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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Pit Bull Terror (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #4 camalot didn't do much good (didn't fit) but a old 4.5 camalot or new #5 camalot really works well in the wide section.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Tradewinds (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I said two fixed biners aka carabiners not pins... The anchor is two bolts each with a piece of chain and a biner on the end for lowering. The only reason I mentioned is is because there are no hangers, just a short chain and a carabiner.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Seminar Wall Area : Right Long's Crack (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once you figure out the beta this doable at 5.11/11+
If you are comfortable inverting I think may be easier that Mother Superior...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely Phenomenal route! World Class! We bivyed at the base and then climbed and hiked out the next day. Still can't believe this route isn't more popular...
A few notes to clarify John's Rap beta.
To get to the bolts next to the dead tree you either have to rap from a tree (at the top of the final gully/pitch) with slings and biners or down climb ~50 feet of 4th and 5th class.
From here definitely knot your ropes since you have to swing HARD to get back to the belay after the Red Dihedr... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Underclingon (5.12a)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route. Make sure to bring a few alpine draws/slings for some of the middle/upper bolts since the route wanders a little (I used two but wished for a third). Excellent start with a tricky steep finish! Stick clipping the 1st bolt may be wise.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : The Flakes (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are only 3 bolts on the Price of Fear finish which safely protect this excellent pitch.
Only 11+ if you have to use trickery to make the reach on the 3rd pitch. Could be 10+/11- for those over 6 feet. While following my partner could just reach the hold with his foot on the large pedestal. Wow!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route over the weekend and it was Awesome! Endless fun jamming with a few interesting cruxes.
This can be climbed in three pitches if you are willing to solo the first ~250 feet of 4th class and 5.0 to a good ledge.
From the first ledge next to a tree, with a red rope rap station and below a set of double cracks, go ~62 meters to a wide sloping ledge on the right below a small roof. Belay here.
Next climb ~68 meters past the double crack crux and then trend right to a cool right faci... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Approach beta from Sawmill Campground at Saddlebag Lake can be found here:
http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/09/21/mount-connes>>>>>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mt. Conness : South West Face (Harding) R... (5.10c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We had a double rack from Purple TCU to #2 Camalot and then a single #3, #4 and #6. As Nick noted the #4 was not needed and we didn't miss the #5. The #6 was nice even though the 2nd part of the O/W was at least 8" and too big for a good placement.
The bolts are old Star Drives with awesome ring piton hangers... My partner clipped them but I doubt they would hold a fall and should be replaced.
Approach beta can be found here:
http://dreaminvertical.... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon/Pratt's Cra... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite the large size very little gear is needed for this route. I suggest 1 #6 C4 and 1 #5 C4 (or same sized friends) and then 2-3 finger size pieces (yellow and grey aliens). Also bring many slings and/or quickdraws for chockstones.
A second #6 and #5 could be brought but you really just push the #6 above you until the crack gets too big (8" -10") then you just squeeze in until it thins down again!
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Venturi Effect (5.12) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome I'll try to work that into my main Topo Photo!
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Tradewinds (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 8 bolts on this route. A belay can be made at the base by looping your rope around a boulder. The anchor has two fixed biners that allow you to lower off.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Astrohulk (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The link should work you just need to refresh the page after you click it. Or Try this
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are some photos of the meadow Scott describes and some additional approach beta in this post:
http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/07/07/how-to-enjoy>>>>>
Also there is a bit more hulk info and topos here:
http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/10/15/incredible-h>>>>>
Enjoy!
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit of info and a topo can be found here:
http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3>>>>>
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff : Bigger than the fish? (5.11a)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the name/grade of the new route with Black Hangers?
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Cathedral Rock : The Cathedral Route (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the pitches seem sandbagged. I would say P1- 11d (though maybe because I got really flash pumped) P2- 10c/d and P3- 11b. I also think the route is PG13 since there are some 5.10- sections well above your last bolt on P1 & P3.
I would warn against trying to rap with a 70m rope. When I reached the final belay my partner told me the middle mark was at the third bolt of P3. I confirmed when I pulled the rope through and the middle mark was still about 8 feet below the anchor.
I had a... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Dr. Evil (5.10a)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can rap/lower from the top with a 70 meter rope.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Gumby (5.10b)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The extension refered to in the comments above is called Morning Sky and is the natural line.
Gumby bails right on huge jugs to the Zebra Direct anchor to avoid a second crimpy crux higher on the slab.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Lion Zion (5.10c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is lots of fun with constant edging and no real hard crux. Keep your weight on your feet and crimp forever.
With a 70m rope you can lower to the Zebra Direct anchors from the top. There are 8 or 9 bolts on the extension.
If linking from a lower climb put a sling on the ZD anchor and the 2nd bolt (a sling on the 1st bolt of the extension might help too).
If linking with Zebra Direct either skip the 3rd bolt or use a long sling for minimal drag.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Sunshine Dihedral (5.11d PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both bolts are bomber and 3/8". It seems the 1st bolt got moved up about a foot and you have to do some pretty hard moves before getting it clipped (unless you pre hang a draw or sling).
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : South Face : Disco Jesus (5.11b)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard that some holds have broken on this route... Is this true?
The starting moves of P2 seem impossible. Do you have to go way right or way left from the belay?
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : South Face : Miscalculation (5.10c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a newish looking rap station right at the top of the crack. This will easily get one down with a 60m rope.
Seemed quite hard for the grade due to the sustained nature of the climbing.
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : The Closet : Pimp in Jeans (V4)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you go right it is V3. Fun both ways!
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Location: PA : Birdsboro Quarry
By: Luke Stefurak When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are going to add all the routes can we please sort them into the specific walls?!?
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