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Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC


Member Since: Nov 29, 2007
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Mark E Dixon

Mark E Dixon
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Point Rank: # 2,195
Total Points: 320
Last Year: 121
Last 30 Days: 13
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2070 | Routes 6 | Areas | Photos 42 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 44 | Posts 1920 | Stars 37 | Ratings 19
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Slender Babe (5.12d)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Deserves more attention. Fun movement.
Definitely cleaning up. There are still some fragile holds though, so don't break them!
No serious rope drag issues if you use shoulder length runners on bolts 1 and 2 and the anchor of Little Kitten and on bolt 1 of Slender Babe.
After topping out Little Kitten, you are invisible to your belayer until you get to the third clip on Slender Babe. However, the chance of falling here is really low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Forbidden Fruit Crag : High Test (5.12-)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Seems chipped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Hood Surfing In Socks (5.11b/c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I think this route is going to be really hard for folks shorter and with less reach than me. (5'6" +1 ape.)

As for on/off, IMHO avoiding the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face? makes an ascent pretty pointless.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Monkey Puzzle (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: There are currently 6 bolts.

The 5th bolt, just over the lip of the roof is placed so that the bolt-side carabiner is cross loaded over the edge.

I added a quicklink and a Fixe ring so that you can now clip the 5th without worrying about biner breakage. It might also come in handy for strategic retreats but isn't in place for that purpose.

If someone was really inspired, he/she could replace the ring with another beefy SS quicklink, but it hardly seems worth the effort. I would have used two... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Terrace
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: There are three new routes on the Terrace on a face just downhill from the Arete.

From L to R:

10-/10ish right-facing corner. 2 bolts, then option for midsized nut before runut to anchors. Runout is easy though. Hard to lower without getting rope into cracks.

5.12ish on L side of face below corner. 5 bolts to same anchor.
We started up the route to the right for a couple of moves then moved back left around first bolt. Reasonably clean. Nice movement, esp. up to bolt 3.

5.11ish on R side of ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: I recently replaced the dogbone on the 6th bolt. The rest looked OK to me. The final bolt is missing a draw - probably better not hanging one here as it would get pretty wind whipped.

If the route is going to be continuously equipped, I'd vote for cable draws.


Location: Mark E Dixon : Avatars : Photo
By: Mark E Dixon When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Long story, but in the end just another idiosyncrasy. You should see my tie-in knot.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Pet Semetary (5.11b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Bolts 4 and 5 are getting worse. However, you can get a good large nut above 4 and a good #2 1/2 Friend above 5 (yellow Camalot?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Hea...
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: The Mesa Trail has been rerouted a bit. After crossing the stream, you will have two quick short switchbacks, then a longer leg to a sharp right turning switchback. There's a big tree and several nice sitting rocks on a flat platform. Go past this spot and into Skunk Canyon. On the way to Ridge 1, it seems better to follow the trail on the south side of the creek until you are nearly below the ridge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Maybe not quite as good as Angel's Way but still a nice scramble.

On the way to Like Heaven, there's a deep diagonal cleft that turns into a cool tunnel that pops you out on the west face. 10 feet of exposed but easy 4/5th class gets you back on the ridge en route to Heaven.

Didn't think the descent was all that bad. Mhaupt's description was right on.

To descend from the summit, we went north of Hillbilly Rock, then down to a notch between HB and the next ridge east. Went left around the ne... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Draws are in good shape, except that the rope end biner on the last clip below the roof is getting a little grooved. Might make sense to extend that draw, as I think it is getting worn when people (like me) fall off the egg a bunch of times. Extending would make it easier to pull through the iron cross move too.
Regardless, I'll change it out next time I'm up there.

Didn't get above the egg, so can't comment on the last draw and the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: I have no idea which block Paphs was wiggling. There is a block between bolts 5 and 6 (IIRC) that is cracked all the way around, but I couldn't make it move today.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel : Academic Freedom (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: A little friable at the start but better as you get higher.
Tricky crux at 3rd bolt and not over till you reach the slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Sick For Sleeping (5.11+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Only 7 bolts plus something for the anchors.

A nice warm-up, worth doing.

Still a few loose holds, especially at the horizontal just before the crux, but they are avoidable.

Cleaning by lowering off the anchors didn't seem excessively abrasive to me. Maybe the anchors have been moved?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Just Another Boy's Climb (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: In your face once you leave the ledge, good value for the grade!

Works great as a single pitch, helpful to put a very long sling on the intermediate belay anchor (I used one shoulder length sling plus a long quickdraw) and another long (shoulder length) sling on the 1st bolt off the ledge.

There are two pins in the final traverse, both look solid, but are hard to clip without potentially cross-loading the carabiner. The first is at the start, the last is just before the anchors and is not real... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Rubberneck (5.12-)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: I would have to disagree. I don't actually know what hold you are referring to left of the last bolt, but none of the holds seem manufactured to me. I dynoed straight up, maybe a little rightish, from the jug just below the last bolt.
Getting to the crimp by bolt 2 was very reachy, at 5'6" - ape +1, I had to use some bad sidepulls and a little bounce. My taller friend could keep his hand on the low rail.
The route to the left however...looked like several enhanced holds.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Arena (aka Contender Wa... : Pornucopia (5.12)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Nice climb, would get steady traffic at a more popular crag.
A little friable at the start, but the holds are solid through the crux. Seriously thin feet!
I didn't finish beyond the 4th bolt - is that traverse section better than it looks?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Anomaly : East Face/Anomaly (5.0)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: We headed too far uphill from the Royal Arch and wandered around in the snow looking for the Anomaly. If anything, the base of this feature is a little lower on the hillside than the top of the Royal Arch and is mostly just a traverse south.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Hammerhead : Yodeling Moves (5.0)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: Couldn't find the rap anchor today. You might want to take along some extra webbing if you plan to rappel.

Maybe I just missed it though. YMMV.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: We watched a bunch of big (i.e. fatal) rocks rumble down the gully between Blob and Bitty today. Turns out a party was rapping the route to the right of TYTR, and the first person down was standing on a tabletop-sized flake to untangle the rope when it collapsed out from under him. Nobody injured (except their packs and clothes), but maybe keep an extra keen eye for looseness if climbing up there.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Tenmile Range : Tenmile Traverse (4th)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: If you do a car shuttle and leave a car at the Peak 9 retaurant, plan for about a two hour round trip from the Frisco parking lot to set things up.
It is also fairly easy to get lost, especially at night. Google Earth is your friend. You are looking for Co Rd 751, which seems to begin from the back of the parking lot at Peak 9 base.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Take Five (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: You wouldn't want to fall clipping the third bolt, but I didn't have any problems falling between bolts 2 and 3!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Little Blob : Lost and Found (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: Spoiler alert-

It's helpful to clip the 6th draw (on the left face of the little corner) with just a biner, instead of a quickdraw.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Wall of Voodoo
By: Mark E Dixon When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Visited this crag for the first time today and came in from above. The gully is filled with loose rock, possibly worse than it has been in the past due to last month's flood. If you approach directly up the gully, please be mindful of the road immediately below.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Raven's Brew (5.11d)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Do yourself a favor and tape your right hand at the base of your little finger.
Pretty fun route.


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