Mantel Illness

5.10+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

Flash. Cruiser jamming to a trikcy sequential face sequence.

5 days ago

Mad Dog

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

Flash. Cool moves below the roof lead to a pumpy thin hands finish.

5 days ago

Twitch

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

TR Flash. Awkward/thrutchy wide hands roof to fun laybacking.

6 days ago

Wavy Gravy

5.10 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

OS. Crazy crack with challenging steep sections. FUN!

6 days ago

Way Of The Gun

5.12 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

TR. Many Hangs for the top section. Hard reach moves. Stemming might help... Cool!

6 days ago

Sicilian

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

OS. Short but powerful. 2nd crack switch was hard for me. Cool route!

6 days ago

Anunnaki

5.11c 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

OS. Totally Unique climbing. Steep, pumpy and totally awesome!

Nov 22, 2009

Long Island Iced Ted

5.10+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

OS. A good warmup that is not as bad as it looks. Cool Laybacking. Thin finish!

Nov 22, 2009

Soul Fire

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

TR Repeat. Feels easier. Jams at the end may have gotten bigger...

Nov 22, 2009

Johnny Cat

5.11+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

RP. 3rd try on lead. Chill off fingers with feet to a tough finish!

Nov 21, 2009

Pit Bull Terror

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

RP 2nd try after breaking a foot and falling on my 1st go. Very physical to the end.

Nov 21, 2009

Pope's Crack

5.9 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Echo Rock - South Face

OS. Awkward jamming to a fun traverse and a cool finish.

Nov 14, 2009

The Acid Crack

5.12d 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Arid Piles

2 tries on TR. Killer movement with some kneebars! Super Steep.

Nov 14, 2009

29 Palms

5.11d 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Arid Piles

2 Attempts on TR. Very cool stemming and palming. Gear looks good but thin.

Nov 14, 2009

Bloody Tax Break

5.10b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : IRS Wall

1 fall due to ripping a hold off this route. Fun climbing but poor rock quality.

Nov 13, 2009

Tax Man

5.10a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : IRS Wall

TR Flash. Fun but didn't live up to the hype. More of a face climb than a crack route.

Nov 13, 2009

Alf's Arete

5.11a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : IRS Wall

RP 1st try on lead after working on TR. Amazing movement, cool holds, and spaced protection.

Nov 13, 2009

Loose Lady

5.10a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Houser Buttress Area

OS. Classic J-Tree edging with far spaced bolts.

Oct 25, 2009

Hidden Arch

5.11d 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Houser Buttress Area

RP. 3rd try. Onsight attempt TRing the Crux. Unique route, quite crimpy!

Oct 24, 2009

Right Long's Crack

5.11 

CA : San Diego County : ... : Seminar Wall Area

First try today... on TR. Amazing! 3rd day trying. Repeated 5 mins later. Cool weather helps!

Oct 21, 2009

Mai Tai

5.10+ R 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Alcohol Wall

Flash after sussing gear on Rappel. Lots of thin nuts! Awesome!

Oct 18, 2009

Rob Roy

5.10b 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Alcohol Wall

Flash after sussing gear on rappel. Outstanding! Best route on the wall. Ground fall potential at the start...

Oct 18, 2009

Gin Ricky

5.10c 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Alcohol Wall

Clean as a 2nd. Fun thin fingers but doesn't climb as well as it looks. Very sustained.

Oct 18, 2009

The Original Route

5.12 

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Rainbow Wall

Amazing! 1 Fall on the 1st RedDihedral pitches. OS all other pitches leading everything over 5.11b & last two pitches. W/ Roberto. 8 hrs on route, 1.5 to rap

Oct 17, 2009

The Tube

5.11a 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Onsight. Laybacked the crux. Didn't want to fall. A bit runout and too many knobs to hit...

Oct 3, 2009

G-Man

5.11b 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Hangdog. Took me a few tries to figure out the crux. Linked with Dano

Oct 3, 2009

Book'em, Dano

5.10d 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Hang Dog. Couldn't make the final reach. I'm only 5' 8' and was too scared to jump...

Oct 3, 2009

Knuckleheads

5.10c 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Onsight. Tricky at 3rd bolt for sure. I went right... Was a bit warm in the morning sun.

Oct 3, 2009

Skinheads

5.10d 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Onsight! Thought provoking and well protected slab and knob climbing. Runout at the end...

Oct 3, 2009

Underclingon

5.12a 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Repoint on lead 2nd go. Flash/Onsight 1st try on TR

Oct 3, 2009

The Flakes

5.11 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes

Pinkpoint. Fell on 1st and 3rd pitch but lowered and did both 2nd try. OS 2nd pitch (linked with P1) and price of fear finish.

