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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Swamp Boulders : Town Drunk Aid Route (C1)
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 17, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh please, quit trying to make an issue out of a few "unneccessary bolts".(What bolt is REALLY NECESSARY?)The tourists seemed to enjoy watching us dangle over the creek. I know I enjoyed dangling.For a beginning roof aider, this route is ideal.Yeah, there's some sport routes that are A0-able (Black Monday, Storm Mtn Overhang)...but if I go to the S-curves for a pump, I don't wanna wait an hour for some aid Gumbies to get done.It's outta the way. It's not worthy of free climbing.Every aid clim... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Wedge
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tryga and Garrett...the dynamic duo!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Question Mark Wall Route (5.12b R)
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bobby, shouldn't you also mention that this is perhaps Grade III? After all, it did take you guys SEVERAL hours!!Wish I'd been smart enough to get our camera out while we were coming down the ramp!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Mule Hollow Wall : Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed (5.7)
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also known as "Fly-boy Follies"! -- Mark M.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Triple Overhangs (5.10a)
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: After almost a decade since my first ascent, I finally repeated Triple Overhangs on 7/16/05.To edit my previous remarks above, the 2nd pitch was actually alot of fun! Gear: leave the #4 Camalot at home....1 #3 is as big as you need!I coulda used a couple more large stoppers/small hexes.Adding a 3rd #2 camalot for the 2nd and 4th pitches would have been nice, but the runouts aren't bad since the 5.8 hand jams are so secure.The 10a crux has breath-taking exposure, but has BOM... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 7/18/05, still LOTS of snow in the Cirque!!The flat sandy area in the cirque was still under several feet of snow, camping was best done on the rocky slabs north of the lower end of the cirque boulderfield. After using the Cherry Canyon trail to approach, I would still reccommend the Alpine approach for going UP, though Cherry Canyon offers a gentler descent (assuming you know where you're going).....I'm happy to give beta if anyone needs it!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Who's On First (5.10d)
By: Mark Michaels When: Jan 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can be easily toproped: climb the first pitch of Crescent Crack, and step left to the anchor when you reach the treed ledge, right below the layback at the end of the first pitch.BEEFY bolts, kudos to the FA's!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Pika Paradise (5.8)
By: Mark Michaels When: Sep 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys didn't take a camera for your first trip to Lone Peak!!??? WTF??PS....how's the snow patch in the cirque? What approach did u use? Water? ....Mark
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Eleventh Hour (5.8)
By: Mark Michaels When: Aug 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would call the first pitch 5.7, while the 2nd and 3rd pitches are easily 5.8, with the opportunity for 5.9 variations on the North Face.It would nice to have some fixed gear at belays on this route.While all-clean alpine routes are of course preferred in wilderness areas, the slung blocks and flakes used for belays on this route have very sharp edges, and there aren't many solid gear placements to be had!
Gear wise, I took a 3 Camalot, and only used it once, in a belay. Wished I'd had a seco... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Minimum Security (5.10a R)
By: Mark Michaels When: Jul 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very thin climbing on excellent rock! Deserves rebolting, IMHO.You would want to be at least an 11a slab climber to lead this route in it's present condition. Also, could use a new anchor. Currently, there is one slightly damaged bolt several feet back from the top of the slab, necessitating gear to toprope or belay on this route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Involuntary Release (5.10a)
By: Mark Michaels When: Jul 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Duh, actually, it's a right leaning crack. IE, the other left.support lexdysia research.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Narcolepsy (5.8 R)
By: Mark Michaels When: Jul 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only 2 bolts. Don't fall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook (5.8 R)
By: Mark Michaels When: Jun 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beckey and Kor, say no more!!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall
By: Mark Michaels When: Jun 5, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbers parking on the road at Storm Mountain do not have to pay to walk through the picnic area to climb!This was not the case in year's past! Please be friendly and respectful to the site hosts. Using the restrooms in the picnic are is ENCOURAGED, and does not require a fee. But any use of the picnic or parking area DOES require a fee. If you are just climbing, and for some reason the hosts ask you to pay, don't argue with them! Pay the $2 (walk in) or leave with a smile!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : La Creme De Shorts (5.9)
By: Mark Michaels When: Jun 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Vince! This climb may spank some unsusupecting 5.9 leaders (like it did me a couple years ago). Be ready to crank from the start. Really too short to get 2 stars, but better than a 1 star, so what the hell.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R)
By: Mark Michaels When: May 22, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo by John Glime is me starting the crux pitch, with Vicente Planelles on belay.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pentapitch (5.8)
By: Mark Michaels When: May 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Recently repeated this climb....and had so much fun! What a beautiful spot....away from the crowds....views of the Pawn....sound of water and birds....really peaceful, not always the case at the Gate!
Regarding the last pitch....yes, it's a bit thin and spicy without the pin. But I wiggled in 2 small stoppers where the pin would be, and equalized them....somewhat awkward, but probably as strong as an old fixed pin!One more move and you get nice microcams.
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