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Location: WY : Little Bear Gulch (now: Pub...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jun 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's sad to say but there is a 1,000 acre fire in this area as of this writing and it may be getting torched as I write this.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Quartzite Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: BTW, this route is either a solo or a short-rope practice climb. 98% of it is 3rd-4th class, but there are a couple of "stopper" moves in the 5.4 range with no fall consequences. There are plenty of places, however, where a trip or stumble on the easiest ground would result in a 150' groundfall. If you're comfortable soloing the 3rd Flatty, this one's for you. And it has no down-climb at the end.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Quartzite Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't believe this thing has been under my nose for 35 years and I haven't seen it. Hidden gem?
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mr. Breeze (5.2) : Photo
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, that was my kid's first lead, too! It wasn't an on-sight though. He had top-roped it the day before. The only problem we had was at the top. He weighed so little he couldn't lower! I had to climb up and pull him down.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Jetstream Deluxe (5.9 PG13)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I may have done the first ascent of this route in 1974 when Ed Eggers and I went up there with with my brand new rack (6 carabiners, 3 nuts and some slings), rope and Peter Limmer hiking boots. I didn't know too much about leading other than you needed gear at each belay and something in the middle, thus, three nuts. We walked around the base and found a crack that went up, and started climbing it. I ended up at the ledge with some junipers, below the smooth dihedral (I describe is look... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job, guys. Not only have you totally hacked the traditional ethics of RMNP alpine, you've also introduced the trashy, naming ethics use at the worst of the sport climbing piles. Golden Shower Wall? Classy.... You should be so proud.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job, guys. Not only have you totally hacked the traditional ethics of RMNP alpine you've also introduced some real classy sport climbing naming ethics. Golden Shower Wall? Classy.... You should be proud.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tongo (5.10d)
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: David Goldstein, the reason that it's done in 2 pitches is because someone (Captain Publicservice?) put in a bolt station there about 15 years ago.
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Location: CO : Media Release - WildyX In D...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations guys! Best of luck.
Malcolm
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Location: CO : Michael Kennedy Named Edito...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congratulations Michael,
I can't imagine a better man for the job.
Mal
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Location: CO : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Uhhhh... What is the Denver Climber's Coalition and what do you do?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Panty Wall
By: Malcolm Daly When: Dec 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I looks like the pine tree at the base of the Panty Wall blew down on Christmas day, 2008.
RIP
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kirra,
The rap is fixed from the top to the bottom. The whole purpose is to get people away from the powerhouse and make an independent rap line to the ground. Not sure of the specifics of the directional but will find out. I'm talking to Steve Johnson later today.
Mal
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bridalveil Falls Open to Climbing
Thanks to the efforts of Steve Johnson and the Telluride climbing community, Bridalveil Falls will be opened to climbing on December 1, 2008. Climbers must use the new descent route established to the right of the route. Walk-offs are not allowed and doing so will jeopardize future access.
Note that 2/3 of this descent is free hanging and the final one is 200' long.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : ... : Photo
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhhhh, that was my high point for the pitch.
Mal-full disclosure-Daly
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Location: CO : The Mountain Shop Grand Re-...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Apr 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Congrats you guys. If the weather is bad tomorrow I might drive up. I started working at the original Mountain Shop in 1974 when it was still in the alley off of Laurel, then later when it moved into its location on Laurel. I worked there full time through the late seventies then part time whenever I needed work and Phil was feeling benevolent.
Best of luck to you: there's still a great future for small local shops that stay focused on the sports and the customers.
Mal
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got talked into kayaking SBC one year and ended up portaging most of it. Seemed to me that there was a grade that follows the north side of the creek bed most of the way. Maybe it's an old gas line or something.
IF the road grade is there and IF a right-of-way or easement can be negotiated then it will end up being a very popular beginner's trail. It will also become a very popular fishing access path.
I think this would be a great project for BOSMP to pursue. Imagine, OSMP providing a lin... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Le Boomerang (5.11+)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Feb 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is great climbing but I'm not sure you can call it an Eldo classic. It's a frickin' bolt route!!! Skip the bolts and protect it with RPs and THEN it would be an Eldo Classic.
If you're looking for an Eldo Classic in the hood, lead Pansee Sauvage.
Now THAT's an Eldo Classic.
Mal
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.10a)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm with Mike D on this one. The route is rated 5.11+. The first pitch clears the first roof and is rated 5.11a. The second pitch is the business and can be 5.11d or harder depending on your campusing ability between flared hands. There is no third pitch.
Whoever put the chains in below the first roof ought to be castrated: they have completely changed the nature of the route and should be removed. It used to be one of the great Veedauwoo test-pieces. Now it's just another overcrowded tick for ... more >>
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Location: CO : Denver South : Monument Rock : The South Face (5.8 X)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Sep 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks similar to the Pawnee Buttes way East of Ft. Collins. I've climbed one of them via some cowboy Moqui steps. Can't imagine that the other one hasn't been climbed, but I never went over there to check it out. Anyone?
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Location: CO : Stashed Pad Removal Days
By: Malcolm Daly When: Aug 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amy,
Thanks a ton for organizing this. I'll be there for the Chaos one barring weird things happening. I recommend that the cleaner-uppers get first dibs on the pads. Then we take the remaining pads to some central location (The Spot?) so that their owners can claim them. After 30 days, sell or auction them with the proceeds going to the Access Fund.
skiclimber,
I feel your pain. It's always a bit of a crap shoot when you involve the "authorities" but at this point I think it's the right choic... more >>
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Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I LOVE the thought of MR holed up on some stinking Russian fishing boat, drunk on nasty vodka, regaling drunk Russian sailors with his exploits. Even better, them not speaking a word of English and MR completely illiterate in Russian but completely understanding each other. I want to see that on YouTube...
Michael, hang in there.
Mal
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Location: CO : Michael Reardon missing in ...
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is so sad. Michael had a life force that exhausted me when he was around. I hope he's just having a wet bivy somewhere. Here's a bit dfferent spin on how he fell in. Don't know which is correct.
www.rte.ie/news/2007/0714/kerry.html
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R)
By: Malcolm Daly When: Jul 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff Lowe and I did a route up here in the early '80s. I wish I had had my camera, because then I wouldn't have to try to remember. Damn memory.... I recall walking up past Colony Lakes up to the peak, spying a primo buttress right up the middle, then going for it. I don't remember much pro, but there were tons of bowling-ball-sized cobbles and an occasional belay. We did a fair amount of simul-climbing and it felt like 5.9+ or so. My memory tells me that the buttress went all the way to the top... more >>
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Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Malcolm Daly When: May 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike1, I'm sorry but I disagree. An enhanced friction device like the ATC XP, ATC XP Guide, SGB II or the Jaws would do nothing to prevent this type of accident unless it was due to loss of control of the rope by the belayer's brake hand. In a lowering scenario this is highly unlikely. No doubt the belayer was concentrating on something else--probably the climber. If he was within 15' of the ground they were undoubtedly talking to each other ("Wow, dude! That was an awesome route. Man, I crushed... more >>
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