Sep 27, 2009

Angel's Fright

5.5 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Center (Flintst...

S-S with Josh. Fun!

Sep 27, 2009

The Consolation

5.9 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northwest Recess

OS. Amazing jamming! So much fun!

Sep 27, 2009

Stairway to Heaven

5.12a/b 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes

Hangdog. 1st & 2nd pitch (we linked them) clean on follow. 3rd pitch did all the moves but didn't link them as a 2nd

Sep 27, 2009

The Vampire

5.11a 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes

Repeat. Followed all pitches clean. Fun!

Sep 26, 2009

Fingertrip

5.7 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side

OS FS. A bit spooky. Crazy laybacking

Sep 25, 2009

Pratt's Crack

5.9 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Pratt's Crack/Dihedrals Are...

OS. Brought way too much gear. Lots of arete holds. FUN!

Sep 21, 2009

South West Face (Harding) Route

5.10c 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Conness

Onsight. Did in 6.5 pitches with a 70m rope. 11:35 CTC via Sawmill/Saddlebag

Sep 20, 2009

Scirocco

5.12- 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

TR. Insecure but brilliant moves and amazing position. I need to go back for the lead!

Sep 7, 2009

Tradewinds

5.11 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

OS. Awesome granite crimping with some tricky cruxes.

Sep 7, 2009

Spook Book

5.10+ R 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Witch

OS. First pitch is the most serious before you clip the bolt. 2nd, 4th pitches are very sustained.

Sep 6, 2009

Pyromania

5.13a/b PG13 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

TR. The dyno/lunge was a a no go for me. Crazy underclinging at the end. Trust your smears!

Sep 5, 2009

Atlantis

5.11+ PG13 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

Flash. One of my Favs at the Needles. Each pitch is awesome and links spectacular features.

Sep 5, 2009

Lost at Sea

5.10d 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

OS. Cool feature. The middle moves felt hard. I doubt gear at the end would hold due to the expando flake

Sep 5, 2009

Flame Thrower

5.11c 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Moustache Wall

OS. Tricky moves at the roof. Very fun start!

Aug 22, 2009

The Megaplex

5.11c 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Moustache Wall

OS. Lead P1, P3. Follwed P2 clean. Amazing line. Wonderful crimpy climbing. Killer exposure!!!

Aug 22, 2009

Positive Vibrations

5.11a 

CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk

RP of P3,4 and OS of the pitches we missed the first time. The final splitter was AMAZING!

Aug 10, 2009

Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil")

5.10 

CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk

Repeat. ~10 hours tent to tent (right below the Hulk) with ~7 hours on route.

Aug 9, 2009

Mary Jane

5.11b 

NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff

OS. Cool climbing on pockets and jugs. Pumpy to the end.

Aug 3, 2009

The Cathedral Route

5.11c 

NV : Mt. Charleston : Cathedral Rock

OS leading all pitches. Amazing position and great climbing! So Fun!

Aug 2, 2009

Pine In The Ass

5.10b 

NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff

OS. Pumpy and fun. Good warmup!

Jul 31, 2009

Insane in the Brain

5.10a 

NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff

OS. Tricky Slab climbing.

Jul 31, 2009

Insane in the Membrane

5.11a 

NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff

RP 2nd try. Super thin crimpy climbing. Missed a hold at the start on the OS attempt...

Jul 31, 2009

Positive Vibrations

5.11a 

CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk

OS Leading P1,2,6,7 and following the rest clean. Did an 11 variation finish.

Jul 4, 2009

Gumby

5.10b 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS. Tricky moves right off the ground on small crimps. Much easier when you know where the holds are.

Jun 28, 2009

Zebra Direct

5.11a 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS. Climbing seemed hard when your feet are well above the 2nd bolt. Don't fall :-D

Jun 28, 2009

Lion Zion

5.10c 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS. Linked with Zebra Direct. Fun edging forever!!

Jun 28, 2009

Morning Sky

5.10c 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS of the Extension after OS of gumby on a prior send. Had an awkward clip near the end.

Jun 28, 2009

Lion's Chair

5.11a R 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS to the 10c anchors. Seemed awkward and stiff for the grade.

Jun 28, 2009

Monkey Space

5.11b 

OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face

OS P1. 1 Hang on P2. Crazy exposure. Amazing position over the void!

Jun 27, 2009

Sunshine Dihedral

5.11d PG13 

OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals

Totally Killer Stemming. WOW! Flash on TR. Not my style.

Jun 26, 2009

Toxic

5.11b 

OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully

RP. 2nd try. Kinda reachy. Grab the jugs and fight the pump!

Jun 26, 2009

Barbecue The Pope

5.10b 

OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers

RP. Repeat. Kinda slick but fun continuous crimping.

