Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Mount Boner : Shaking the Pope's Hand (5.7)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: What do they say about climbing? It's 10% forearms, 90% footwork. If you're rating this at 8+, then sounds like you need some laps on this. IMO, this is a stellar intro to 5.7 sport....
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jul 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Lee Smith's comment. While rapping off the route, one of the ropes was sawed through the sheath into the core. On the ground, after pulling the ropes and seeing the damage, my bro' and I looked at each other, very perturbed....
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shirt Tail - 6/9/2007. Of the descent options, descent A1 seemed best, scrambling and shuffling around ledges to the north 50 ft. PAST the first rappel tree (this first tree requires the exposed downclimb and can easily be seen from the arete on ascent). TIE KNOTS ON YOUR ROPE ENDS!!! One rappel with a 60m deposits you at a small ledge. An easy 40' scramble down and south takes you to the final rappel. TIE KNOTS ON YOUR ROPE ENDS!!! (as always!). Rappel to the ends and do an easy 30' scramble t... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is easily one of the best climbs I've done. Fantastic exposure on the last 2 pitches (rivaling the last pitch of Yellow Spur/Icarus or Rewritten). We were surprised how steep the last 200 ft. were. Linking pitches 2 and 3 was not a big deal with little rope drag. While the 5.8 dihedral did not seem to be the crux, exiting out its roof and steep jugs was a little taxing. I found the crux to be a little traverse move off a crimp drifting right: final pitch. This was just before gaining ... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8) : Photo
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jun 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a much better line if you cut to the arete 50 ft. below the summit. Great Climb!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : ... : Photo
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jun 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic picture! Great perspective!!!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Buttonrock : Entryway Slabs : Joy (5.7)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jun 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite the ground fall potential, staying in the crack is not bad, especially when using face holds left of the crack. Don't really think of this as a 5.7, more like 5.6, especially after watching Danny and Dave climb Initial Route on Hitler's Sex Life a couple hundred yards down the road (5.7). Now that's full-value 5.7!
|
Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Bouldering : Little Devil (V11 X)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: May 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Props to the visionary first-ascentionist! Quality!
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : The Quartz Garden : Rusted Razor (5.8)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Apr 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My brother Danny, who went to NOLS and was taught this, informs me that this advice might be dangerous. The cave can become a "spark-gap" if the formation is struck by lightning, hitting people in the cave. Plus, it's always best to disperse, so that if someone is hit the others can render aid. Just food for thought....
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Apr 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't call it trying, but we had a good time. While Danny was coming back down from the slot, some guys had come up the first pitch of Clear-a-sil (maybe?) and joined up with us at the bolts. We teamed up for a 4-man double rope rappel. I'm not sure what the downclimb would be like from the ends of a single rope rappel... We'll be back!
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Apr 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My brother and I attempted this route yesterday. After successful goes on Eldo routes like Bastille Crack, Reggae, Star Wars, etc. we thought this would go down easy. This route is a testament to the subjectivity of route ratings. The crux section seems more difficult than any of the crack sections on the Bastille Crack and more difficult than Star Wars on the Peanuts Wall (5.8). Needless to say, if anyone retrieves our #4 hex from the bottom of the v-slot, we would be eternally gratef... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Wars (5.8)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Mar 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today (on second). Nice first pitch from the lower ledge (5.7). Fun jugs just where you need them (gotta love Eldo!). The exit onto the ledge under the hand crack was sweet. I found the hand crack a little strenuous. Upper half I said "Screw it" and laybacked the final moves into the V-slot above. Of course, this is probably easier on second. The V-slot and notch through the roof were pretty funky, but fun. All in all, a terrific 2-pitches. For descent, it seems that scramb... more >>
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jan 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice website, Andy. I enjoyed watching several of your movies. What software did you use to put it together?
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Churchill Rejects (5.9+)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jan 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sam... do you know the distance to the ground from the new anchors? Thanks...
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Extra Point (5.6 R)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Aug 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My brother and I climbed this route today. Staying on the left edge, pitches two and three were beautiful flake hauls up perfect stone. For the fourth pitch, the best place to set an anchor for the runout is on a small ledge 15 or 20 feet above the bigger ledge but still 20' feet from the "U". Danny was able to slot in a questionable nut some 8 feet above the anchor. Two little friction bulges over 40-50 feet of clean slab provided a good deal of spice, with the leader looking at a 80' tumbl... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jul 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My brother and I did the North Side of East Face on Saturday. What a beautiful climb! We found that the business is on the first 20 feet (if starting at the very bottom point of the slab). I would call it 5.4R, due to the slicker nature of the rock at soil level. After placing one piece 50 feet up, my bro' ran out the complete rope length (60m) to reach the upper tree (you can barely make it!). The second pitch went at one full rope length plus 30+ feet of simulclimbing to make it to the sh... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Luis Barandiaran When: May 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did Reggae with my brother on Friday and it was awesome. We'd been eyeing the line for a year and decided that it was time... A fixed nut and cam at the crux really made it more of a clip-up than anything and the crux is only one 5.8ish move. I found it to just be a touch harder than the 5.7 crux on Rewritten. Combined with Calypso makes it the best and most asthetic line on SW Wind Tower IMO.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jul 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the three pitches up Wind Ridge today... the third pitch is definitely worth doing. Roof feels like 5.6. Jug city after that. From the summit, the best to do for [descent] is to downclimb towards the north until you run across a thick old cable strung across the slabs. This runs for 40 or 50 feet. From there, don't head straight up the notch, but continue 20 feet or so to the next one. On the West facing side there's two [vertically] stacked rappel bolts. It's an easy single rope r... more >>
|
Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon
By: Luis Barandiaran When: Jun 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A friend and I [received] an email from Bernard a couple weeks ago saying the guidebook was going well. His only problem is that he and his partners keep finding more cool routes! Let's hope it can come out sooner than later.... we're itchin' to lift the lid on the new treasure trove.... Thanks for all your work, Bernard! Keep it up!
|
RSS Feed
