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Rock Climbing Photo: Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...


Member Since: Nov 9, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact M Sprague

Point Rank: # 65
Total Points: 6,099
Last Year: 798
Last 30 Days: 27
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has M Sprague been climbing?










Contributions


All 4035 | Routes 146 | Areas 79 | Photos 385 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 1512 | Posts 1307 | Stars 535 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The White Buttress (5.9)
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Was the 3rd pitch of the old line Slick. I have heard that Tim Gotwells actually lead this pitch first, but he was the "new kid" so credit was overlooked.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Slick (5.7)
By: M Sprague When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Chime in on the grade and gear sizes if you have done this lately. I wasn't paying attention last time I did this as a quick TR after Cloud.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Arugula, Arugula (5.10a)
By: M Sprague When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: Corrected. AAA is to the right of Toxic Gumbo. Boats from Cuba, as described here, is a second pitch (originally approached via a traverse from the Iron Man ledge, but now more commonly from The Big Easy)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Yup, Charity Case, about 1000 ft to the right off route :)) At least you weren't up at the Summit Cliff looking for the 5.8 Crag. I've seen that before, haha.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Looks to me like he is further right, possibly on Charity Case. That is the Iron Man wall of the Main Cliff all off to the left and the Freebird buttress straight above the rope.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Waimea : Tsunami (5.12c) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: fingery piano match where her hands are and make a big rock over (I used my toe at the lip rather than a heel) and reach hard to a right side pull, bring left toe up to match by the left hand. At that point I think I stabilize and pop the left up I think to the small edge below the draw and then move the right up to a better hold for clipping(been a while)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Middle Man (5.10b)
By: M Sprague When: Apr 12, 2016

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Comments: aka Lee Gets Pulled Aside


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Fat and Happy area : Glenna (V0)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: The nicest route on this boulder IMO, though it could currently use a fresh brushing. Good quality rock.

Does anybody already have a name for this? It was obviously at least partially cleaned before.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Fat and Happy area : Blair Witch (V5+)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Sean, do you mean the rock to the right of the big split is off, or the rock just left of the arete kind of below the incut hold, which has lots of vertical splits in it is off?
First go I jammed my fingers too tightly in the horizontal, kind of botched the feet and got the bad part of the sloper so had to climb down and thought the route was kind of nasty, but after doing the two routes to the right I came back and hit it right (used foot holds right on the arete to be able to get the sloper s... more >>


Location:
By: M Sprague When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: Sweet! Any good new lines open up?


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Where am I ? (5.10a)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 28, 2016

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Comments: Nick, I definitely went to the right, maybe even around the arete and it feeling slightly spicey. Being tall should help. It has been a long time so my recollection is hazy. I seem to remember reaching out left to clip not up and being above the preceding bolt some. I never really cleaned the bottom but the upper part was scrubbed when I put the route up.


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : Greens Cliff : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: reached from the 302 side, not the Kanc. The fact that it is 5 min walk off the dirt road and can't be seen from the car keeps the crowds down, plus the water seemed colder than further down stream. Dive in deep and wowa.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: I bet it is closer to 30. It seems as as tall as my chimney which is about that.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Firewall
By: M Sprague When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Good to know, Brian. There are a couple lines on the main wall that would make nice moderate sport routes, but that area is one of the few places in RI where hikers can get a little feeling of being in the mountains (even though people throw trash over it), so I think it should be left natural. The Fire Wall would probably be OK if we used Wave bolts and painted them to match the rock.


Location: NH : *Rumney
By: M Sprague When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: The Little House Inn It is owned by local climbers Pete and Shana Jackson (great people) and is right in the Rumney village, across the street from the Common Cafe and only 1/2 mile from the crags. They have both bunks and private rooms and a well equipped kitchen available to guests. I stayed last fall and waking up in a big elegant bed with tons of pillows and a view over the village I was thinking I wanted to move in permanently.


Location: Rhode Island : Pettaquamscutt Rock : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 23, 2016

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Comments: Fistjam 5.5


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Small Egg Boulder
By: M Sprague When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Still no FA? It can't be that hard.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Walls 13x35 and 25x20 are The Ivy Wall. Pine Line and the Scoop is the Trailside Wall. The Fat and Happy Area is west and including what is called the SmallOverhang here.


Location: Rhode Island : Arcadia Management Area : Mt. Tom : Firewall
By: M Sprague When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: It might be a place for a few mini 2 or 3 bolt sport routes (2 on the right and 1 to the left of the cracks) and anchors for the 2 cracks if everything was camoed up well. It is an area where very few non climbers would see them. Otherwise, it is a pain in the ass for such a short craglet with long slings etc to TR. Then it would be worth recleaning the routes here. I am not sure you will find a quality 13, but some of the existing lines were 11s if I remember right (maybe harder now with broken... more >>


Location: CT : CT Bouldering : Westwoods (Cockaponset Stat...
By: M Sprague When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: GLCT, Thanks for your note, but why exactly is bouldering not allowed on the trust property? Is it potentially a lack of understanding about bouldering on the part of the trust managers? I don't see any legitimate liability issue and to my mind, while mountain biking is allowed, that seems more destructive and potentially dangerous, so it seems capricious. If a good dialogue is maintained with the climbing community I don't see how bouldering is an incompatible use and climbers wouldn't be alien... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mitosis (5.11d)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: Fun route, quite bouldery. It helps a lot to pre-inspect on your way down from climbing Metamorphosis so you are not hanging out mid crux wondering which holds to go for. You will want to execute quickly! This may actually be easier for shorter people as long as you have some power.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Cloud Atlas (5.11d)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: I got on this with Chris this weekend. It is a great route with good rock and really fun thought provoking beta. I found it a little heady feeling on my flash attempt even though the bolt was probably at my ankle, as some of the moves are tenuous. It is well bolted though. The grade is probably height dependent.

Eli, re. Boats, you may be able to use the first couple bolts of Chris's route for Boats and then they diverge left.


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : Ship's Prow Boulder : Ship's Prow (V0)
By: M Sprague When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: I think Dave Quinn did an early if not FA of this. He did a bunch of lines on this boulder back in the day. I'll have to ask him next time I see him.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Panama Hat (aka Mister Mean... (5.9+) : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: When you hit the ceiling move left around the corner and over to a spot where it is easier to move up, then angle back right


Location: NH : *Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands... : Photo
By: M Sprague When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: It is a second pitch to Visions. I am not sure if Keith ever finished it (probably). At one point I seem to remember he intended to clean up some of the extra bolts. Unfortunately the second pitch arete is not nearly as good as it looks from a distance, especially from the Crows Nest. It does have a nice view though.

The Gospel is to the left, more in line with the hanging rope. I never did the second pitch as it is quite a bit easier and less quality, with some scary blocks that would need to ... more >>


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