Jun 26, 2009

Wartley's Revenge

5.11a/b 

OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers

RP. Placed all gear on lead. 2nd Try overall. Pretty pumpy

Jun 26, 2009

Pioneer Route

5.7 C0 

OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face

Did an Aider and Ascender free ascent (ie pulling on draws) and tyroleaned out of the cave.

Jun 25, 2009

West Face Variation

5.8 C0 

OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face

Linked to Bohn street in on 80 m pitch with simuling. Used the 5.8 start and corner variations.

Jun 25, 2009

Torrid Zone

5.12a 

OR : Smith Rock : ... : Left Side

RP. 2nd try on lead 3rd overall. Crazy fun moves on big holds!!

Jun 24, 2009

5 Gallon Buckets

5.8 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS. A good cool down for the end of a summer day since it gets evening shade.

Jun 22, 2009

The Outsiders

5.9 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS. fun and not too hard. A few slabby moves mixed in with the buckets.

Jun 22, 2009

Freebase

5.12a 

OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

RP 2nd go of the day 3rd try overall. Fun easy moves to a long crimpy boulder problem.

Jun 21, 2009

Bloodshot

5.11c 

OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

OS. Fun climbing with closely spaced bolts on low quality rock. Good rests.

Jun 21, 2009

Overboard

5.11c 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS to the 11a/b anchor. Reachy crux to an awkward clip and an excellent rockover at the end.

Jun 21, 2009

Powder Up the Nose

5.10d 

OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

Onsight. Crimp hard and keep your head. The bolts are a bit spaced at the crux.

Jun 21, 2009

Nine Gallon Buckets

5.10c 

OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

OS. Crux was getting to the high first bolt. Only climbed to the first anchors (5.9).

Jun 21, 2009

Valhalla

5.11a 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side

RP. Sent P1 1st try on Lead. Did P2 2nd try on lead(4th overall). OS Sundike finish.

Jun 14, 2009

Miscalculation

5.10c 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : South Face

OS. Very sustained with lots of nuts and thin gear. Hard for the grade.

Jun 14, 2009

Disco Jesus

5.11b 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : South Face

Followed. Did all pitches clean expect for a bit of A0 to get established on the 2nd pitch.

Jun 14, 2009

More Monkey than Funky

5.11b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : More Monkey than Funky Rock

Pinkpoint. Preplaced gear then clipped on lead. 5th try, 1 Day. Lots of Tension!

May 2, 2009

Scary Poodles

5.11b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...

RP 2nd try on Lead. Briefly TRed the top crux. Super Pumpy. Fun face climbing!!

Apr 18, 2009

The Importance Of Being Ernest

5.10c/d R 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...

RP 1st try on lead. Did on TR 4 times over 2 visits. Thin gear and a NO fall section.

Apr 18, 2009

Slap Happy

V3 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Wavy Gravy Area

So Fun!!!

Apr 12, 2009

Prepackaged

5.10a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...

OS. Fun finger locks to a nice tight hands crack.

Apr 5, 2009

Overseer

5.9 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...

OS. Easy face climbing to a tricky crack crux near the top.

Apr 5, 2009

Wangerbanger

5.11c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Rusty Wall

Onsight. Fun climbing and a tricky thin hands crux. FUN!

Mar 21, 2009

Pigs In Space

5.10+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Onsight. Cold in the morning and a bit sandy. Fun variety of sizes!

Mar 14, 2009

Crack Attack

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Onsight! Tricky bottom to fun and pumpy thin hands!

Mar 14, 2009

Swedin-Ringle

5.12- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Pinkpoint. Clean Lead with some preplaced gear. Clipping the anchor was hard for sure.

Mar 14, 2009

Ruins Crack

5.10+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Onsight. Cool climbing on an interesting feature with good rests.

Mar 14, 2009

Skidmarks

5.10- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Onsight. Thin at the start. Amazingly pumpy for a 40 foot route.

Mar 12, 2009

Spaghetti Western

5.11+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Onsight. Fun wide hands through the bulge. It just keeps going! Wanted a 2nd 1 for the top...

Mar 12, 2009

Wounded Knee

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Onsight. Tricky move by the wide spot. You can place a 3 to protect the crux if you reach high.

Mar 12, 2009

Short and Stupid

5.8+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Flashed. Ok warmup. Good for working on thin hands.

Mar 12, 2009

Rump Roast II

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

TR flash. Hard climbing off the ground to a good rest. Save up for the final thin hands crux.

Mar 12, 2009

Revenge of the Rock Gods

5.10d 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Onsight. This route has cool features and a hard section after the ledge.

