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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Way 'Stead (5.12)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome Red... great job... I can't wait to try it!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks Area : Photo
By: Luis Cisneros When: Oct 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an incredible photo!!!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Granite of the Apes (5.13)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Sep 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job Jesse!!! Congrats!!! I wish I was there to see it
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Granite of the Apes (5.13)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Aug 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great job Eric!! awesome
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Plateonic Love (5.11+)
By: Luis Cisneros When: May 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: well, I rather say that this is what I've learned climbing with Vince
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Geir Up (5.11-)
By: Luis Cisneros When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this clean (no bolts clipped) . Two pieces at the top are less than ideal, but everything is bomber under that, so I think a fall from the last few moves would be big but save.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : Plateonic Love (5.11+)
By: Luis Cisneros When: May 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick found a new secret beta. I tried it, and it makes the slab move easier than the lower roof part. In this way, the route is .11- maximum.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : The Brightest Fire (5.11c/d)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Aug 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor biners were stolen from this route. We had to add new ones a couple of weeks ago. Clearly the person who did it downclimbed or topped out, either way seems a lot of work to booty two old biners... what is up with that?
This is an annoyance for climbers since the anchors have no chains. Please respect the climbing area and honor the fixed gear, it is left there for your own convenience.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : The Hanging Judge (5.12a)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Jan 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: well, well, good! I wondered about the FA for a long time.
I had seen the second pitch and I have to admit that it gives me the willies...
I did try the line that splits to the right after the first crux, a broken crack that supposedly goes at mid .12, and which I thought was the first pitch for the upper corner... it was hard to climb, very dirty and will be tricky to protect (I was only trying the moves on TR from the Judge anchor).
Does anybody know anything about this variation?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr...
By: Luis Cisneros When: Jan 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great work John!!! and thanks man!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Dry Canyon : Veganator (5.12a)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Jan 10, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Meghan also joined the .12 club yesterday with her awesome send!!! girls are ruling the town!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : The Friar (5.9)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Dec 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went left instead of right on the last pitch, basically following chalked holds... so I ended up doing an overhanging corner that felt like a 5.10c R with really bad gear... does anybody know anything about this variation?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I second Geir's comment... the lower angle of this rock make it easy to find any number of ways to climb it... just dump a bunch of steel, pretty much at random, and some friction route will come out. I think the classic routes (say, mostly the ones that actually have names) are great and somewhat preserve the adventure character of the Stronghold, they are mixed and pretty natural lines. Now, by the precedent set by The Peacemaker, the new lines may be great fun (haven't climb them), but the ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott has done 5 routes running down the descent, which is a very impressive record... We opted for the fixed line 'soft' style basically to save our knees and time to do more pitches. We were moving somewhat fast and steady, but not really rushing up to our limit. If the interest is only speed, there is a lot of room for improvement... In any case, yeah, agree, Sheepshead is an awesome playground for this kind of stuff... the big 8 is totally feasible...
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ... no simul-climbing at all, and actually, that is one of the main things we can do to make it faster. But I feel that I need to be a bit more familiar with the routes to do this.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the past November 1st Nick Erhardt and I completed 6 climbs in a day: The Peacemaker, Absinthe of Mallet, Ides of Middlemarch, The Climb Too Tough to Die, Right of Stampede and Ewephoria, making 36 pitches... We did use a fixed line to rap down and it was great fun... I dare to say that at 8 climbs could be done with enough motivation and foot pain tolerance, but as it is for now, I think this is the current record of number of pitches in a day for this crag.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote ... : Elephant Dome : Elephantiasis (5.10 PG13)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great climb... I did not feel that the rock was poor AT ALL, on the contrary, thought the rock was mostly great with a few places of loose stuff that did not spoil the overall quality. Good adventure climb, with some run outs and excellent fun movement. A most do in Mendoza.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Photo
By: Luis Cisneros When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: that would not happen if you had hair...
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : The Hanging Judge (5.12a)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, that is why I put ??? signs on it... I only heard sometime ago that RR did it but never found any confirmation... so I am changing it right now.. Thanks Paul!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Summit Crags : ... : Coup de' tat (5.13)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: way to go Vince and Eric!!!! great sends!!!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Washington Column : Astroman (5.11c)
By: Luis Cisneros When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a really bad loose flake on the pitch after Enduro. More precisely in the transition between the hand crack and the 5.9 move to the belay... I nearly pulled it off (and almost shit my pants!). Is very easy to climb around it, I suppose this is why is still there considering all the traffic this route takes.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: Luis Cisneros When: Apr 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is The Stronghold Cosa Nostra
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