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Member Since: Aug 31, 2001
Last Visit: May 23, 2013
Contact Mark J. Nelson


Point Rank: # 1,755
Total Points: 341
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark J. Nelson been climbing?










Contributions


All 88 | Routes 24 | Areas 5 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts | Stars 39 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Pathetic Dome

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area

Jan 9, 2003

Cockroach Crag

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area

Jan 9, 2003

Indian Palisades Corridor

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Indian Cove Campground

Nov 5, 2002

Echo Cove - North Side

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Cove

Nov 5, 2002

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Photo of Mark Nelson by Fran Fierst, January 1, 2003. <br /> <br />It was windy that day.

Photo of Mark Nelson by Fran Fierst, January 1, 2003. It was windy that day.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Aiguille de Joshua Tree (ak... (5.5 X)

Jan 9, 2003

This is me leading the cruxy, 5.9 moves past the third bolt of the traverse. Jerry Verbeck on belay.

This is me leading the cruxy, 5.9 moves past the third bolt of the traverse. Jerry Verbeck on belay.

WY : Vedauwoo : ... : Drop Zone (5.10a)

Sep 4, 2001

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : The Minstrel (5.11a)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jun 6, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: It may well be "The Minstrel." Note, however, that "Mistral" is much more in keeping thematically with both "Riviera" and "Sea Breeze." Since Rossiter lists it as "Mistral," it's probably useful to list it as an alias for folks that are cross referencing MP to printed guides, and for "Mistral" to appear in the text of this page so it shows up in a search.

I didn't find it difficult to keep this route and Sea Breeze separate--I pretty much climbed the bolted line, and so stayed clearly (though... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : Jackson Creek Dome : Mr. Chips (5.9-)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 4, 2009

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Comments: If I remember correctly, the two cruxy sequences were shortly before the first and second bolts, both with ground fall potential.

Check the conditions, and take some nuts or rivet hangers with you. Unless it's been cleaned up (it's been several years since I was there), some of the bolts, including the second pitch anchor, are missing hangers.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Mar 20, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Clarification of A/C's post on 5/27/2004: the fixed RURP is still there, complete with faded shoestring. As A/C pointed out, it can be skipped entirely with a pretty easy reach from a fixed angle below the roof to the fixed angle above the roof. BUT: it's not completely obvious from below and right of that second pin that the eye is broken, and it won't necessarily be tied off already when you get there.

I had a pretty stressful moment when I made the reach, transitioned to the angle, took a... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: This is the outside face of the wall that forms the southern edge of Echo Cove. Bartlett describes this area as "South Echo Cove Rock - South Face."


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Stand and Deliver (5.10a)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 13, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great route. Beware, however, the groundfall potential between the second and third bolts. The climbing there is significantly easier than down below, but it's still not a fall you really want to take.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Bishop Jaggers (5.9)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: I climbed Bishop's Jaggers on Labor Day in 2001. I was swarmed by bees twice on the traditional first pitch (half of the first pitch from the description.)

Though it makes for a good story, and the bees were only low on the route (before the difficult climbing), it's still a useful cautionary tale, particularly for those who react more strongly than I do to bee stings.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor : Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry... (5.7)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: I'm pretty sure this is aka "Chivalry's Not Dead."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Indian Palisades Corridor
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 13, 2003

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Comments: From my memory, and notes I made in my guidebooks:

Vogel describes Eyes of Amber as "ascends the brown face 25 feet left of Water Moccasin" and Chivalry's Not Dead as a "three-bolt route 15 feet right of Eyes of Amber," implying that it is only ten feet from Water Moccasin. He also describes a toprope (Snakes in the Grass, 5.9) between Chivalry's Not Dead and Water Moccasin.

Bartlett describes Water Moccasin as "20 feet right of Eyes of Amber," and lists a toprope (Snakes in the Grass, 5.8+)... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 9, 2003

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Comments: Seemed like the first two bolts each protected crux sequences like Mike described. In both cases, you can stand safely to make the clip, figure out the sequence to get you over the bulge, and be comfortably through the crux by the time your feet are above the bolt.

Mixed reactions seem to be the order of the day: I absolutely loved this route, and my partner would have been just as happy if I had cleaned on rap and we had both walked away.

I tend to go with Vogel's 5.9+ rating, rather than Ba... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Direct South Face (5.9)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 9, 2003

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Comments: Don't let the "burly 5.9" description intimidate you. The gear is good (for the crux sequence, anyway), and the move can be done comfortably even by those of us that don't work out. The crux is figuring out how to get your feet into position so you can push through instead of pull.

I fall in between one and three on the pitch count: it's nice to do one pitch to the single bolt/gear anchor, and a second to the summit.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Nomad Dome : Willard (5.7)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Jan 9, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Willard was fun. If you find the couple of runouts intimidating, they both protect easily with small tricams (0.5 through 1.5, or pink through brown).

I was not particularly motivated to climb the short, much easier second pitch; the rappel descent from the first pitch anchors is quite convenient. (And yes, they are rappel anchors, not just bolt hangers.)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Nov 4, 2002

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Comments: Combining P2 and P3 left us with 15-20 feet remaining on a 60m rope. A set of stoppers could come in handy halfway up P1, but the route is quite reasonable without them.




Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Mike's Books (5.6)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Nov 4, 2002

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Comments: The second pitch is slightly offwidth; I suggest racking to a #4 Camalot. The 5.6 rating is quite reasonable, but it will sure feel more difficult if you're only carrying up to 3 inch gear...


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Drop Zone (5.10a)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Sep 4, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A minor correction: Drop Zone and Cold Finger do not share a common anchor. There are separate two-bolt chain anchors at the top of each climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Lemmings (5.8)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Aug 31, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Additional info, especially for when the Wind Tower is crowded:

- The "real" first pitch of Lemmings starts down and right from the end of the ledge where Recon starts. This is the longest, and in my opinion the nicest, way to the big ledge. Approach not from the Wind Tower trail; instead come up from the Streamside trail.

- There is a beautiful, improbable 5.6 line that goes up to the right of the West Overhang overhang. Follow the easily protected, thin crack to the right of Wes... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Mother 1 (5.7+)
By: Mark J. Nelson When: Aug 31, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Joe, and add the following:

- Yes, you can climb to the anchors on the top of the Parabolic Slab. I think this is the nicer finish. It can be done with a 50m rope. Just remember a solid directional in the top of the crack before you break up and right.

- The rappel off of the back of the Parabolic Slab can be done with a single, 50m rope.

- The offwidth section is not terribly difficult, but it's long enough that a handful of big pieces are comforting. Nothing big above the ob... more >>


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Bishop Jaggers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : South Platte : ... : The Dome

Black Magic 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall

Hole 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall

Birdland 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Brass Wall

Dappled Mare 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid...

Ragged Edges 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Ragged Edges Area

Lotta Balls 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall

Plan F 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Ragged Edges Area

A Man in Every Pot 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cannibal Crag

Cranny 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Trashcan Rock - West Face

The Sound of One Shoe Tapping 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Cove - North Side

Fool's Gold 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Conan's Corridor

Bosch Blanket Bingo 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Riviera

Tiptoe 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Trashcan Rock - West Face

Elbows of Mac and Ronnie 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cannibal Crag

Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Cockroach Crag

W. A. C. 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Cove - North Side

Bonzo Dog Band 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Cove - South Face

Sea Breeze 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Riviera

R. A. F. 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Cove - North Side

Topless Etiquette 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Riviera

Mac and Ronnie in Cheese 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cannibal Crag

What's Eating You 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cannibal Crag

Abandonment 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Riviera

New Lease on Life 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Riviera

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