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Crack Farmer


Member Since: Oct 30, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact m-earle


Point Rank: # 894
Total Points: 731
Last Year: 81
Last 30 Days: 0
112 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has m-earle been climbing?










Contributions


All 296 | Routes 22 | Areas 3 | Photos 69 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 12 | Stars 66 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street South : Say Your Prayers (5.13-)
By: m-earle When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: Cool. Thanks for the info.


Location: International : South America : Venezuela : Acopán Tepui (also Akopán T...
By: m-earle When: Apr 27, 2013

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Comments: I was here in the Feb '12, and the folks in yunek were charging about 40 usd per person, per day of portering- for a 15 kilo bag.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : Original Route (5.9 C1)
By: m-earle When: Mar 5, 2013

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Comments: Andrew, we hiked in from lower wedge road, north of the canyon. We didn't leave the car until after 2pm and had no idea where we were going, so we unfortunately only had time to climb the first pitch- really awesome pitch, and no gimme either.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : Original Route (5.9 C1)
By: m-earle When: Mar 2, 2013

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Comments: Freed the first pitch with Neils Tietze- high quality crack climbing. Probably 12+ ish if the last 20' of sugary green camalots get cleaned up (imagine placing cams in graham crackers) As it is, probably more like 13-. Gear...

2 x .4 camalots
11x .5 camalots
10x .75 camalots
1x 1 camalot

We hiked down from the rim to get to the tower, instead of taking the trail up the river. Fun, but not reccomended. Cheers to the FA'ers for putting this gem on the map. m


Location: MA : Cape Ann : Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : Concord St. Entrance : The Driven Boulder : Thee Off-width (V4-5)
By: m-earle When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: 5.12 Gloucester OW
.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Suburbia : R.I.L.F. (5.11+)
By: m-earle When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: Wow. That looks awesome


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Horizontal Mambo (5.12d)
By: m-earle When: Mar 24, 2012

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Comments: I believe I did the FFA on this one (nov 2010). The bolt twists out from people hanging on the route I would guess. Glue-ins would work well for this pitch. Press out the mantle at the end, or no send!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: m-earle When: Mar 14, 2012

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Comments: On my USGS map of Canyonlands, this canyon is called 'Harts Draw'

m


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: m-earle When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Updated speed record- 3 minutes 25 seconds by Brad Gobright


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Phantom (5.13- R) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Jun 1, 2011

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Comments: Brad, that is a really good photo you took of me!

Photo: Brad Gobright


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Hot Pork Sundae (5.13)
By: m-earle When: Apr 21, 2011

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Comments: After a few days of work this spring, I was able to send the second pitch of this line. The first pitch was 30m long. The second pitch is 40m and felt like hard 5.13. For the second pitch, i used 4 red camalots, 7 green, 2purple, 2grey, 1 blue. This is a truly awesome pitch.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : One Man Sex Party (5.12c)
By: m-earle When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: Dear Mountainproject,

I am saddened that you censored Eric's playful simile from his route description. I believe that his description was well within the Mountainproject guidelines for appropriate language and attitude. While I understand the site trying to avoid PG-13 content, the people of this country have fought too hard to gain the right to freedom of speech for this sort of censorship to happen. What are we as Americans if we are not free? What do we have left when our freedom is taken ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : The Price of Evil (5.13-)
By: m-earle When: Jan 10, 2011

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Comments: Devin,

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with your interesting writing style, but it certainly made for a cruxy read! That aside, in the course of trying this route I didn't once leave gear in overnight.

Also, I appreciate your concern about sensitive areas. I put a lot of thought into wether or not to try this route, and ultimately decided that it was perfectly acceptable. First of all, the closest petroglyph to the base of this climb is about 40 feet away. On top of that, the r... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Pioneer Route (5.7 C0)
By: m-earle When: Jan 4, 2011

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Comments: I believe the solo speed record for the pioneer route is currently 3m30sec. Time starts at the beginning of the fourth class, ends at the summit. GET IT!


Location: MA : Cape Ann
By: m-earle When: Jan 4, 2011

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Comments: The Driven Boulder....



Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : The Price of Evil (5.13-) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Dec 2, 2010

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Comments: Thats all that seems to be left these days.


Location: International : South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : El Piramidal
By: m-earle When: Dec 1, 2010

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Comments: There is a DOPE 5.11ish roof crack two pitches up this thing. Dont know the name, but a must if you're doing a frey trip.


Location: International : South America : Chile : Torres Del Paine : "Hasta Chonchi" East Face T... (5.11 A2+ R)
By: m-earle When: Nov 18, 2010

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Comments: Amazing! thanks for the pics!


Location: International : South America : Chile : Torres Del Paine
By: m-earle When: Nov 18, 2010

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Comments: Some random beta...
I think the cheapest way to get to Puerto Natales (from the states) is to fly to Buenos aires (rather than Santiago) then fly to either Rio Gallegos or El Calafate, then 5 hrs or so in the bus to Natales. About 1100USD round trip. In Natales I would recommend staying at the Kaweskar hostel. Omar (who runs the place) is super cool, loves climbers (and speaks english if your a true gringo). Paine is incomprehensibly sick.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : The Price of Evil (5.13-)
By: m-earle When: Nov 17, 2010

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Comments: I didn't add this buttress because there are so many petroglyphs at the base. Many of the climbs here (not including this one thankfully) have petroglyphs near, or on their bases. It probably doesn't matter, but there really aren't many worthwhile- everyday routes here anyways. Just my thoughts.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Salathe Wall (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: Yes, I have done both said pitches. If you so much as break a sweat on big baby, the monster will make you cry.


Location: ME : Shagg Crag
By: m-earle When: Aug 25, 2010

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Comments: Maybe its just me, but after a 3 hour, meandering drive from conway, I'm inclined to believe the the directions here were not quite right. Here are mine. I you follow them, I promise you will not get as lost as I did...

Take rt 26 towards West Paris, turn east onto 219. After 4.8 miles, turn left onto Tuell Hill Rd. After 1.6 miles take a left, continuing on Tuell Hill rd. After .9 miles, Tuell Hill rd. ends. Take a left on Reading. After 3.9/4 miles, there is a pullout on the left. Park here,... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Air Swedin (5.13 R) : Photo
By: m-earle When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: Hahahaha!!!! I thought I had totally biffed the shot, but its actually pretty funny!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unknown OW (bombay flare le... (5.11-)
By: m-earle When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: Is this lobotomy?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Six Star Wall : Six Star Crack (5.13-)
By: m-earle When: Dec 8, 2009

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Comments: In Nov 09, there was a rats nest of crispy faded slings up there. If you plan on heading up, think about replacing the old webbing with some chains or rings.

m


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