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Rock Climbing Photo: At the BRC


Member Since: Nov 29, 2007
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Mark E Dixon

Mark E Dixon
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Point Rank: # 1,644
Total Points: 450
Last Year: 251
Last 30 Days: 61
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2229 | Routes 13 | Areas 1 | Photos 49 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 54 | Posts 2041 | Stars 47 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: Mark E Dixon When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Cleaner and more solid than it looks. Worth getting on if you have a small rack of cams along.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The easiest approach might be:
walk east from the parking until you reach a 40 MPH sign on the north side of the road. Scramble up the hillside to the cliff near the base of Lockjaw.

Follow the cliff base west, with one more annoying steep uphill dirt scramble to reach the area around Cobra.

Continue west more easily along the base to reach the Shady Boys and Girls.

Be aware that while initial cruxes are ok, the upper slabs on these western routes aren't that shady in July... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Cobra (5.12a) : Photo
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: 12a called Cobra. FA: K. Capps, 2013.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Heat Wave (5.9+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Seems to have cleaned up enough to be worthy.

Still a few loose holds and the granular edges up high may continue to evolve.

There's scope for different betas, giving different difficulties, enough to explain the range reported.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 15, 2016

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Comments: Maybe the nicest route at the crag.

I used a #1 1/2 Friend and a #0.5 Camalot. You could place TCUs in various spots as well, if desired.

Going left at the tree/twig is really fun amongst the pegmatite, highly recommended, but beware of breakable crystals.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Melancholy Man (5.11b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jul 1, 2016

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Comments: Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kashmir (5.10+)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: The bolts are all fine as of 6/22/16.
This route takes a weird swerve left at the top but all on much easier ground.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Kayak for Sale (5.10c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: A cam is nice up high but not really needed if you are reasonably solid at the grade. So don't feel like you have to skip the route if you didn't bring gear.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Big Tuna (5.11a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 16, 2016

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Comments: We put rings on the Metolius rap hangers today.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Pretty easy to rappel the north face with a single rope.
First from chains on ridge to anchors at base of third pitch of Sea of Joy. Sort of a hanging stance.
Then to ground.
Definitely works with a 70, might work with a 60.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Slender Babe (5.12d)
By: Mark E Dixon When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Deserves more attention. Fun movement.
Definitely cleaning up. There are still some fragile holds though, so don't break them!
No serious rope drag issues if you use shoulder length runners on bolts 1 and 2 and the anchor of Little Kitten and on bolt 1 of Slender Babe.
After topping out Little Kitten, you are invisible to your belayer until you get to the third clip on Slender Babe. However, the chance of falling here is really low.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Forbidden Fruit Crag : High Test (5.12-)
By: Mark E Dixon When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: Seems chipped.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Hood Surfing In Socks (5.11b/c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: May 23, 2016

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Comments: I think this route is going to be really hard for folks shorter and with less reach than me. (5'6" +1 ape).

As for on/off, IMHO avoiding the two small crimps on the bolt line up to the terrible dish on the right and the undercling crimp on the left, using only feet on the face? makes an ascent pretty pointless.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Child Free Zone (aka Parkwa... : Monkey Puzzle (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: There are currently 6 bolts.

The 5th bolt, just over the lip of the roof is placed so that the bolt-side carabiner is cross loaded over the edge.

I added a quicklink and a Fixe ring so that you can now clip the 5th without worrying about biner breakage. It might also come in handy for strategic retreats but isn't in place for that purpose.

If someone was really inspired, he/she could replace the ring with another beefy SS quicklink, but it hardly seems worth the effort. I would have used two... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Terrace
By: Mark E Dixon When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: There are three new routes on the Terrace on a face just downhill from the Arete.

From L to R:

10-/10ish right-facing corner. 2 bolts, then option for midsized nut before runut to anchors. Runout is easy though. Hard to lower without getting rope into cracks.

5.12ish on L side of face below corner. 5 bolts to same anchor.
We started up the route to the right for a couple of moves then moved back left around first bolt. Reasonably clean. Nice movement, esp. up to bolt 3.

5.11ish on R side of ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: I recently replaced the dogbone on the 6th bolt. The rest looked OK to me. The final bolt is missing a draw - probably better not hanging one here as it would get pretty wind whipped.

If the route is going to be continuously equipped, I'd vote for cable draws.


Location: Mark E Dixon : Avatars : Photo
By: Mark E Dixon When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Long story, but in the end just another idiosyncrasy. You should see my tie-in knot.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Pet Semetary (5.11b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Dec 8, 2015

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Comments: Bolts 4 and 5 are getting worse. However, you can get a good large nut above 4 and a good #2 1/2 Friend above 5 (yellow Camalot?).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Hea...
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: The Mesa Trail has been rerouted a bit. After crossing the stream, you will have two quick short switchbacks, then a longer leg to a sharp right turning switchback. There's a big tree and several nice sitting rocks on a flat platform. Go past this spot and into Skunk Canyon. On the way to Ridge 1, it seems better to follow the trail on the south side of the creek until you are nearly below the ridge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Stairway to Heaven (5.3)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Maybe not quite as good as Angel's Way but still a nice scramble.

On the way to Like Heaven, there's a deep diagonal cleft that turns into a cool tunnel that pops you out on the west face. 10 feet of exposed but easy 4/5th class gets you back on the ridge en route to Heaven.

Didn't think the descent was all that bad. Mhaupt's description was right on.

To descend from the summit, we went north of Hillbilly Rock, then down to a notch between HB and the next ridge east. Went left around the ne... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Draws are in good shape, except that the rope end biner on the last clip below the roof is getting a little grooved. Might make sense to extend that draw, as I think it is getting worn when people (like me) fall off the egg a bunch of times. Extending would make it easier to pull through the iron cross move too.
Regardless, I'll change it out next time I'm up there.

Didn't get above the egg, so can't comment on the last draw and the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Vasodilator (5.13a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: I have no idea which block Paphs was wiggling. There is a block between bolts 5 and 6 (IIRC) that is cracked all the way around, but I couldn't make it move today.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : The Grendel : Academic Freedom (5.12b)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: A little friable at the start but better as you get higher.
Tricky crux at 3rd bolt and not over till you reach the slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Sick For Sleeping (5.11c)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 15, 2015

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Comments: Only 7 bolts plus something for the anchors.

A nice warm-up, worth doing.

Still a few loose holds, especially at the horizontal just before the crux, but they are avoidable.

Cleaning by lowering off the anchors didn't seem excessively abrasive to me. Maybe the anchors have been moved?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Just Another Boy's Climb (5.12a)
By: Mark E Dixon When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: In your face once you leave the ledge, good value for the grade!

Works great as a single pitch, helpful to put a very long sling on the intermediate belay anchor (I used one shoulder length sling plus a long quickdraw) and another long (shoulder length) sling on the 1st bolt off the ledge.

There are two pins in the final traverse, both look solid, but are hard to clip without potentially cross-loading the carabiner. The first is at the start, the last is just before the anchors and is not real... more >>


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