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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Moby Dike (5.10+ R)
By: Marc Beverly When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, guys. I hate to be the bearer of this news, but...the Original Route has been freed...to all 3 summits in a day, and I KNOW I don't have the FFA.
Ormes' Rib goes at 5.10c r/x to the North Summit, although I'm not sure if he did if free or not, but I did...multiple times. The variation that most people take is the Traverse Route 5.9 that takes some rappels from the notch before heading up Ormes' Rib proper, then heads into California Gully in order to avoid Ormes' Rib (the actual FA of Sh... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Seamingly Hard (5.10b)
By: Marc Beverly When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a point of clarification:
The bolted route is "Seamingly Drunk," a combination of the "Seamingly Hard" start, and the "Drunken Master" finish. The line was retro bolted after the 4th known ground fall and subsequent rescue ensued in 2009. Ground fall potential is far less and the quality line now exists. The rating of the bolted line is .10b/c
Cheers,
Marc Beverly
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : The Ramp Area : Hummingbird (5.8 PG13)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good suggestion. I'll ask Tony to change it.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Roadside Attraction Rock : (09) Crucible (5.8)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Marc Beverly.
A new bolt is in at the bottom per request. So, you can do the harder start (left) or the easier start (right) and still clip.
I'm not sure why I had to go back and put in a second set of anchor clips after you guys replaced the anchor that was only a year or two old ?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Chilly Willy Wall : Donkey Show (5.10c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another route that was retro bolted for the better. Great climbing.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In a sense, it's good that this route got retro bolted (it was a trad lead and had been so for many years). More people do it now and it takes some pressure off the other nearby similar rated climbs. Perhaps its the ethic of the day and so maybe Forest will also be retro bolted and there will be another line that people will do more often.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (02) Flake Out (5.11b/c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, a little history (and education) on the bolts and anchors:
The bolts are glue-ins and stronger than any expansion bolt at LC. The reason people were sketched out that the bolts were spinning is that you can't tighten glue-ins until the glue is dry. You have to go back and tighten them later. I wasn't able to get back right away and tighten them the next day.
As for the smaller links, they do hold 800 lbF each. They only need to hold body weight. Multiply that by two, that's 1600 lbF total. ... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (08) A La Verga (5.9)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't know where you guys are getting 5.9 on this ? I've never felt like it was harder than 5.8
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Spectator Wall
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...on the Spectator Wall.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : The Broken Arrows : Perp Area : Never Forget (5.9)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ya, guess that's why we put it up. You should come out and put up some stuff, Mark.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : First Tunnel
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: They are about 100m from the first tunnel, down a bit farther than you were looking.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (AKA: The Notch) : Grotto End (L. Side) : Ojo (5.12b)
By: Marc Beverly When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called merely "Ojo" as per those who put it up, not "...del Diablo"
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Baltz is the man! Saddle wedges, T-tons, hexes and nuts ? Sweet.
Ratings? Hard to tell, but think Jason is right about the crux(s) being harder for tall people, it's the nature of pulling crunchy overhangs. It pays to have some stretch on the 5.9 pitch though.
- ** In addition, I think Jason meant to say that the 5.10 bolted finish is 60m, not 60 feet, but it is quite good although it's also quite runout (50 feet past your last bolt - could go for 100+ feet or more on slab, so just don't fall)...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : The Ramp Area : Rudder (5.7)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amy,
I used Orlando's photo (sorry and thanks, Orlando) to show how to get there and out. Use Runnel Runner to rap in and climb out on and you'll never have to do that gnar hike out again ! I posted it on the Rudder page.
Best,
Marc
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Slot : Global Warming (5.11c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line and pros better than Heat Stroke. Quality.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Hole in the Wall : Body Nazi (5.11-)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool - thanks for the clarification, Kirk.
It's a great line - I didn't feel like extra pro was needed anywhere. I did put a piece in, but then took it out because it added rope drag. I drug up an unnecessary trad rack on this one. Me thinks just draws and anchor slings.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block : Bouldering Cave : Lock Down (5.11+ M12)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK - It's been cleaned up enough for sport climbing. It goes at about .11 something. There's lots of clean air so have fun and watch your rope.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Big Block
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll TRY to not be a jerk, but I'm going to be. LEAVE FIXED GEAR ALONE. That goes for ALL crags in this state. It's put there for the enjoyment of all climbers, not just you. Replace it only as needed. If climbers can't be good stewards and regulate ourselves, someone else will wind up doing it for us.
This is the third time in two years that I've replaced gear at Big Block. Obviously, you won't identify yourself because you're a thief, so I'll have to post this here. My apologies to the 99.999... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow - you guys are gluttin for punishment. Just start off at the Piedra Lisa Trail to the Rincon ridge, go up the Knife Edge, and then descend the fixed ropes on the SE end of the Shield to gain the Ramp back down to your car. Do this when the area is open to climbing.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You guys have been doing a great job up there ! The climbing is great and it's a nice venue to boot. Thanks for hard work (I know what it's like). Hope to climb there more.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (07) Cheap Sunglasses (5.11c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The glue-ins add and extra bit of confidence since the rock is a bit soft underneath. Good, long "go for it crux." It may be the only other route in NM with completely glued-in bolts aside from Wooden Jesus at Palomas. Quite Euro !
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels : Second Tunnel : Banzai (5.10c)
By: Marc Beverly When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name of the climb is Banzai and is rated at 5.10b; This was Ian's first route that he put up I guess, so give him a break. I've led it on gear, and the grade might be a bit harder, but it's GILMAN. The rock sucks here and people think it's a trad area. Whatever.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Battleship Rock
By: Marc Beverly When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure when you climbed it, but there's always been bolts on this route. There's old bongs and pitons as well. It's likely the most classic route in the entire valley.
Brian Pletta and I had to have several discussions and meetings with the USFS just to keep this (and several other places) open to climbing. As long as nobody gets hurt, and climbers have respect for the area and other user groups, there shouldn't be any issues.
As for other climbs, there's loads of them, but they aren't pos... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : ... : Photo
By: Marc Beverly When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember leading up this (on gear - whatever it was worth) to gain Great White. The flakes were pure death on the way up to where this first "X" is, but on easy climbing (5.9ish). Hammerhead's addition definitely only crosses this line and takes away nothing from someone being able to go for the "R" rating. It's a good line, but not worth getting hurt on.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower
By: Marc Beverly When: Jul 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last pitch of the Watchtower (above 7th and Excalibur finish) is extraordinarily loose. I pulled off perhaps 12-14 tons of loose rock with surprising ease that would have killed a belay at the top bolted rap anchor (second rap station from the top). There still may be some lingering gargoyles in there.
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