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Member Since: Sep 1, 2012
Last Visit: Oct 4, 2014
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Point Rank: # 13,430
Total Points: 12
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lundy Bancroft been climbing?










Contributions


All 40 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 9 | Stars 5 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Whip-Stocking (5.11a)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Wonderful movement. I find this route a little easier than either Fire and Brimstone or Breakfast Burrito, but I also watched a couple of people climb it before my turn.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Volunteer Wall : Pinkies Extended (5.10c)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Wonderful newer route. I recommend it highly -- one of my favorites from my recent trip to RRG.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : Sign of the Choss : Choss Training (V3)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Yes. Maybe the photo was backwards.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : Osterizer (V2)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this is Ostracizer. How do we get it corrected? And I agree that it is now harder than V2 -- pulling the lip is now really hard.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : Rembrandt Pussyhorse (V4)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Jan 9, 2014

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Comments: This climb has a wonderful knee bar in it that makes the grade feel more like V2 to me. I did this climb without that much trouble and I've never even sent a V3, much less V4.


Location: NH : Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Apocalypse Later (5.11c/d)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Just a minor sidelight to this thread, but have to throw in that I love Sir Edmund Drillary and don't get why people are so negative about that climb. (Referring to what iBolt wrote up above.) Maybe it's improving with time, getting cleaner and less sharp. But the main thing I guess is that taste is just super variable. Looking forward to working Apocalypse.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Sir Edmond Drillary (5.11a)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I'm not sure what you mean about "skirting the roof". After clipping the bolt in the roof, you traverse under the roof for just a few moves until the little notch, and that's where you pull it. If you move too far right before pulling the roof, you'll find that once you're up and over it the next bolt is too far to your left (this happened to a friend of mine). This is a very cool climb by the way, underrated.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Know Ethics (5.11a)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I just climbed it and it has quick clips on it now.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Far From Feral (5.10a)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Does FFF share anchors with The Maltese (or Milquetoast) Falcon?


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Flying Squirrel (5.11a)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: Don't be afraid to try this route. The swing out is unusual but feels fine once you try it if you get the right holds before lifting your feet off the ledge. Then it's only about three hard moves up from there to a good hold, foot placements, and a rest, and then easier traveling follows.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Junco (5.8+)
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: I just heard that a big section at the bottom of The Junco (bottom two bolts) just fell off. Does anyone know if this is true? And if so, did it affect Lonesome Dove or Hammond Organ? (This may be a rumor from people who were confusing Junco with Jolt -- although they were saying the bottom of the route fell off, not the top. I still haven't heard whether this really happened or not.) UPDATE: Nothing happened at Junco. Whoever said that was obviously confusing it with Jolt, although even so the... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney
By: Lundy Bancroft When: Sep 1, 2012

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Comments: We were climbing on Orangahang at Orange Crush on August 30th and another climber pointed out to us that one of the hanging draws had a really sharp carabiner on it. In view of the July incident, seems like it would be a good idea to watch for that draw and not use it.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
FOUND at Farley: La Sportiva shoes and red chalk bagLost and FoundLundy BancroftApr 2, 2014
re: Not all who belay can belay General ClimbingLundy BancroftMar 17, 2014
Looking for climbing partners Chattanooga area Feb. 16-22Southern StatesLundy BancroftFeb 11, 2014
re: Chattanooga area February 17-21Eastern and Southern StatesLundy BancroftJan 30, 2014
Chattanooga area February 17-21Eastern and Southern StatesLundy BancroftJan 27, 2014
re: Anyone know the oldest climbers to send hard routes?General ClimbingLundy BancroftMay 20, 2013
re: Anyone know the oldest climbers to send hard routes?General ClimbingLundy BancroftMay 14, 2013
Anyone know the oldest climbers to send hard routes?General ClimbingLundy BancroftMay 13, 2013
re: Left a carabiner at FarleyLost and FoundLundy BancroftMay 13, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Rembrandt Pussyhorse V4 6B

TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Dragon's Den

Nobody Here Gets Out Alive V2 5+

TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : The Grenade

Purple Microdot 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Prime Climb 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Pinkies Extended 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Volunteer Wall

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Prime Climb

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Sir Edmond Drillary

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Breakfast Burrito

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Drive-By Crag

Whip-Stocking

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Drive-By Crag

Goldbug

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Main Cliff

Pinkies Extended

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Volunteer Wall

Purple Microdot

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner)

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Egg McMeadows

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall

Arugula, Arugula

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Mom's Pancake

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

NH : Rumney : ... : Center Section

Rembrandt Pussyhorse

V4 6B

V3 6A

TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Dragon's Den

Seam Eliminate

V3 6A

V2+ 5+

TN : Stone Fort (aka Little Rock...

Nobody Here Gets Out Alive

V2 5+

V2 5+

TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : The Grenade

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