades out into the face. A short distance above this point, there is a 3"-4" horizontal hold/ledge feature with a bunch of quartz pebbles embedded into it. Climb up until your feet are on that ledge, then traverse right to the arÍte. The traverse is a ways above gear, but the mov... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder Outdoor Coalition A...
By: Mark Oveson When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: Boulder climbers, please take time to pick up your ballots and vote this election. If you don't have a ballot, go get one today:

govotecolorado.com

Your vote in this election could make a serious difference. Some city council members and candidates would take away your nighttime access and your ability to travel off trail. Don't let this happen.

Register to vote, and vote the Boulder Outdoor Coalition slate. Thanks, all.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : Apache Peak : The Queen (5.0) : Photo
By: Mark Oveson When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: Actually, the square-topped tower on the right is the White Knight, and the pointy tower connected to it is the Knight's Pawn. The Queen is the darker-colored tower near the middle of the photo.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Pagoda Mountain : Crescent Ridge (5.6 PG13)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: Bill Briggs provided the inspiration for Bill Wright and I to do this route. He has climbed the route several times, including a solo ascent described here:

adventurerun.wordpress.com/200...

Briggs is sure someone else must have climbed it before he did, but he doesn't know who did the FA, so he thinks it best that we leave it Unknown. We did not see any piton scars or other signs of passage.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Atalanta (5.3)
By: Mark Oveson When: Sep 6, 2006

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Comments: This is the best of the short routes high on the East Face of the First Flatiron. The crux is short and secure. A climb not to be missed.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : James Peak : Superstar Couloir (5.4)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jun 28, 2006

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Comments: Warren Teissier, John Prater, and I climbed Super Star on June 17, 2006. Conditions were very good. Overnight temps were sufficiently cold to produce very firm snow. There was plenty of snow still up there, but a few little crevasses were starting to form up high in the couloir. We avoided all the confusion about where the rock pitch goes by climbing the entire couloir, including the cornice. By staying on the far left side this goes nicely. Some rock protection is available in the upper c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)
By: Mark Oveson When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: I climbed this wonderful route with Rick Accomazzo this morning. This is perhaps my fourth or fifth time on the route. I'd put it on my list of Top Ten Flatiron routes that I'm comfortable soloing.

We found the ropeless downclimb for the first time this morning. It is not obvious, but once located it is not very difficult. Anyone capable of soloing this route should be capable of doing this downclimb, once you know where you're headed.

From the summit, downclimb 80' to a prominent notch ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Nov 1, 2005

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Comments: Rick Accomazzo and I found the ropeless downclimb off the Fifth Flatiron for the first time this morning. I'll elaborate on the earlier comment about how to do this. From the summit, downclimb 80' to a prominent notch in the northeast ridge. Find a hole that is just the right size and lower yourself through to a comfortable stance on a sloping shelf. A backpack will definitely not go through this hole unless it is removed from its wearer. A 200-pound person will go through. Don't ask me ho... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Mark Oveson When: Sep 13, 2005

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Comments: I climbed this route again this morning (September 13, 2005) with Rick Accomazzo. Kevin is right about the start. There are two overhangs visible from Skunk Canyon. Follow obvious dihedrals up the slabby start out of the canyon heading directly toward the smaller overhang on the right. Traverse left when it is reasonable to do so. The crux move, a single 5.2 step-around, is the only 5th-class climbing on this route, except for the downclimb.

Certain lines on this ridge seem to devolve in... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Indian Peaks : James Peak : Shooting Star
By: Mark Oveson When: Jun 7, 2004

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Comments: Climbed Shooting Star on Saturday 6/5/2004 with Tim "the Client" Ulrich. Snow conditions were soft but still plenty of snow in there. Occasionally we postholed in the lower, flatter section but in the upper section we were able to kick steps as deep as we liked. We were in the couloir from about 9:00 to 10:00 a.m. I think the snow would have been firmer if we had been in a bit earlier. As it was, we brought a rope and rack but felt no need to use it. If the steep upper portion had been ice... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jan 14, 2003

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Comments: This is the easiest and best climb on the Fifth Flatiron. Most of the climb is quite easy, and there are a couple of harder cruxes. The rock is near perfect, and the rating is probably a little high. I'd call it F4, with perhaps two moves of F5 to get over a bulgy step.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron : East Face, North Side (5.3 R)
By: Mark Oveson When: Jan 14, 2003

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Comments: After climbing this route this morning, I can confirm that it is considerably more difficult than the F4 (5.0-5.2) rating given in the Roach guidebook. This is not, in my opinion, the easiest route on this rock. That honor goes to the East Face, South Side route, which is also cleaner and more enjoyable (if not quite as long). I have soloed the South Side route more than once, and would probably not solo this North Side route. A better rating would be F5 (5.4).

Of course, it's always poss... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Mark Oveson When: Aug 8, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch of this route can be intimidating for a beginning leader, as the first protection is 15-20 feet off the ground. The climbing up to this initial pro is solid 5.5. I have seen one party that was unable to lead this first pitch at all. I'd recommend the North Face route, which is slightly harder but much better protected, for leaders who are intimidated by this climb.