Mar 12, 2009

Dusty Trails to Nowhere

5.10 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Onsight. Easy hand and wide hand jams up a corner. Could be a good warmup.

Mar 12, 2009

Coyne Crack Simulator

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Pistol Whipped

Flashed. A couple of hard thin hand jams before it eases up. Tricky for sure!

Mar 12, 2009

Puma

5.12- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

2 falls on Lead. Tricky crux at the end. Best not to get pumped.

Mar 11, 2009

Deseret Moon

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

Onsight via left start. Hand crack is SOOO good! Will come back for direct start.

Mar 11, 2009

unknown - route 7

5.10 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

Onsight. Used the smallest C3's to protect the Tips start.

Mar 11, 2009

Kool Cat

5.11a 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

4 falls on Lead. Lots of laybacking at the start. Plenty of rests with a thin crux at the end.

Mar 11, 2009

Soul Fire

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Flashed. Red Camalots forever. I placed 7! Pumpy at the top with tight handjams.

Mar 9, 2009

Unknown B

5.10 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Onsight. Felt pretty hard when the crack narrows down.

Mar 9, 2009

Lady Pillar

5.10- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Onsight. Fun warmup with a spicy finger crack move near the bottom.

Mar 9, 2009

Hayutake (AKA "Heyduke Lives")

5.10+ PG13 

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator

Onsight. Super fun/tricky traverse to killer wide hands.

Mar 9, 2009

Generic Crack

5.9+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon

Onsight! So fun I did another lap! Hands forever with some funky pods.

Mar 9, 2009

Ladies First

5.10a 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Original Meat Wall

Onsight. Cool climbing and a good warmup. Thin at the bottom.

Mar 8, 2009

Tofu Crack

5.10- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Original Meat Wall

Onsight. Thin hands or laybacking to a good rest. Then easier climbing until the ledge crux.

Mar 8, 2009

Fatted Calf

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Sacred Cow Wall

Onsight. Nice and pumpy thin hands. Hard at the top.

Mar 8, 2009

Wee Doggie

5.10- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Original Meat Wall

Onsight. Tricky but enjoyable start to a fun corner. Worth the walk!

Mar 8, 2009

Unnamed

5.10c 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Original Meat Wall

Onsight. Wide hands in a corner. A bit awkward at times but fun. Starts on a big block.

Mar 8, 2009

Glitter Gulch

5.11b 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Sweet Pain Wall

OS. Awkward crux. Fairly easy climbing overall.

Feb 28, 2009

Slave to the Grind

5.11c 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Sweet Pain Wall

OS. Tricky climbing to a good ledge. Finish on steep jugs!

Feb 28, 2009

Minstrel in the Gallery

5.12b 

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Gallery

RP. 2nd try from the Ledge (12a).

Jan 11, 2009

Yaak Crack

5.11d 

NV : Red Rock : ... : The Gallery

Flashed. Super Pumpy!!

Jan 10, 2009

Adrenaline

5.12b 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Right of the Roof

RP. Crazy moves. Too bad its so short.

Dec 13, 2008

Tangerine Dream

5.11a 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Right of the Roof

RP. Fun! Getting slicker with all the traffic

Dec 13, 2008

House of Pain

5.12a/b 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Right of the Roof

Nice to RP this after trying it so long ago. Sweet Quarry Crimpin

Dec 13, 2008

Equinox

5.12c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Jerry's Quarry

Pinkpoint. No falls on lead. 10 days of effort in 2 years.

Dec 7, 2008

Equinox

5.12c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Jerry's Quarry

Clean on TR. 2 Falls on Lead.

Nov 16, 2008

Hot Rocks

5.11b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Rock Hudson

RP. 3rd try. 1st go on lead. Amazing Line. One of my favorites at J-tree.

Nov 10, 2008

Clean And Jerk

5.10c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Sports Challenge Rock-East ...

RP. A bit easier this time and more FUN.

Nov 9, 2008

Buissonier

5.7 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - Southeast Face

Fun jamming on smooth rock.

Nov 8, 2008

Surrealistic Pillar

5.10c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - East Face

Onsight. Weird start to a fun hand crack. Did left finish.

Nov 8, 2008

Perpetual Motion

5.10d 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Perpetual Motion Wall

Onsight. Great Jamming! Good Length for J-Tree

Nov 7, 2008

Culture Shock

5.11c 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Left of the Roof

RP 2nd go. Hard balancy start on slopers to easy climbing. Save energy for a high crimp crux.

Nov 1, 2008

Nostalgia

5.11c 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Roof Area

Flash. Interesting climbing with a couple of cruxes to keep it exciting.

Nov 1, 2008

Exorcist

5.10a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hall of Horrors - East Wall...

Onsight. Slipery start. Good Locks. Fun face moves!

