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Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...


Member Since: Jan 26, 2006
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Luke Stefurak


Point Rank: # 248
Total Points: 2,288
Last Year: 175
Last 30 Days: 3
149 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Luke Stefurak been climbing?










Contributions


All 1419 | Routes 81 | Areas 23 | Photos 197 | Page Improvements | Comments 148 | Posts 216 | Stars 668 | Ratings 86
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: For reference the block between the twin cracks has broken off. It looks quite different now. The grade is about 10+


Location: UT : Zion National Park : The Confluence : Smashmouth (5.11a)
By: Luke Stefurak When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: We linked P1 and P2 then linked P3 and P4. This was fairly fun since I followed the first two and then led the last two, essentially getting to climb the full route without stopping.

For linking P1 and P2 you want to unclip the first bolt in the traverse after you clip the 2nd bolt. Ideally you also don't place anything between the P1 anchor and the bolts, or you back clean the piece.

With an 80m rope you can rap by going P4 - P2 and then to the ground. If your rope isn't strechy you may have... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Surf and Turf (5.12+)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: I finally made it back and finished this thing off. Hopefully people will check it out!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Low Cholesterol (5.10) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: Sick!


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 18, 2014

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Comments: It's a super thin seam that was full of moss. We didn't have small enough gear to try it. You would want lots of rps and doubles to purple C3. I'll photos a photo later of the crack.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Bubbs Creek Wall
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: A topo for Crystal Bonzai can be found here: supertopo.com/topos/obscuritie...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Tales from the Gripped (5.11b) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: I was able to back up a good number of the bolts with small to medium nuts. Will be amazing when it gets rebolted!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Challenger (5.10d PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: This route is now has Rings/Links on all anchors thanks to the ASCA and John Wilder for getting me the hardware. We rapped Jupiter II with a 70m (as mentioned above) and didn't have any issues with stuck ropes.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Jupiter II (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: This route is now has Rings/Links on all anchors thanks to the ASCA and John Wilder for getting me the hardware. You can rappel with a 70m rope but be very very careful! The rap to the P2 anchor is a FULL 35m and you clip the anchor below you. The rap to the ground requires some easy 5th class downclimbing. We had no stuck ropes after doing the rap twice (After Challenger and Jupiter II)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall
By: Luke Stefurak When: May 2, 2014

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Comments: All of the anchors on Challenger and Jupiter II are setup for rappel. They either have quicklinks and rings or quicklinks thanks to the ASCA!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Columbian Hit Man (5.11)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I would say 2x Purple C3 and a single Green and Red C3 protect the thin sections at the top. Heart breaking finish on sweet crimps!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Michael Strassman Memorial ... (5.10c) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Sweet! Were you on this recently?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : London Calling (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone tried linking this into Rule Britannia? Seems like a pretty logical line. Bad rock quality makes the traverse to the right seem problematic.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Slab Happy Pinnacle : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Pitch markers for 6,7,8 are not quite right for golden years. They should all be higher up.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Fifi Buttress : Romulan Freebird (5.12c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Dec 17, 2013

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Comments: FFA History by Lucho: luisluchorivera.blogspot.com/2...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Surf and Turf (5.12+)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: At the time I was pretty obsessed and sad that I didn't have enough time to get it done. That's the main reason I entered it in MP.com I also made a plaque with a grade at the base, which would make it seem like I sent.

I'll get a can of paint for when I go back. What brand/type do you like? Painted hangers has not lasted in the past, I assume i'm doint it wrong...

I'm not very good at the rattly finger size. Campusing big .5 camalots seems to be the crux on this one. Perhaps you can lay it b... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall : Tooth or Consequences (5.11) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: Sweet Patina!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : The Emperor aka Pea Soup (5.11+)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Does this need equal lengths chains? Uneven? 5 links ok or are the bolts far apart? Thanks!!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: For more information on the FFA check out these links:

dreaminvertical.com/2013/03/th...

dreaminvertical.com/2013/06/sc...

Even more details on the pitches:

dreaminvertical.com/2013/05/ro...


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: You can also layback the flake that makes up the chimney.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 21, 2013

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Comments: I thought about it. I added some more details to his topo and reformatted it. So it is not a verbatim copy of what is in the guide. This was why I don't feel bad about posting it. I also didn't post up his topo of the full route, which is superior to the one I posted. Usually if people want things removed they will email me and I will gladly take it down.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: All bolts on this route have been upgraded to to 3/8" stainless. No more wacky scarefest anchors.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Warlock : Sea of Tranquility (5.11c/d PG13)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: This climb is most definitely 5.12 with two pitches at that grade. Depending on your skill set either of the upper pitches could feel harder.

P1 5.10a - Climb up per romantic warrior to the belay below the living corner.

P2 5.10/10+ - Climb the first 15 feet of the living corner. At an obvious weakness/rail traverse right across the face past a few spots for gear and one bolt before making it to an obvious 45 degree seam. Follow this feature, which takes thin/very thin gear, to a belay on the... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : West Face (5.11c)
By: Luke Stefurak When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: All anchors up to P7 (before the long traverse right) are two 3/8" bolts and setup for rappel. The P3 anchor is the only exception which is a slung block attached to a single new bolt.

The midway "anchor" on P6 has been reduced to one bolt with a long sling on it. Please don't remove the sling/cord so you can clip early, or pull past if aiding.

The jumble of 1/4" bolts on the P7 ledge have been removed.

As Walker noted there is a new bolt protecting the crux on P1. There is a 1/4" bolt right... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Photo
By: Luke Stefurak When: Aug 26, 2013

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Comments: The background is the Main Wall of High Eagle Dome.


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