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Location: NH : Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Pee Wee's Big Adventure (5.4) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peewee's Playhouse is the little sport climb down at Upper Darth Vador Crag. Title is mixed up. This is indeed Peewee's Big Adventure.
Gees, what are we paying you for, Lee?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Brendans Bitches (5.6)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad, would you mind if an anchor was added, the route cleaned up and possibly a few bolts added if needed to make it better protected? It would be a really nice long moderate addition to the routes climbed in the area. Otherwise it just lays fallow for the most part, which seems a shame.
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Location: NH : Rumney
By: M Sprague When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new edition to Ward's Rumney Guide is finally available. Here is a link for buying it directly: http://www.rumneyclimbing.com/
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Location: NH : Rumney : Below the New Wave : Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10a?? Ward has gone soft
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Location: NH : Rumney : Kennel Wall : Bad Dog Crack (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad, you may have climbed this before me, but I put that pin in. It was from another route that got retroed (most likely one of your pins). I don't normally use pins, but thought it was befitting the route.
I'm happy to hear that you climbed it earlier though. Do you remember a name for it?
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Location: NH : Greens Cliff
By: M Sprague When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, John, I put a photo up of the cliff(s). Where would Stewert's and Black Flies be in the photo?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Blues for Mowgli (5.12d)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keith Becconsall did the FA. I think this is one of his best routes and it is fiendishly hard to me. Definitely a sandbag at 12c in the old book
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Hassig's Libido (5.11c)
By: M Sprague When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your description matches exactly what I found. At one point we had though of cleaning and retroing it a little, but we decided not to so as not to piss off people by retroing a dead man's route. Personally, I think the route would be improved by the addition of a bolt or 2 in the chossy top bulge, but gear placements can be found if you really have a desire to lead it. We had even thought of breaking out a ouji board to get permission, but decided to just put an anchor in so people could TR it s... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Lions and Tigers and Bears (5.11b) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looke like he has just broken off of LT&B and is heading up Flying Monkeys. LT&B follows the seam and flakes out right. It sure is looking like nasty conditions to go that way though..12a ooze climbing
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Green Mile (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup..all bolt protected.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: M Sprague When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Im guessing 15 ft. Its all glue-ins. Don't go all the way to the Rawl bolt. That is for an unfinished project that comes close to RDJD at that point and could cause confusion
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : Green Mile (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, Panama Hat goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch.
The next route to the right is Chris Smith's route Flying Squirrel. It goes up at the big corner and out rt onto the aret... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : The Big Easy (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You go around the Sesame crux.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff
By: M Sprague When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: aka "The Highlands"
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Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Also, there are 2 second pitches to Captain Hook called Peter Pan and Tinkerbell, both 12c. I forgot which is which. They are good, steep interesting routes that few know about that are very worth doing. To do them, climb Capt Hook past the usual anchor to a higher one. Clip in and pull the rope through and get back on belay to reduce drag and shoot for the left route. A 60 meter rope will get you lowered from the top. For the right route, you can also come in from Purple Microdot and do the sam... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a 12b/c just between Predator and the second pitch of Tropicana called The Opportunist that Chris Smith put up a Few years ago.. great route. Most of it is really fun, steep, juggy 5.11 with some long moves. You then come to a rest, then head left to surmount a bulge at the top on smaller holds with nice air below you. With a long rope and a few slings to reduce drag you can combine the first pitch of Orange Crush with it to to make a long super pitch.
This route often seeps, but can b... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great map, Lee. One thing though. Could you correct it to put the new blue flagged "Short Cut" path in. It is the main one that goes from the small parking lot follows up towards left end of the main cliff, but veers left above the 5.8 crag and monsters, perhaps in a different line. to show it as the main trunk trail.
It is really important for people to use this trail and get off the road.
edit; saw your note afterwards. i havent been to rumney in a couple months so havent seen the... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney
By: M Sprague When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Half inch quicklinks work great. 3/8" is fine for the top ones if you want to save a little. The 1/2" ones take the wear much better. I wouldn't bother with stainless steel quicklinks...no real need here. Just make sure to put 2 on each hanger so the rope will run correctly. Spray them with some grey or black rustolium to take the shine off while you have them at home. I like them better than quickclips for the reason mentioned before; less of an urge to directly TR through them.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Swedish Girls (5.10d)
By: M Sprague When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an alternate start to this that I bolted that comes up the wall below to add some nice moderate climbing before you jump right into the cruxy start of the original way. This was the left most line on the lower wall ( glue-ins) but a lower bolted start to boar war may have been added since. The next 3 lines to the rt on this lower wall are ones that I wouldn't recommend: first, a nondescript route with (to my mind)an oddly bolted finish. Second, a sharp, half cleaned, nasty, trad route t... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Short Board (5.11b)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember when Todd got suckered into cleaning and doing this route, so he didnt snag any of the good lines, lol. Ward pointed him in this direction
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Free Range Chicken (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You sure about this, Lee? I know Chris put up a new bolted 10 between Dolt and Nicky's Crack, but that was a year or so ago. I don't think anyone would retro this climb as it is easily lead on gear and TRed
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Ali Babbler (5.11c)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice job, Lee.
NH climber, why exactly is it a shame? I bet 95% at least of people who have climbed it have emjoyed having bolts on it.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous area (M... : The Big Easy (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I never got back to finish cleaning and equipping this. What you would do though is climb the first pitch of the Big Easy, but continue past the belay ledge up through the notch to the belay at the top of Sesame St. A line of bolts leads up directly from there ( uncleaned and watch out for a large loose rocks). From the next belay, below a tree ledge, you would scramble up over a short vegetated area to reach the left side of the high white buttress at the top of the cliff. There is a rt angling... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Love Nest (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: aka "Drilling for Love"
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Location: NH : Rumney : Venus Wall : Shame on a Chippa (5.13c)
By: M Sprague When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Tim thought it was, but I am not sure it really was. Sometimes people think things are chipped when they are not and visa versa. When cleaning for a new route it is also sometimes a grey area with chossy rock. I have only been on the route one time, so I'm not sure what specific hold/s he found questionable. It is kind of a sharp tweakfest if I remember right
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