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Rock Climbing Photo: Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact M Sprague

Point Rank: # 65
Total Points: 5,950
Last Year: 777
Last 30 Days: 6
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 3907 | Routes 139 | Areas 80 | Photos 375 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 1471 | Posts 1248 | Stars 526 | Ratings 64
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Crack In The Woods : Crack In The Woods (5.10c)
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I saw a porcupine out below Owl's that was so big I thought it was a bear at first. It was as big as a good sized dog. I heard some loud rummaging on the back side of a boulder I was sleeping under so I took my headlamp and gingerly peeked around and it scared the crap out of me. It hid under a cave on the same boulder, which kept me awake for a while wondering if it was rabid and would attack me. I restoked the fire and kept a big stick next to me, haha. Scarier than a bear.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Crack In The Woods : Crack In The Woods (5.10c) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: One of my goals this year is to scrub the top of this and replace the anchor (and climb it of course).


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall : Main Wall
By: M Sprague When: Feb 7, 2016

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Comments: I could have sworn Whitey TRed it when we did a session there. I was pretty new to climbing and vaguely remember struggling on it and not being able to finish. I think (very vague) Whitey was doing some kind of big stem that I couldn't get close to doing, if that makes sense. Take that memory with a grain of salt.


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Heart Boulder : Silent Rage (V8)
By: M Sprague When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: Ha! I remember trying this and wondering how he started. I though if I could just get off the ground it didn't look too bad. I'll have to go back and check if I was dreaming. If john couldn't do it, I probably was.


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods
By: M Sprague When: Jan 28, 2016

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Comments: People have been bouldering at LW since at least the 1930s. It is mentioned in the November 1935 edition of Appalachia.


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area : Dracula (WI4+)
By: M Sprague When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Chris. You can use that blue 'Improve this Page' button above. It sends a note to the original poster so they have more chance of noticing your suggestions and also to the area admins. I wish more people would use that feature so the descriptions can keep being improved and updated.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Can we just move the Bugaboos to some place in New England please, preferably in NH? Of course they would be covered in lichen and the cracks would be full of blue berries. I'd be happy to do the cleaning though.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Main Wall
By: M Sprague When: Jan 13, 2016

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Comments: Hideous Spandex was more of an 80s thing, at least in RI, from what I remember. I started in the mid 80s and it was big then (I'm guessing influenced by Edlinger at first from late 70s). In the 70s it was probably more painter's pants and cut-offs.


Location: Rhode Island : Pettaquamscutt Rock
By: M Sprague When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: This little crag has been climbed on since at least the 1970s, though owing to better alternatives not so much nowadays. It even had its own published guidebook. The rock is like climbing on a giant cheese grater. Until there is more posted here, your best source of information is climbri.org/pet.htm


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Breakheart Ledge
By: M Sprague When: Jan 4, 2016

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Comments: Brian mentioned this area recently so I checked it out and was pleasantly surprised. I have started to develop the bouldering some, mostly on the left side so far, where there is a shorter vertical wall with easier routes and traverses and a nice taller overhung section. It looks like there is plenty more. Some of the potential lines blur from highball into solo territory with nasty landings so be sensible about using a rope, particularly since it hasn't seen much traffic on a lot of it.

I ha... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock : Hold Your Applause (V4)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: OK, thanks. I'll have to have a look to refresh my memory.


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : The Pedestal Boulder : The Pedestal (V5)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: Deciphering Paul's notes, it looks like Paul Baird did the stand start in the early '70s and Neil Pothier did the sit start '87-89


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock : Hold Your Applause (V4)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: Is this Cosmo, Whitey's traverse on the Backside Boulder? Baird's notes say "Cosmo, 5.11 This problem is named for its glamour move. Traverse from right to left. FA John MacLean 90-93"

He also lists "Back Traverse, 5.11+ Starting from a sit down on the right traverse to the left in small seam staying below the lip. Bill Patton 90-93"


Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock : Split Rock Face (V4)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: That looks like 'Paul's Waltz', a problem from the early 70's, FA - Paul Baird, the pioneer of LW. In some old notes he gave me he called it 5.10. Between it and Poly's Nose, L to Rt, he lists 'Plumb Line'5.11+, FA Chuck Boyd early '80s, then 'Bob's Mantle' 5.11+ FA Neil Pothier, early 80's. Between Paul's Waltz and the split he mentions three more routes, all FA Paul Baird, early 70's, R to L 'Ground Round', 'Hidden Flake' and 'Edge Lieback'. Looks like he and his friends started climbing every... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Escoheag : The Escoheag Boulder : Boot Strap (V5)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: I did this the other day. I am sure it has been climbed before, maybe even by me a long time ago, but I don't remember it having a name. If anyone has a previous one, let me know. I thought it was a pretty good route. Thin feet in the transition towards the stand start ups the pump in spite of the good hand holds.

I am not sure of the grade. It seemed harder than the Arete Sit, but that one always seems easy for the grade for me.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Trailside Boulders : Gale Force (V2-3)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: Look in the top right corner of the main Pawtuckaway page for 'Guidebooks' and click that.


Location: NH : *Pawtuckaway : Trailside Boulders : Gale Force (V2-3)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: This looks like #6 Unnamed on page 58 of the 2014 Underground Guide. Hopefully the tick mentioned in the description is not a permanent attribute ;) Good name. Thanks for entering it.


Location: NH : WM: Crawford Notch : Mt. Willard : Ben Wall (crag by rt 302) : Dihedral (5.8+)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: An anchor sounds good to me.


Location: MA : Middlesex Fells : Red Cross Path Vicinity : Trailside Outcrops : Sticky Fingers (V2)
By: M Sprague When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: "I know this is a FA since I cleaned moss and lichen off the obvious starting hold."

Bear in mind this is NE. Stuff grows back very quickly if not climbed on regularly. The rock underneath is probably a more accurate indicator.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: It looks like an Elvis painting with the high saturation.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: M Sprague When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: That must be another one that I have not seen yet. The one Chris and I played around on was south of Kenyon Hill Tr.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: M Sprague When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Ah, OK, thanks. That is exactly where I was thinking it must be after looking at a topo map. If I finish work early enough today I'll take a run over there and see how it looks for bouldering.

There are a few mini crags like this in the Carolina Management Area along the Meadowbrook tr. Chris Smith Showed me one years ago and we did some highball bouldering there. Rescrubbed up and it would be a decent little local spot. If Chris can remember any names or exact lines (I can't), I'll post them u... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The "Lost" Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Just another confirmation that the Lost Boulder and Backwoods Wall are on DEM land: Looking at the 2013 Great Swamp Press map of Arcadia the boundaries are clearly delineated. I know the person who made the map and he is meticulous.

The land directly surrounding Wickoboxet Pond and SE of the Lost Boulder is private property, so should not be entered without permission. There are a couple marginal boulders near the p... more >>


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : The "Found" Boulder : Crimps Rule Everything Arou... (V7)
By: M Sprague When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Razor crimps. You may want tape for your tips unless you have very tough skin and are the size of Ashima.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area
By: M Sprague When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Interesting. I have scoured pretty well to the south and east of the pond and only found a few very marginal boulders, but have not looked to the NW yet. About how far from the pond is it, if you don't mind?


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