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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Optimator (5.13-)
By: m-earle When: Nov 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would suggest taking one or two green aliens for the first couple of moves in the second corner. This route is amazing...FA Steve Petro?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Unnamed (5.11+)
By: m-earle When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this thinking it was "double trouble." Definitely worth doing.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: m-earle When: Nov 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rapped the north face with one 70m. The first rap brought us to a ledge about 15-20' above the anchors, and an exposed downclimbed ensued...we also left half the rack on top and were forced to simul Kor-Ingalls to get it. Kor-Ingalls is way easy to rap with one 70m.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Manual Labor (V0+)
By: m-earle When: Oct 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great intro prob to bat-hanging, with a tricky lip encounter. bout' time you posted this one up Will...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator : Two Scoops (5.12)
By: m-earle When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where at the optimator is this route?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Allen's Ridge Area : Trench Warfare (5.12+)
By: m-earle When: Oct 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I too was under the impression that this thing was first sent in the 90's. Its featured in that article "A hard crack is good to find" that was in a 97' rock and ice. somthing like that...
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Short Circuit (5.11d)
By: m-earle When: Oct 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Exellent line. Defininately worth checkinging out if you dig crack problems.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Bouldering : Initial Friction (V1)
By: m-earle When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you lack any form of slab skills (such as myself), expect to put in a V5 effort to get anywhere on this one.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Wild Cat (5.11+)
By: m-earle When: Sep 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the first 15' feet of rattly fingers off the pillar were way effin hard . once the crack went splitter, i felt it eased up. Felt a bit harder than Slice'n Dice
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Deseret Moon (5.11)
By: m-earle When: Sep 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a friend take a 30' ground fall on to his back from the 11+ start when three cams ripped. They were most likey placed poorly, but be warned, a big fall onto small gear is a bad idea.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : The Moratorium (5.11b)
By: m-earle When: Sep 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is a superb intro for valley 5.11 multi-pitch
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Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Mammy (5.9) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Sep 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: time to pull up those bute-straps boy!
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Location: TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock...
By: m-earle When: Sep 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great description Kev, this is one of my favorite places to boulder.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Catchy Corner (5.11a)
By: m-earle When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got my rope stuck in the crack after rapping this pitch. I had a fun time re-climbing the pitch on 2 pieces of gear
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Cathedral Peak : Ghettosnake (V5)
By: m-earle When: Sep 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure if I put this in the right area, but this problem is just too good, and it sees very little action.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Recluse (5.10d)
By: m-earle When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe you are reffering to "Failsafe," a line that breaks left off of "birds nest." I could be wrong, its been a while.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : True Penitence (5.11a)
By: m-earle When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this that steep, laser-cut corner crack? If so, I got on this thing thinking it was wide hands- I ended up getting worked trying to do do kick-throughs/ bumping handstacks up the whole thing. OW all the way. Bring a (new) #5 Camalot for the top. Hightops, pants, long sleeve shirt highly recomended. Six stars.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : The Dungeon : The Warden (V8) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Sep 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are those La Sportiva Megas? An excellent choice for inverts and bathanging.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Old Easy : Desiderata (V5) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: fantastic
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Five and Dime (5.10d) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Aug 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: and a harness and gear? yeah, he's free solo'n
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Staircase Falls : Circuit Breaker (5.11b)
By: m-earle When: Aug 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be warned that the last move has spit off many unsuspecting climbers. While the move feels quite solid, I have heard of at least 3 different people taking the fall and fuck'n up their ankles.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a)
By: m-earle When: Jul 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, feet first is pretty clutch. you'd have to be super human to do it any other way
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Fun House Left (5.8)
By: m-earle When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: While on lead halfway up this corner a while back, a huge spider emerged from the crack where I was about to place gear. I almost shat myself.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: m-earle When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I once saw a monster black widow spider pretty close to where her left hand is. Needless to say, I almost shat myself.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Serrator Crack (5.11a/b)
By: m-earle When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had one #6 wild country, which i wakled from the start of the serrator for 20'. after that, the crack becomes too big for the last 15'-20' or so. it would be nice to have two #6 cams; its a little scary being 60' off the deck with basicaly one cam between you and a ground fall.
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