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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Hairpin Boulders : Roof : Hairpin Roof Right (V8)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Nov 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know where "Air Command" came from?? This has been on the locals bouldering circuit for at least over a decade and it was always known as Hairpin roof right. I think the V6 described here is "Hairpin Roof".
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Oedipus Complex (5.12-)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't "significantly harder" than 12a called 12b. I would be willing to go 12b on this. I thought it was harder than Disfigured Foreigner for sure. The top will get you attention too.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Wilderness of Rocks : Swimming Hole : Pimpin' Curly (V5)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When we first went out there I had heard V7/8, but the sequence beta that we were shown did not seem like the best and two of us flashed it with better beta. I think 5 was fair. It might be hard 5.
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Location: AZ : The Dry Canyon : Stranglehoff (5.13a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw in the new Dry guide that this was downrated to .12b/c. I can't say I agree as it feels harder than Veganator (.12c to the top) and quite a bit harder than Spinal Twist (.12b). I've never done Oh Bee-have (.12b/c) so I can't really compare there. Maybe I was doing it really wrong???
Any insight here??
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn Boulder
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I realize world class could be subjective, but Queen Creek, really??
I just threw up in my mouth.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn Boulder : Big Bad Wolf (V9)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The true and original "B scale" has no real correlation to the now popular V scale. The main basis of the B scale and difficulty had to do with how many people had climbed a given problem. B3, which was the highest out of the 3 ratings, was reserved for unrepeated problems. B3 was down rated to B2 upon being repeated, even if by the same person who originally climbed the problem.
It is important to realize that when bouldering locally in Tucson there is a high likelihood that Bob Murray, w... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Matterhorn Boulder
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice to see that Tucson bouldering has had enough of a resurgence to get people bickering at each other regarding ratings and tick marks (online no less). Remember that if you play your own game you play against yourself with your own rules and you are the only won capable of winning.
Also, any bouldering here that is "good" isn't even worth a mention compared to what you can drive to in not much time at all that is world class, yes WORLD CLASS.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Breeze (5.11c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Changed out the old biners with new ones at the end of July. Nice shiny wire gates up there for all.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Murray Wall : Murray Freestone (5.11b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't Kundalini and MDT share a start? Murray Freestone is the 1st independent route left of MDT.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress : Oedipus Complex (5.12-)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this climb has single moves harder than any of the moves on Disfigured Foreigner or Gettin' Off the Porch. Maybe I missed something???
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : Red Hot (5.12a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Short crux lower down and then a fun section trough a seam. The loose blocks at the top of this climb and Fireball are of the size that might make one throw up in their mouth if you considered them being pulled off.
Also, this climb has only hangers at the top which make cleaning a little difficult. Will try to get some chains up there soon.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : Delirious (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Added biners for lowering off the chains at the top - 6.09
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Breeze (5.11c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Water runs just to the left of the climb and over a few of the upper holds after its rained. This can make things more exciting, but it may not matter as its just .10D.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Jailhouse Rock : Prison Overcrowding (5.11a/b)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route name. Seems like every time I venture back into that little canyon that there are more bolts to the right of Sentenced to Hang. Its like connect the dots.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Fortress
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know there was a lot of action up at the Orifice wall last season. Anyone care to list the routes from right to left as you approach the big ledge? A few of the route descriptions don't really give much info as to where each given route is compared to the other routes.
Thanks.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Pharaoh : Time the Avenger (5.12a)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Route. Another of the must do 12s on the mountain. Getting to the rings from the last bolt proved to be a little perplexing. If you're not planning on doing any of the gear routes on the front side then this is a good one to lap a few times. No real stopper moves for the grade.
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Location: AZ : Kelly Canyon : Arkansas & Traverse Wall : The Traverse (V7-8)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the more aesthetic traverses I've climbed. Well worth the hike down even if just for this problem.
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Location: AZ : Kelly Canyon : The Corridor : Pinches (V5)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: End "rail" is now 2/3 smaller. When matching it and then about to drop off it exploded in my face. I'm still giving myself the send.
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Location: AZ : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Last Lonely Eagle (5.10c)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Apr 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: to not use the arete is silly. you can reach it without ever leaving the bolt line.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happie... : Happy Boulders : ... : Serengeti (V5)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two ways to do this one. If you're short the beta is harder than the tall person possibility. I did it both ways and found the way that bypasses the bad crimps easier by a grade at least.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Middle Earth : The Planet Eater (5.11)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wasps = no stars. I once got stung while leading at Willow Canyon Crags. No me gusta!!!!!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Vineyard Cove
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Dec 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Daryl,
"Similar comments could probably be made for numerous developed climbing areas nationwide."
I hope we don't use the above statement to help rationalize how we treat our climbing areas. In my opinion the anchors do not interfere with teaching and it is true that they might actually add to it, but when I started climbing (not all that long ago), and now that I teach it I make sure people understand that fixed protection usually goes in when other gear can not. I know that many are... more >>
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Vineyard Cove
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Dec 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting bit of history on "Vineyard Cove"
This crag is also known as "Rattlesnake Cove" and has been used for years by Outward Bound, NOLS, and The University of Arizona Outdoor Adventures. Believe it or not all of those groups utilized the wall without sport anchors.
It is a bummer that opening up climbing areas to all involves moving away from teaching and learning basic climbing skills like how to build solid gear anchors and set up top ropes.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Wasteland (5.8)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Nov 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seems like everyone has a different way of doing this one. We did it in 5 pitches instead of six. We did not get bad rope drag at all, and we didn't clip any bolts. I think the circuitous nature of the upper climbing keeps me from suggesting the full 4 stars.
Pitch 4 (traversing under the first roof) is one of the best easy trad pitches I have ever led. Good continuous climbing and good exposure.
We also rapped the backside slightly different and ended right at the packs (nice!!!!)... more >>
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Reef of Rocks : Neptune : Rapture of the Steep (5.10)
By: Luke Bertelsen When: Jul 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has a second pitch that I have never done. It's not much to look at compared to the first.
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