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Mammoth El Cap


Member Since: Aug 13, 2004
Last Visit: Jan 12, 2014
Contact Mark J Gain


Point Rank: # 3,459
Total Points: 136
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Mark J Gain been climbing?










Contributions


All 80 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 14 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts | Stars 26 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: Mark J Gain When: Jan 12, 2014

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Comments: Eric, I climbed it in the early 90's and dont recall Pins but mabye I was on another climb although I am looking at the book and it seems to be the same route, for me it was the bolted crack, and looking at the book it states FA: RR,BM, but someone told me when I lived in Sierra Vista,that HS did it with gear only and was the FA just dont recall pins, anywho... Could never get Skid Mark, just too hard for me I guess... I met you in'91 or so , thank you for all your work on Lemmon!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Cosmic Trigger (5.12d)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Your right rtm!!!, I actually meant to put d not b, dislexic I guess... Still love the area :) but darnnit, dont know how to change rating either...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Graceland : Dick Van Dyke (aka Elvis is... (5.10c)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Was this called "Elvis is Everywhere"? Fun route!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor... (5.10d)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Super duper route BTW :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor... (5.10d)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Rich, Was thinking of getting out there soon, and your info. helps, to make me go and camp out ontop of BigMo for 1 yr. and see what happens, just kidding... I dont get into that cr*p... There is always a way down but there is always an easier and safer way too, thats what gets me, what are two bolts but two bolts, whats safer two bolts or gear? Sorry for the rant!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Tiers for Fears (5.10d R)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: This was a favotite of mine as warm up to what I was really there for, although have not been on it since 1998-1999, prior to getting on "I have (had) the touch" and Cosmic. I just feel at home there... Such a nice setting! and great climbs with no-one around, like the .10 on the side of the pillar, soooo much fun, gosh, I gotta get back, if not just to cuise and hang in the cabin below :) What made it "had" the touch anyways? (I heard a flake or sumting broke) I thought it was hard in the 90... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : This is Only a Test (5.12)
By: Mark J Gain When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: Fun start to a cool route, but being a little more on the taller side I found it into the lower grades, of .12's and no gimmy even with some height as the book mentions. I would not know what I would confirm it as, of course it does not matter much anyways but a fun variation.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Dog Day Afternoon (5.10b)
By: Mark J Gain When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: I have led this route a few times, never bringing pro "because" it is a "sport climb" from what I read in my guides from the '86 guide that told me "Five bolts protect good, steep face climbing" to my most recent '92 guide, and my buddies in that were all just "bring some draws", "no worries"..., all stating well protected face climb with bolts, but on my excursion today, in very cold finger weather for me and sans lead head, I brought some pro for the horizontal because having led it several ti... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Lost Pencil : Indian Giver (5.11- R)
By: Mark J Gain When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Scared me... But I lived to tell about it :)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Lost Pencil : Number Two (aka the Weasel ... (5.12b)
By: Mark J Gain When: Aug 20, 2012

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Comments: Real fun route!


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Frankenjura
By: Mark J Gain When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: The Frankenjura is a spectacular place to climb but you want a car to get around. The crags are spread out much like Fountainbleu (France) and/or Arco (Italy). Although I prefer Arco and Finale in Italy the Frankenjura has a tremendous amount of s;ightly shorter and forested climbing than Italy. A must to Visit if climbing in Europe along with Spain, France/Dolomites Italy etc...


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Super Nova (5.11a)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: Moderatly fun route. The other routes in the canyon are netter quality. IMO


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Common Bond of Circumstance (5.9)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Another fun face route on this secluded wall. Well protected with just a tiny bit of hollow flakes up high. Thanks to the people that put in the effort to est. this area!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Belief in Proportion to the... (5.10a)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Great fun and I saw some horizontal gear placements between higher bolts. I really liked the solitude of the area.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Flight Path Area : Ignore the Man Behind the S... (5.6)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: Super fun! definately worth the walk which is a bit longer than 30 minutes as the cairns become hard to spot going up through the red rock bands just head up and you will find it. Great Pro and to a Great anchor rap 1 60 meter, the route is right on 90-95 feet long, as is the whole wall and there is an awesome looking overhanging crack just above "Sex in the Scrub Oak" (corner to the left of Man Behind) to chains that looks real good, anyone know what that is?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Sunnyside Crags : Cold September Corner (5.8)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 23, 2011

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Comments: I think its longer than 60 Ft. Great route and one of the funnest pitches I have done in RR. And to have done it with Karen just made it that more special! Roofs, good jams, stemming, face climbing etc... its all there in one long pitch! Cool cave to hang out in at the belay too. The fixed #3 cam in the first roof is there for good, its trashed anyways but if you see it you know your on the correct route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: This route took me a few tries before I could get it, but being the first route on the wall and Suzuki doing it with cams? nut? only is incredible, please correct me if I am wrong on that account, but the route is so technical and just so fun just as all the others on the wall, another classic along with Tsunami.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Holey Moley (5.11d)
By: Mark J Gain When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: I had the luck and some great friends to cheer me on, to OS this great climb and still to this day find it to be a favorite for me on Lemmon (besides Lizards (Marm. direct) and and and and etc...). I still go back here and there to give it a go just because this wall has so many great sport routes and some good history that it keeps a calling. The rock is great and the routes are terrific. A must do!!!!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : I Have The Touch (5.12b)
By: Mark J Gain When: Dec 26, 2005

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Comments: Note: Height dependant...I Have The Touch vs. Sensory Deprivation.

Edit: I Read my notes on this climb and it took me almost the same amount of time to climb this than Cosmic Trigger, but this was in 1998 or 99 so things might have changed on the routes but memory certainly has, but I think the main thing for me was the fact that in my mind it (IHTT) was .12d as in the guide I had so there was certainly a Mind Game I was playing...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Rig... : Red Snapper (5.11a)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: Felt harder than 5.11a, start moves. But what do I know.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : White Cliffs of Dover : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef... : Good Housekeeping (5.11a)
By: Mark J Gain When: Apr 17, 2005

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Comments: Felt like 5.10 to me. Good rock and cool arete.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - South Face : Iron Maiden (5.11d)
By: Mark J Gain When: Mar 1, 2005

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Comments: Interesting climb, going to the first set of anchors from the last piece of good pro is spiceay...With some traffic this climb will blossom.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollercoaster (5.11b)
By: Mark J Gain When: Oct 29, 2004

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Comments: I was out to climb Rollerball several years ago and noticed that the TR to the left had just been bolted, I thought cool, it looks like a fun 5.11, I started to climb and realized that this thing felt a lot harder than 5.11b, maybe I was just way off my game that day, but what do you think? Roof was hard too, lot of variety, but fun even though I was falling.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen...
By: Mark J Gain When: Oct 29, 2004

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Comments: The left route on the Lost Pencil is a good route, 5.11 or so. Well bolted and fun edging, if thats whats fun? it is to me...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : The Bendix Claws (5.11a)
By: Mark J Gain When: Aug 13, 2004

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Comments: I agree with the last comment, a great route but just as hard as many of the 5.11b/c's I have climbed in Josh. Pro is funky after bottom bolt but then is good to the top. A real pumper!


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