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Location: CO : Media Release - WildyX In D...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations guys! Best of luck.
Malcolm
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Location: CO : Michael Kennedy Named Edito...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations Michael,
I can't imagine a better man for the job.
Mal
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Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uhhhh... What is the Denver Climber's Coalition and what do you do?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall
By: Malcolm Daly When: Dec 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.
RIP
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kirra,
The rap is fixed from the top to the bottom. The whole purpose is to get people away from the powerhouse and make an independent rap line to the ground. Not sure of the specifics of the directional but will find out. I'm talking to Steve Johnson later today.
Mal
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bridalveil Falls Open to Climbing
Thanks to the efforts of Steve Johnson and the Telluride climbing community, Bridalveil Falls will be opened to climbing on December 1, 2008. Climbers must use the new descent route established to the right of the route. Walk-offs are not allowed and doing so will jeopardize future access.
Note that 2/3 of this descent is free hanging and the final one is 200' long.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : ... : Photo
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhhhh, that was my high point for the pitch.
Mal-full disclosure-Daly
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Location: CO : The Mountain Shop Grand Re-...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Apr 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Congrats you guys. If the weather is bad tomorrow I might drive up. I started working at the original Mountain Shop in 1974 when it was still in the alley off of Laurel, then later when it moved into its location on Laurel. I worked there full time through the late seventies then part time whenever I needed work and Phil was feeling benevolent.
Best of luck to you: there's still a great future for small local shops that stay focused on the sports and the customers.
Mal
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got talked into kayaking SBC one year and ended up portaging most of it. Seemed to me that there was a grade that follows the north side of the creek bed most of the way. Maybe it's an old gas line or something.
IF the road grade is there and IF a right-of-way or easement can be negotiated then it will end up being a very popular beginner's trail. It will also become a very popular fishing access path.
I think this would be a great project for BOSMP to pursue. Imagine, OSMP providing a lin... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is great climbing but I'm not sure you can call it an Eldo classic. It's a frickin' bolt route!!! Skip the bolts and protect it with RPs and THEN it would be an Eldo Classic.
If you're looking for an Eldo Classic in the hood, lead Pansee Sauvage.
Now THAT's an Eldo Classic.
Mal
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Mike D on this one. The route is rated 5.11+. The first pitch clears the first roof and is rated 5.11a. The second pitch is the business and can be 5.11d or harder depending on your campusing ability between flared hands. There is no third pitch.
Whoever put the chains in below the first roof ought to be castrated: they have completely changed the nature of the route and should be removed. It used to be one of the great Veedauwoo test-pieces. Now it's just another overcrowded tick for ... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Monument Rock : The South Face (5.8 X)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Sep 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks similar to the Pawnee Buttes way East of Ft. Collins. I've climbed one of them via some cowboy Moqui steps. Can't imagine that the other one hasn't been climbed, but I never went over there to check it out. Anyone?
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Location: CO : Stashed Pad Removal Days
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amy,
Thanks a ton for organizing this. I'll be there for the Chaos one barring weird things happening. I recommend that the cleaner-uppers get first dibs on the pads. Then we take the remaining pads to some central location (The Spot?) so that their owners can claim them. After 30 days, sell or auction them with the proceeds going to the Access Fund.
skiclimber,
I feel your pain. It's always a bit of a crap shoot when you involve the "authorities" but at this point I think it's the right choic... more >>
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Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I LOVE the thought of MR holed up on some stinking Russian fishing boat, drunk on nasty vodka, regaling drunk Russian sailors with his exploits. Even better, them not speaking a word of English and MR completely illiterate in Russian but completely understanding each other. I want to see that on YouTube...
Michael, hang in there.
