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Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.


Member Since: Jan 26, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Luke Stefurak


Point Rank: # 240
Total Points: 2,112
Last Year: 568
Last 30 Days: 1
123 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Luke Stefurak been climbing?










Contributions


All (1286) | Routes (78) | Areas (22) | Photos (173) | Comments (137) | Posts (224) | Stars (569) | Ratings (83)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Michael Strassman Memorial ... (5.10c) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Sweet! Were you on this recently?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : London Calling (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone tried linking this into Rule Britannia? Seems like a pretty logical line. Bad rock quality makes the traverse to the right seem problematic.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Pitch markers for 6,7,8 are not quite right for golden years. They should all be higher up.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Fifi Buttress : Romulan Freebird (5.12c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: FFA History by Lucho: luisluchorivera.blogspot.com/2012/11/romulan-warbird-512c-fi>>>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Surf and Turf (5.12+)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: At the time I was pretty obsessed and sad that I didn't have enough time to get it done. That's the main reason I entered it in MP.com I also made a plaque with a grade at the base, which would make it seem like I sent.

I'll get a can of paint for when I go back. What brand/type do you like? Painted hangers has not lasted in the past, I assume i'm doint it wrong...

I'm not very good at the rattly finger size. Campusing big .5 camalots seems to be the crux on this one. Perhaps you can lay it b... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Tooth or Consequences (5.11) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Sweet Patina!


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : The Emperor aka Pea Soup (5.12a)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Does this need equal lengths chains? Uneven? 5 links ok or are the bolts far apart? Thanks!!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: For more information on the FFA check out these links:

www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/03/the-liberty-cap-project/

www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/06/scaface-liberty-cap-first-fr>>>

Even more details on the pitches:

www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/05/route-beta-free-climbing-sca>>>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: You can also layback the flake that makes up the chimney.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I thought about it. I added some more details to his topo and reformatted it. So it is not a verbatim copy of what is in the guide. This was why I don't feel bad about posting it. I also didn't post up his topo of the full route, which is superior to the one I posted. Usually if people want things removed they will email me and I will gladly take it down.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: All bolts on this route have been upgraded to to 3/8" stainless. No more wacky scarefest anchors.


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: This climb is most definitely 5.12 with two pitches at that grade. Depending on your skill set either of the upper pitches could feel harder.

P1 5.10a - Climb up per romantic warrior to the belay below the living corner.

P2 5.10/10+ - Climb the first 15 feet of the living corner. At an obvious weakness/rail traverse right across the face past a few spots for gear and one bolt before making it to an obvious 45 degree seam. Follow this feature, which takes thin/very thin gear, to a belay on the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : West Face (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: All anchors up to P7 (before the long traverse right) are two 3/8" bolts and setup for rappel. The P3 anchor is the only exception which is a slung block attached to a single new bolt.

The midway "anchor" on P6 has been reduced to one bolt with a long sling on it. Please don't remove the sling/cord so you can clip early, or pull past if aiding.

The jumble of 1/4" bolts on the P7 ledge have been removed.

As Walker noted there is a new bolt protecting the crux on P1. There is a 1/4" bolt right... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: The background is the Main Wall of High Eagle Dome.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: wolverinepublishing.com/shuteye-ridge

A new guidebook is now available for Shuteye Ridge. Written by Grahm Doe and published by Wolverine.

This is a very pretty guidebook with 400+ pages in Full color.


Shuteye Ridge Guidebook
Shuteye Ridge Guidebook



Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : The Venturi Effect (5.12)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: The piton in the horizontal that protects the first crux on Pitch 3 (5.11+) was loose this past weekend (8/17/2013). I managed to pound it back in with a big rock from the ledge, but am guessing it might loosen up again.

FYI!


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I thought the run-outs were fairly inconsistent, and the route seemed oddly bolted. Also there are still some old bolts on this route.

Hard for me to think this is top 100. I wouldn't recommend it to friends.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Knacker Cracker (5.11b)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I think the grade comes from doing the route onsight. Perhaps I'm bad at placing wires. I used nuts for the first 30 feet until it opened up to Red C3 size. Then two Yellow aliens, .5, .75, #1 camalot. Really eases up after you get to the first good fingerlock.

RP's seem to fit much better than offsets on this route.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Deadend Dihedral (5.12b PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: This could use a good cleaning. Went up to try it and P1 was covered in moss, dirt and pine needles. We bailed.

The fixed line to the base is also gone.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Freeway (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: Rack Beta:

I would bring a single purple C3, then doubles from green C3 to #1 camalot and a single #2, #3. We placed a ton of nuts. No need for a #4 camalot. You could place the #4 on the daylight crack, but that's it and the #3 fits shortly.


For P7 Make sure to go straight up after the first bolt. The pitch has two pitons right next to each other, then a bolt. The second bolt is way high up and you might not be able to see it. There is an anchor wa... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : The Calling (5.12-)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: If approaching from astro ledge look for a two bolt anchor right above a roof that goes over the trail. The first bolt of P1 is about 15 feet up.

For P1 bring doubles green alien to .5 camalot and single .75 to #2. 10-12 draws. There are currently 4 bolts, 3 pins and a fixed nut or so. Rad pitch!!

For P2 I thought it was nice to have doubles from yellow alien to #2 camalot with an extra .5 and .75 camalot. Super enduro pitch, no moves as hard as P1 but the corner goes on forever... more >>


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Tamarack Lake Area : Saber Ridge : Saber Ridge traverse, south... (5.7) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: That looks like another nice ridge traverse


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jul 2, 2013

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Comments: For reference the first pitch of Venturi is shown incorrecly. I'll work to update this topo. The big photo topo shows the correct pitch.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Blowhard (5.12+)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 28, 2013

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Comments: Some beta for rappeling:

You can rappel from the base of the crux into the gulley with a 70m rope. This anchor is the same as the P2 anchor for the polish route.

Do not try to rappel down to the fixed nut anchor on the polish route. Shenanigans or two ropes are required to get off.

Some of my friends tried to rappel the upper section of Blowhard with a 70m rope and ended up having to downclimb a few sections (NOT Recommended!!).

If rappelling Blowhard use an 80m rope!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Schultz's Ridge : Just Do Me (5.10d)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: The first bolt is almost 30 feet up and it's 5.10 climbing to get there. A single rack from fingers to hands would be recommended. You can even get in a #4 camalot at the first roof, instead of using the old rusty piton.


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