Oct 26, 2008

Heart of Darkness

5.11a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Conrad Rock

RP. Short but sweet. Thin hands!!! So Fun!

Oct 25, 2008

Upper Right Ski Track

5.3 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Intersection Rock

FUN! Easy moves without too much thrutching. Safe as well. Linked with lower right ski track

Oct 25, 2008

Lower Right Ski Track

5.10 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Intersection Rock

OS. Easier than Left Ski Track. Gear above the bolt is marginal and the crux is short.

Oct 25, 2008

Semi Tough

5.10d 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Gateway Rock

Onsight! Thin tricky start to easier climbing.

Oct 25, 2008

Martin Quits

5.10c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Gateway Rock

RP. Tricky locks with bad feet. Don't place gear in the good fingerlocks.

Oct 25, 2008

Cloud Tower

5.12- 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Cloud Tower

Onsight! The two 5.11 pitches were HARD! Great Route!

Oct 18, 2008

Only the Good Die Young

5.11c 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Whiskey Peak

Onsight. Tricky crimp move on P4. Make sure to take the Right fork in the gully.

Oct 17, 2008

Insomnia

5.11b 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks

Pinkpoint. After falling I lowered and cleaned most of the gear. I did it 2nd try on lead, 5 total.

Oct 10, 2008

Hardly Wallbanger

5.10c 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Pub Wall

OS. Fairly Slick from use. Steep climbing with occasional crack moves.

Oct 5, 2008

Hammered

5.11b 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Pub Wall

OS. Pumpy Climbing with big reaches on jugs. Fun!

Oct 5, 2008

Abitafun

5.9 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Pub Wall

OS. Long chossy jug pulling. Tricky traverse at the end.

Oct 5, 2008

Abitarot

5.10a 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Pub Wall

OS. Don't fall! Well spaced bolts but they are right where you need them.

Oct 5, 2008

Hungover

5.11b 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : The Pub Wall

OS. Pulling the roof wasn't too hard. Pump crux at the top for me.

Oct 5, 2008

Lalaland

5.11c 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Faulty Tower

RP 2nd go. Pumpy climbing to a hard section on the headwall. Also tricky right before anchor.

Oct 4, 2008

Expressway

5.11b 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Social Platform

OS. Thin continuous crimping. Relax and try not to get too pumped.

Oct 4, 2008

Grindrite

5.11b 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Gotham City

Onsight! Super Fun. Nice variety of moves.

Oct 3, 2008

Flex Your Head

5.11c 

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Gotham City

RP. 2nd Go. Tricky sequential climbing off the ground gains an easier upper section. Keep your balance!

Oct 3, 2008

The Vampire

5.11a 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes

Onsight via direct start! Led all pitches, so happy!

Sep 27, 2008

Control Freak

5.13a 

CA : Riverside County : ... : The Shield

RP!! 10 tries, 3 days Hard!

Sep 13, 2008

Exfoliator

5.11c 

CA : Riverside County : ... : The Shield

Flashed. Used silly beta at the 4th bolt.. Fun!

Sep 13, 2008

Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil")

5.10 

CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk

16.5 hours Car to car. 8 Hours on route. Super Windy.

Aug 31, 2008

Third Pillar (Regular Route)

5.10- 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Mt. Dana & the Dana Plateau

7.5 hours car to car. Excellent route on perfect rock. Tricky decent to base of route.

Aug 30, 2008

Meager and Weak

5.12c 

CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Pink Wall

Redpoint about 8 tries. My hardest yet!

Aug 24, 2008

Restrain This

5.11b 

CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Pink Wall

RP 3rd try. Easy climbing with a much harder crux. Super reachy, get your feet HIGH!

Aug 24, 2008

The Imaginator

5.11c 

NV : Mt. Charleston : ... : Central Slab Area

RP P1. Super fun climbing with great variety. Pumpy!!!

Aug 9, 2008

Heating Up the Hood

5.11c 

NV : Mt. Charleston : ... : Pine Tree Ledge

Onsight! After an easy start the crux is a traverse right on pockets on glassy feet.

Aug 8, 2008

Across the Universe

5.11c 

NV : Mt. Charleston : ... : The Corrosion Cave

Flash. Cool traverse. A bit reachy with slippery feet and quite pumpy!

Aug 8, 2008

Redrum

5.11c 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Right of the Roof

OS. Hard start to easier climbing after the roof.

Aug 2, 2008

Violator

5.11c 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Taboo Area

Onsight. Tricky middle crux to crimps. Cool!

Jul 26, 2008

Original Sin

5.11b 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Taboo Area

RP 2nd Go. Long reaches on nice big holds.

