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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Luke Douglas When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't realize you guys rolled like that.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "If you could clip the bolts of "poison idea" you were no longer on "aquaduck" as MB established it, or you have 8+ foot long arms."
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Creekside Crag : Mr. Potato Head (5.9)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you could clip the bolts of "poison idea" you were no longer on "aquaduck" as MB established it, or you have 8+ foot long arms. This climb is much closer.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 to yank.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : 40oz causulatie (5.10c)
By: Luke Douglas When: Aug 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Casualties
Have yourself a boilermaker and cross your eyes it works like a spell check.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: Luke Douglas When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That OLD bolt had significant history behind it and it is a shame that it was removed for the sake of a convenience anchor.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adventure
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Hellgate East, The Melting ... : Werdo (5.10c/d)
By: Luke Douglas When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is in the Main slide path of Hellgate proper to the left of the 400' main wall (Fossils from Hell). There is a Martinez .11a just the right of Weirdo. There are several older routes out there as well which is evidenced by the old buttonheads around. It feels like you are in an amphitheater when you are in this area. An amphitheater at the bottom of a pinball machine. When rocks fall here they ping from rock fin to rock wall and back again as they make their way toward you, with some d... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : ... : Momentary Relapse (5.11a)
By: Luke Douglas When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not my anchor.
Luke
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Private Pizza Wall : Private Pizza (5.9)
By: Luke Douglas When: Jul 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Check out the 5.9 on the far left of the Chocolate Wall.(See Swell Guidebook) It is the identical twin of this climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Maybird East Side : Black cats (5.9+)
By: Luke Douglas When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bottom (3) bolts pulled and patched.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Purple Wall : Bubbles & Booze (5.11a)
By: Luke Douglas When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Smashed bolt has been replaced.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Photo
By: Luke Douglas When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, grk stole yer panties!!! http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/uinta_mountains/stone_>>>>>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : Creekside Wall
By: Luke Douglas When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Every year WASPS build nests on this wall near "Junkhead" and they are aggressive!
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (north) : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Haagenschlong (5.9+ C1-)
By: Luke Douglas When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know if the bat hook moves stand or if bolts have replaced those on the last pitch?
Gracias,
Luked
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Viewing (5.10a R)
By: Luke Douglas When: Feb 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the post Gordon. What a great story to add to the route description!!! Post more.
It would be great if Gordon's post could be added to the route description and not buried here in the comments.
Luked
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Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Area : Quartermoon Tower : Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power (5.10a/b)
By: Luke Douglas When: Feb 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line is super fun. Spicy old school bolting on bomber rock with in obvious gear placements keep the climbing captivating. Thanks for the work in setting this route up!!! I will do this again.
Luked
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Ice Falls : The Leisure Route (5.8 R)
By: Luke Douglas When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stevie,
Way to pay respect to the old school!
Stevie hates all people, including 5.8 leaders. Ask him he will tell ya himself.
Luked
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Death of a Monarch (5.8+)
By: Luke Douglas When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was given the X rating because if you fall the gear would not hold, you will slam into the talus and in all likelyhood die.
This climb went down with zero bolts and some pro that took a long prayer session just to stay in the rock. It travels through some really good rock with no protection opportunities for about 50'and then breaks left on a ramp which parallels the roof. Protection is not a problem on this section of the climb. Move up and toward the second pitch crack at the break ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Hidden Heavenly Slab : ... : Photo
By: Luke Douglas When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo is taken from the "Guardian Angel" belay. Going this way is a bit rrrrrrrrr. Directly below me are the "Mischievous Moroni" anchors.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Spring Fever (5.10a/b)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic line, with really cool moves, bold! More traffic would clean up some of the removable chicken heads and exfoliating slab sections.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Comb Ridge
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Anasazi which in Dineh means "enemy ancestors" or "ancient people who are not with us" likely left this area at the end of the 13th century. The word Moki(Moqui) is from the Hopi peoples.They refer to their ancient ancestors in this manner which means simply "the dead".
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Location: Luke Douglas : Avoid if seen-Dangerous Ani... : Photo
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: TP and the Teacher
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 1 : What the Hell (5.7)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt on this route is off of a ledge about 20' above the start of the climb. Place a small to medium cam or two to gain the ledge. Then follow the arete clipping three or so bolts to the chains.Great view and super fun for the grade.
Has someone really added a bolt to the start?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : Deja Vu (5.11a)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Hellgate.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : The Shadow (5.9+)
By: Luke Douglas When: Oct 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I really liked this climb. I had a bit of trouble getting a first piece. Fun moves
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