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Stemming out to clip the second bolt on Hangman's Climb.


Member Since: Jan 25, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Marc Kajut


Point Rank: # 770
Total Points: 777
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18 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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Contributions


All (183) | Routes (28) | Areas (12) | Photos (62) | Comments (7) | Posts (6) | Stars (60) | Ratings (8)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : The Owl (5.8)
By: Marc Kajut When: Oct 20, 2011

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Comments: So despite what some will say... this route is an easier route with some fall potential one or two moves off the ground before you pull the roof (how you choose to do this determines whether or not this climb is an easy 5.7 or hard 5.8 for you.) Make sure to place good pro so that when you fall the first time you try this you gain some confidence in your placements! Cheers, MK


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Leonids (5.9) : Photo
By: Marc Kajut When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: Yeah, we thought it would be easier without cumbersome climbing shoes.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Sickle Crack Boulder : Sickle Crack (5.8+)
By: Marc Kajut When: Mar 27, 2007

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Comments: I'll suggest a 5.8+ as I personally think it's harder than 5.8 but easier than 5.9; however, since '96 many other climbers have climbed SC at 5.9 and accepted Kennedy's upgrade from Brueckner's published rating. Consensus says...


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.1)
By: Marc Kajut When: Sep 2, 2006

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Comments: The natural line of this climb should take you through some 5.4 to 5.6 movements. I'd highly recommend finishing WMW via the direct 5.7 line. Highly enjoyable and protectable.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Jaws Boulder Area : Girl's Climb (5.10c/d)
By: Marc Kajut When: Feb 15, 2006

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Comments: I second the notion that this is a leadable climb, but I'd suggest that the leader "pink point" the lead by pre-placing a full-length runner (or a double tied off at an appropriate length) off the bolt to protect the thin crack section... it's pretty thin.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Easy Rider (5.7)
By: Marc Kajut When: Feb 12, 2006

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Comments: This route is probably one of the most popular climbs in Mission Gorge. It's very well protected and is a great "first lead of the day". The crux move is after the third bolt at the route's steepest section. Most climbers transition left, avoiding a difficult mantle move, then move back right once gaining the ledge. Be careful downclimbing from the anchor on the backside of the formation if leading this route.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Photo
By: Marc Kajut When: Jan 25, 2006

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Comments: Photo taken by C. Rasmussen