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Member Since: Mar 17, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 17, 2016
Contact Maidy

Point Rank: # 1,980
Total Points: 384
Last Year: 91
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Maidy been climbing?










Contributions


All 179 | Routes 23 | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 5 | Stars 62 | Ratings 15
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Pee Wee's Playhouse (5.7)
By: Maidy When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: The last 20 feet of this climb gets 4 stars in my book. Pity the arete isn't longer- fun warmup nonetheless.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Pink Face
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: There's a variety of decent moderates in this area and it's one of the few areas with kid and beginner-friendly climbs. Everything on the main Pink Face wall is fun on stellar quality rock. The main Pink Face wall stays in the shade most of the day. The Pink Face Buttress on the right side offers some more challenging climbs with bouldery starts.

As a side note- the hillside is extremely loose. We've made some effort to stabilize and mark the trails. Try to walk on established trails and l... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Coming Attractions (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: A very fun steep climb. It's balancy and sustained on small holds but it's all there and well bolted.
The 5.8 rating is a bit "old-school" IMO and will definitely feel harder for a beginning leader.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Anonymous Bolter (5.5)
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Crux is clipping the first bolt and there's some runouts on stuff you don't want to fall on. Fortunately it's mostly 5.3 climbing so you are unlikely to fall on those sections. Kinda boring. That being said it does have some nice exposure and is in the sun if you waiting for it to warm up on a cold day.

NOT a good first lead. Pink Wall Area just upriver is a better choice for beginning leaders.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Low Hanging Fruit (5.10a/b)
By: Maidy When: Apr 6, 2016

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Comments: Fun climb on edges and pockets. This climb originally started at the third bolt after climbing up the groove and was rated 5.9. Leaders can still climb it this way if they have trouble with the low crux of the direct start. From the top of this climb it is very easy to swing over and clip a directional on the Wowie Zowie anchor if you would like to TR the 10aR climb and the fun 5.8 trad crack climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Held Over (5.10c)
By: Maidy When: Apr 2, 2016

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Comments: Lame anchor issue has been rectified. Mussy hooks and chain added to equalize existing anchors and make it easier to lower off. This climb is sustained! Definitely a bit old school.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Sabado Gigante (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: This climb is cleaning up and gets better and better each year. Varied, long and really fun IMO.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : Big Tower
By: Maidy When: Feb 9, 2016

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Comments: A good selection of really fun climbs in 5.10 range in this area.

The two river crossings to the Big Tower/Pink Face areas have been improved. The large tree bridge and trail at the "Anonymous Bolter" buttress is now equipped with a kind of "handrail". The north crossing below the Pink Face now has a few planks to make it easier.

As a side note- the hillside is extremely loose. We've made some effort to stabilize and mark the trails. Try to walk on established trails and large rocks wheneve... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Point Dume
By: Maidy When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: See condition report at the top of the page.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Point Dume
By: Maidy When: Jan 20, 2016

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Comments: To clarify what happened at Point Dume with the anchors this past weekend. I contacted the park service. The TR anchors were accidentally removed by a trail maintenance crew who considered them "trip hazards" and evidently didn't know what they were for. Climbing is not banned at the cliff. They were trying to block the cut-throughs and splinter trails to protect the wildlife and plants so please stick to the established trail.

As a side note- the bashed lead bolts were the result of a priva... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Java Wall : Caffeine (5.11a/b)
By: Maidy When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: FYI:Open shut anchor replacement at Echo is EXTREMELY difficult and labor intensive. It's NEVER- a quick fix. It's the reason these anchors go so long without maintenance and can get so dangerous. PLEASE do not TR through any of the anchors. Please let folks know and tell them why they shouldn't do it.