Jul 26, 2008

Black Mamba

5.11b/c 

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

RP to the first anchor. Second part was seaping.

Jul 10, 2008

Technosurfing

5.12b 

NH : Rumney : Waimea

Done! Very fun. Red Point!

Jul 10, 2008

Flying Hawaiian

5.11b 

NH : Rumney : Waimea

Super Tricky climb. Gotta love the Rumney Topouts...

Jul 10, 2008

Captain Hook

5.12a 

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Hard start on crimps! Red Point

Jul 10, 2008

Witch Doctor

5.10a 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Witch

Did in 3.5 Pitches. A 70m rope would have been nice to avoid relocating the belay.

Jul 5, 2008

Fancy Free

5.10 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Charlatan

Amazing Locks on P2. Nice to do some straight in jamming. A favorite at the needles.

Jul 5, 2008

Spooky

5.9 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Charlatan

Flashed. Did in one long pitch. Rap in, climb out :-D

Jul 5, 2008

Ice Pirates

5.11b 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

Hard last moves on tricky gear. Save a Yellow alien for the end. Need to go back and RP

Jul 4, 2008

Magic Dragon

5.8 R 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Magician

Lots of loose rock on P1 and P2 belays. Very runout but easy upper pitches

Jun 28, 2008

Thin Ice

5.10b 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer

First pitch is stunning! Second pitch is awkward and physical.

Jun 27, 2008

Airy Interlude

5.10b 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Witch

Team Onsight. First pitch is a bit weird.

Jun 26, 2008

Poof

5.7+ R 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Magician

A great easy route. Exciting runouts!

Jun 26, 2008

Delirious

5.11b 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Roof Area

Flashed. Fun pumpy moves. Cool Holds.

Jun 15, 2008

Salutations

5.11c 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Roof Area

Flashed. Cool crimp crux to tricky sloper climbing

Jun 15, 2008

Balrog

5.12b 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Roof Area

RP 2nd Try. Key was being relaxed and committing to the crux.

Jun 15, 2008

Super Pooper

5.10a/b 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Upper Bulge Routes

We did it in 3 Long Pitches. Felt hard though it was mainly just tricky. Crazy Bulges. Onsight!

Jun 1, 2008

Johnny Quest

5.10b 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Wall Routes

Short but superb thin fingers! Onsight!

May 31, 2008

Flower of High Rank

5.9 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Wall Routes

Onsight! Climbed in one pitch. Took right crack and it was tricky pulling the roof.

May 31, 2008

Etude

5.11a 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Wall Routes

Clean on TR. Failed lead, had to aid through crux.

May 31, 2008

Graham Crackers

5.6 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Wall Routes

Fun. Just doing a bit of mileage. Had to simul a tad to do in a 70m pitch.

May 31, 2008

Yours

5.7 

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northeast Wall Routes

5.7 ? Did in one 70m pitch with a touch of simuling. Careful of loose rock after the midway anchors.

May 31, 2008

Urban Struggle

5.12a/b 

CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Ghetto Wall

2nd go. Fun reachy sequence through good pockets. Took the left exit since it seemed more obvious.

May 4, 2008

Slashface

V3 R 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Slash Boulder

TALL! One crux move then it is over.

Apr 7, 2008

The Bendix Claws

5.11a 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Future Games Rock

Redpoint. Preplaced 1 HB offset to avoid deck potential, clipped it on lead.

Apr 5, 2008

Swedin-Ringle

5.12- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

TR Flash. FUN!! The crux is right before the anchors.

Mar 29, 2008

Disco Machine Gun

5.12 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

HARD!! 2nd try on TR. Amazing route. Bad rock at the end.

Mar 29, 2008

Scarface

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

Onsight! Thin hands with a hard move into the first pod!

Mar 29, 2008

Polygrip

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth

Clean TR. Lead with a few falls. Cool poddy thin hands to good rest to fingers corner to off fingers roof.

Mar 28, 2008

Inflictor

5.12- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth

TR - Fell at tips layback crux. After a few tries to figure out the move I did it clean to the top.

Mar 28, 2008

unnamed

5.10+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth

Followed Clean. Super fun. Long with a sting at the end!

Mar 28, 2008

Pente

5.11- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall

Completed the lead after partner ran out of gear. I lead the top thin section after TRing the first half.

Mar 28, 2008

Rock Lobster

5.11b 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth

Failed OS. Fun hand crack to hard finger stack finish. Good rests

Mar 28, 2008

Slot Machine

5.11 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall

Onsight. The top half is 2 camalots now.

Mar 27, 2008

Keyhole Flake

5.10 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

OS. Brought wrong gear but finished it anyways. Fun fist crack in the middle, tons of feet.