Mal
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Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is so sad. Michael had a life force that exhausted me when he was around. I hope he's just having a wet bivy somewhere. Here's a bit dfferent spin on how he fell in. Don't know which is correct.
http://www.rte.ie/news/2007/0714/kerry.html
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff Lowe and I did a route up here in the early '80s. I wish I had had my camera, because then I wouldn't have to try to remember. Damn memory.... I recall walking up past Colony Lakes up to the peak, spying a primo buttress right up the middle, then going for it. I don't remember much pro, but there were tons of bowling-ball-sized cobbles and an occasional belay. We did a fair amount of simul-climbing and it felt like 5.9+ or so. My memory tells me that the buttress went all the way to the top... more >>
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Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike1, I'm sorry but I disagree. An enhanced friction device like the ATC XP, ATC XP Guide, SGB II or the Jaws would do nothing to prevent this type of accident unless it was due to loss of control of the rope by the belayer's brake hand. In a lowering scenario this is highly unlikely. No doubt the belayer was concentrating on something else--probably the climber. If he was within 15' of the ground they were undoubtedly talking to each other ("Wow, dude! That was an awesome route. Man, I crushed... more >>
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Location: CO : Reports Of Possible "New Al...
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi gang,
Here are the photos of the braze failure that Micah Dash witnessed. This happened at the Reservoir Wall (IC) on 4/29. The climber wasn't hurt because he had another cam in about 2 feet down. There was about 50' of rope out when he fell. We may not hear from the owner of the cam. He was, according to Micah, "some 'euro dude".
Be safe out there...
Mal
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k50/maldaly/TempP... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Duncan Ferguson and Lisa Schassberger did the FFA on this in the late '70s or early '80s. They rated it 10+. Bill Alexander and I did the 2nd ascent a week or so later. We didn't know any better so we confirmed the grade. It was my most memorable ascent on the Diamond. It was raining in Ft. Collins when we woke, raining at the ranger station and raining at Jim's Grove. Finally ar Chasm cutoff we rose above the clouds and climbed in beautiful weather all day. It was like being on a island... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Crescent Wall : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is easier to do as a single pitch. The rope drag sucks but less so than a stupid hanging belay 20' off the ground. 2 ropes makes it pleasant.
Mal
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jun 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route twice. Once in the late 70s and once in the mid/late 80s and don't remember any offwidth. I suck at offwidths so I think I would remember. Since I suck at offwidths I have developed lots of avoidance techniques so maybe it's there and I just don't remember it... That chopper flake in the crack up high is waaaaay dangerous. Someone should trundle it when there's no one below.
The largest piece I ever carried in those days was a #3 Friend and it felt well protected. May... more >>
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ron,
Thanks for doing the research and posting that reg. After reading it I think that I was mistaken: there was no loophole. Delicate Arch was plain and simply open when Dean climbed it. The situation seems identical to climbing the 3rd Flatiron or the Naked Edge in October. They are just open--no climbing restrictions and no closures. I think we were all operating under the assumption that the thing was closed, as it probably should have been. Only it wasn't closed and it took Dean figured th... more >>
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is from an interview with Linda Joss, the Park Superintendent at Arches:
Arches Park Superintendent Laura Joss said she reported Potter's climb to the Interior Department's chief lawyers and that park rangers were investigating whether Potter did any damage to Delicate Arch, where a photographer was once charged with a misdemeanor for setting fires under the span.
Joss said she was rewriting rules Tuesday to ban climbing of any named arches or natural bridges in the park. The old rules ... more >>
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Location: Delicate Arch Climbed!
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken's right. After I heard this many people asked me to chime in with my opinion. I had nothing but heresay and innuendo to go by so I got in touch with Dean and Steph to hear their story before I spewed.
Here's the deal: Dean asked a park ranger if it was okay to climb Delicate Arch and was given the go-ahead. So let's back off and cool down a bit. What Dean did was legal, authorized and pre-aproved by the NPS. You may or may not agree with his decision to publicize the climb but that's Dean'... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Apr 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The exit number is 131, not 129. Don't know where the #129 came from (Bjornstat's book?) but it's wrong.
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