PS:Having rap rings actually doesn't change the situation at Echo. People STILL take the time to re-thread and TR off the rings. I see ropes through rap rings almost every time I go down there... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : B-Line (5.10a)
By: Maidy When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Anchor was replaced courtesy of the ASCA.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: Maidy When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: Been out to climb this a couple times now. The positive- upper half is a good technical steep climb worthy of some stars. The bad - NOT a fan of how the start was engineered. The roof bolt is extremely reachy for someone with a short wing span. If you don't bring gear- it's a R-rated fall and slightly contrived in light of the bolted crack immediately to the left that can be used to access the head wall. Could have just shared a start IMO but the top is definitely good.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Judgito (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Fun but very technical. This climb will fee somewhat old-school for some folks. Tricky slab move at the start. Finish keeps your attention.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : OJ Buttress : Mimosa (5.10b)
By: Maidy When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: 1st pitch has some nice moves of technical face climbing. 2nd pitch is easy ground but worth the scramble to get to the 3rd pitch - which is the money-pitch with an extra star in my book. Beautiful dihedral with great exposure. Wish it was longer.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Proud Mary (5.10c/d)
By: Maidy When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: Have to give it a go next time we are in the area. I've TR'd that top section in the past- definitely 10c/d and surely a thought provoking lead now that it's bolted. The wall has so many features it's actually possible to create a number of diagonally crossing lines.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak
By: Maidy When: Apr 19, 2015

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Comments: It's difficult to tell who actually "owns" Corpse Wall. The hiking trail on the east side is a State Park boundary. It does not include Corpse Wall. A NPS boundary cuts directly across Corpse Wall lengthwise. Does this boundary include the cliff face itself and it's base has always been a question in my mind.

There are private property markers to the west and north and the remnants of a fence line not far from the base. Based on the location of the fence line and markers and the NPS maps,... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Unknown B (5.9+)
By: Maidy When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: A nice, well protected slab climb. The 5.9 version is a bit contrived IMO since the right-hand edge of the slab is so close it is extremely difficult not to follow your instinct an use it...which drops the grade to 5.8 (or less if you allow your foot to step off the edge). Still pretty fun nonetheless and a good little warmup/warmdown.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Unknown A (5.10b)
By: Maidy When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: I'll second the comments above. A fun, short, slab climb that's worth a go. Solid 10b friction on grippy granite. There's an easy crack to the left you can climb to set up a TR anchor as well.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags
By: Maidy When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: Super fun climbing on good quality rock in a really beautiful setting. The monzonite was more similar to Holcomb Pinnacles, but way more cracks and the walls are much taller. 70 meter rope needed to do a rap to the ground from the main anchor on Locals Only.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Locals Only Rock : Surfin' Safari (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: We really enjoyed this climb. Long, varied climbing on good rock. We didn't see an anchor either-probably a misprint in the book or it's been chopped. We climbed the left steep dihedral finish (pic ^) which has good features and protection. Probably way more fun than groveling up one of the wide chimneys. Definitely would love to climb it again.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Eastern Hills : Benton Crags : Corral (and Double Dome)
By: Maidy When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: Yup- this place is pretty hard to find. More beta for the approach: Hike up the main drainage about 15 minutes. You will pass a giant dramatic dead twisted tree on your right. About 5-10 minutes past the tree you will cut right (east) in a flat area. The cutoff was easy to miss (we got lost for an hour after missing it... doesn't help that there are "sucker cairns" further up the hill.) If you find yourself still hiking the main drainage after 25 minutes... you may have gone too far.

We a... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak : Route 4 (5.9)
By: Maidy When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: An independent anchor for lead-climbers was added to the face at the top of this route after repeated disputes and confusion over the shared anchor on busier days.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : The Tea Room : Unknown (5.10c)
By: Maidy When: Feb 11, 2014

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Comments: This is a TR variation you can do off the Fen Gliddich anchor. Bring two runners and use a sliding-X configuration on the Fen anchor to equalize it since the directional bolts are far to the right. Rates about 10b/c? and is another route to do if you are seeking shade in the Tea Room on a hot day. Stick to the darker colored and reddish rock. and watch out for loose stuff since this hasn't seen much traffic.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Left Flank : The Sumac Route (5.8)
By: Maidy When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: Liking this route more and more as it cleans up. Like Ben said, steep and committing, but not really that difficult. The final bolt directly under the sumac bush is camouflaged and a bit difficult to spot. There's still some loose rock inside the crack to watch out for. The face is pretty clean. Our new favorite warm-up route on the wall.


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