Mar 26, 2008

Supercrack of the Desert

5.10 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

Onsight! Weird crux to reach the base of the crack. Huge pods for feet!

Mar 26, 2008

Incredible Hand Crack

5.10c 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

Onsight! Perfect hands with great rests!

Mar 26, 2008

Fingers In A Lightsocket

5.11+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

Dog on Lead. Foot slipped before final crux. Super fun and pumpy with a trickey end crux.

Mar 26, 2008

Blue Sun

5.10- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

Onsight. So FUN. Perfect Hands to cups with a good rest

Mar 25, 2008

Way Rambo

5.12- 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Way Rambo

2nd Try on TR. Nice wavy hand crack thinning to Hard finger stack finish. Would be an exciting lead.

Mar 25, 2008

Digital Readout

5.12b/c 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

First try on TR as soon as I got off the ground. Thin = FUN!

Mar 23, 2008

Think Pink

5.11a 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Onsight! Big Cupped Hands!

Mar 23, 2008

Coarse and Buggy

5.11a/b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Dihedral Rock

Onsight. Used traverse to start. Super Fun! Great rests and excellent climbing.

Mar 9, 2008

Johnny Vegas

5.6 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Lower Tier

Linked to Solar Slab

Feb 23, 2008

Solar Slab

5.6 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Fun, Long, Exciting!

Feb 23, 2008

Cat in the Hat

5.6 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mescalito

Climbed first 4 pitches and then rapped due to darkness and cold.

Feb 21, 2008

Birdland

5.7+ 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Brass Wall

Excellent!! Very fun with comfortable belays!

Feb 21, 2008

Eagle Dance

5.10 A1 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Eagle Wall

Amazing Route, super fun and very sustained. The 2 pitches after the Aid are quite tricky!

Feb 9, 2008

Sundog

5.9 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Interesting moves and Varied Climbing

Feb 8, 2008

Johnny Vegas

5.6 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Lower Tier

Simuled. Fun Moves!

Feb 8, 2008

Sunflower

5.9 R 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Classic, Sustained and Exciting!!

Feb 8, 2008

SW Corner

5.6 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Headstone Rock

Onsight! In the cold, in a down jacket at sunset! CLASSIC

Dec 16, 2007

Walk on the Wild Side

5.8 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Saddle Rocks

Team Onsight. Kyle Led P1. I linked P2&3. All pitches were followed clean.

Dec 16, 2007

Toe Jam

5.7 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Old Woman - East Face

Onsight. Tricky for the grade. Polished by numerous Ascents

Dec 15, 2007

Judas

5.10c PG13 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Old Woman - East Face

RP. As soon as I made the first move off the ground I was able to finish the route.

Dec 15, 2007

Bearded Cabbage

5.10c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Old Woman - East Face

Flashed. Used the beta from the photos. Fun!!

Dec 15, 2007

Rubicon

5.10c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Rubicon Formation

Really fun route. What a great line and cool climbing!

Nov 10, 2007

O'Kelley's Crack

5.10c 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Rusty Wall

Weird start.... Then a super fun crack!

Nov 10, 2007

Levitation 29

5.11 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Eagle Wall

Super fun route! Hard but still got the onsight!

Nov 3, 2007

Dream of Wild Turkeys

5.10a 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall

OS to the big Ledge. Linked the first 2 pitches... Fun! More variety than PoD. Date Approx

Nov 2, 2007

Whip-Stocking

5.11a 

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Drive-By Crag

Flashed. Pumpy start to steep finish. Lots of knee bars and rests.

Oct 12, 2007

Check Your Grip

5.12a 

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Drive-By Crag

OS putting on the draws. So fun! Amazing Moves!

Oct 12, 2007

Spirit Fingers

5.11c 

KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Drive-By Crag

Flashed. Cool moves on great holds. A bit pumpy.

Oct 12, 2007

Crossfire

5.12a 

CA : High Desert : ... : Crossfire Crag

Onsight! First onsight of the grade! Sweet!

Oct 6, 2007

Death Before Decaf

5.12a 

CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Java Wall

RP 2nd go. Tricky crimp move after the 4th or so bolt. Cool!

Sep 22, 2007

Java

5.11d 

CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Java Wall

2nd go. Crazy mono move to a tricky crux. Dont pump out at the top!

Sep 15, 2007

Penny Lane

5.9 

International : Canada : ... : Penny Lane

Super Fun! Onsight

Sep 7, 2007

Crime Of The Century

5.11c 

International : Canada : ... : Penny Lane

Very thin and sustained. Onsight!

Sep 7, 2007

Angel's Crest

5.10b 

International : Canada : ... : The Sheriff's Badge

Team Onsight. Super fun long climb. Perfect weather no seaping!

Sep 6, 2007

Igor Unchained

5.9+ 

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Witch

Amazing hands! Sustained and very fun!

Aug 17, 2007

Metro

5.11a 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Metro Sector

Onsight. Easy climbing to harder crux. (date approximate)

Aug 11, 2007

Double Whammy

5.11a/b 

CA : Riverside County : ... : Right of the Roof

OS. Tricky Crux moves. (Date Approx)

Jul 21, 2007

Snake Dike

5.7 R 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Half Dome

Simuled in 2 blocks. sub 8 hours CTC with Lizzy. Date Approx during Summer 2007

Jun 4, 2007

Royal Arches

5.10a/b 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Royal Arches

Simuled in about 5 blocks. With Lizzy. Date Approx during Summer 2007

Jun 1, 2007

Johnny Cat

5.11+ 

UT : Moab Area : ... : Cat Wall

Hangdog. Onsight to final crux then flailed.

Mar 20, 2007

Stay the Hand

5.12a 

KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag

With a bit more endurance i got the Redpoint!

Oct 14, 2006

Tissue Tiger

5.12b 

KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall

Got pumped and blew the onsight... Next time!

Oct 13, 2006

Fuzzy Undercling

5.11- 

KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall

Super Fun! Flashed, great no hands rest! Bouldery start!!

Oct 13, 2006

Tropicana

5.11a 

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Team Onsight, I followed the first pitch clean and then lead the 2nd

Oct 1, 2006

Black Mamba

5.11b/c 

NH : Rumney : Orange Crush

Team OS. Followed P1 Clean, Lead P2 Onsight. Topped out in Rain!

Oct 1, 2006

Technosurfing

5.12b 

NH : Rumney : Waimea

Almost got the redpoint...

Sep 30, 2006

Barking Spiders

5.11c 

NH : Rumney : New Wave

OS. Cool rock and the crux is right before the end.

Sep 29, 2006

Weevil Knevil

5.12a 

NH : Rumney : New Wave

RP. Wet and Rainy. A fun intro to Rumney!

Sep 29, 2006

Even Steven

5.11b 

WA : Index Town Walls : Inner Walls

RP. Such a cool route. Great sequential locks and tricky stemming. Date Approx

Aug 5, 2006

Thin Fingers

5.11a 

WA : Index Town Walls : ... : Main Wall

Onsight. Summer 2006 Date Approx

Jul 23, 2006

Outer Space

5.9 

WA : Leavenworth : ... : Snow Creek Wall

Team Onsight! Oh the money pitch!

Jul 8, 2006

The Squamish Buttress

5.10c 

International : Canada : ... : Squamish Buttress

Fun Route! Approached Via Calc Crack. Crux pitch was thin and safe!

Jul 6, 2006

St. Vitus' Dance

5.9 

International : Canada : ... : The Apron

Team Onsight! (though we got really lost getting to the base...)

Jul 1, 2006

Exasperator

5.10c 

International : Canada : ... : Grand Wall Base Area

Linkup Redpoint.

Jun 24, 2006

Even Steven

5.11b 

WA : Index Town Walls : Inner Walls

TR Flash. Summer 06 - Date Approx

Jun 17, 2006

Toxic Shock

5.9 

WA : Index Town Walls : Inner Walls

OS. Amazing hand crack finish. Summer 06 Date Approx

Jun 10, 2006

Epinephrine

5.9 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall

OS. Got stuck behind other parties. 15 hours CTC 3 for the descent.

May 21, 2006

Vomit Launch

5.11b 

OR : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully

Onsight! WOW i was sooooo pumped!!

May 21, 2006

Prince of Darkness

5.10c 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Black Velvet Wall

Onsight! Crimp, Highstep and Repeat! Crux was a bit different.

May 20, 2006

Dark Shadows

5.8 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mescalito

Team Onsight! Pretty water start.

May 19, 2006

The Next Century

5.10 R 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mescalito

Team Onsight, the 2nd pitch starts off hard and ends spicy!

May 19, 2006

Y2K

5.10a 

NV : Red Rock : ... : Mescalito

Team Onsight

May 19, 2006

Poodles Are People Too

5.10b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...

Flashed with some Pre-placed gear. Fun thin moves bring small nuts!

Dec 17, 2005

Illusion Dweller

5.10b 

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Sentinel

Flashed with some Pre-placed gear. Make sure to keep a .75 for the end.

Dec 17, 2005

Snake Dike

5.7 R 

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Half Dome

Onsight linking pitches with a 70m rope. 12 hours CTC Date Approx climbed during Summer 2005.

Jun 14, 2005

Ro Shampo

5.12a 

KY : Red River Gorge : Roadside Crag

Flashed!

Mar 18, 2005