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Standing on top of Spire 2!


Member Since: May 2, 2012
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 8,978
Total Points: 26
Last Year: 8
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lspade been climbing?










Contributions


All 107 | Routes | Areas | Photos 3 | Page Improvments | Comments 12 | Posts 25 | Stars 38 | Ratings 29

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7) : Photo
By: Lspade When: 9 hours ago

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Comments: Thank you for this!


Location: MN : Grand Marais Area Ice Climb... : Nightfall (WI4)
By: Lspade When: Jan 5, 2014

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Comments: My climbing partner and I spent 4 days on the North Shore iceclimbing and backpacking. When we got back my partner decided to edit a video of the climb, check it out...

v
v
v- GoPro video of Night Fall



^- GoPro video of Night Fall
^
^

I hope you enjoyed it!


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Khayyam Spire : God's Own Drunk (5.8+)
By: Lspade When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Pitch 1 is no where near 170 feet. We only wanted to climb p1 and brought two ropes with but we only needed one rope to rappel to the ground from the "obvious belay ledge". This is the big ledge to the right of the crack that has a nice set of bolts to rap from.

And I agree with the others that the first 30' are pg13. I definitely would give this route a 5.9 rating due to the first crux move.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Two : East Face (5.6)
By: Lspade When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: This route is known as Spire 2 by the locals. Quick, easy, and great views.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire Two : East Face (5.6)
By: Lspade When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: We did not want to risk getting a knot stuck in the gully so we did three rappels to the base on a 60m rope. Bring webbing for the lowest set of bolts as they do not have any chains on them.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : Garfield Goes To Washington (5.8)
By: Lspade When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: I was told to bring webbing to build an anchor at the top but I found two brand spanking new FIXE bolts/chains about 20 feet below the summit on a huge ledge. I belayed both of my seconds up to this spot and we did an easy, non-exposed, scramble to the summit unroped.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : ... : South Bowl Route (Right) (5.6)
By: Lspade When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: This route is 8% climbing and 92% scrambling. There are basically four very short spots of climbing and only the 30 foot crux section has the potential of a death fall if you choose to climb ropeless which I highly recommend if you are a solid climber. It was quite freeing to climb this route with just some water and a powerbar due to all of the bushwacking, crawling under trees, and long unroped traverses.

It took me three visits to finally find this route. After the first visit I picked up th... more >>


Location: MN : Sandstone : Robinson Park : rock climbs : Sigma Wall : Wild Things (5.9)
By: Lspade When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: -

--DO NOT USE THE RIGHT CRACK AT THE START FOR GEAR--

-

This has been stated before but I wanted to emphasise it. There is a big block to the right of the rightward facing flake/chimney that sits about 5 feet off the ground and is about 10 feet high. Placing a cam behind this is tempting but if you give the cam a pull you can see the entire block of rock move. Both my partner and I felt it was safe to stand on this block but if a cam wedged it off the wall the route would be a lot har... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Photo
By: Lspade When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Thank you for this. I am curious if there are any cracks nearby to build a better anchor as I do not wish to link the two pitches and I don't know how much I would want to trust those rusty old things.


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Pot Holes Area : The Real Thing (5.10a)
By: Lspade When: May 31, 2012

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Comments: I led it again and I feel that the 10a rating is a complete lie. The first time I led this route I assumed it was for sure in the 5.11 range and was surprised to find out that it was only a 5.10a. This route makes "The Bulge" (which is also 5.10a) feel like a walk in the park. Sand bagged rating for sure.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Lspade When: May 11, 2012

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Comments: Good to hear they put in some new protection!!! I was part of the group with the fallen climber. Here is the story:

Me and three friends (I will refer to them as friend 1, 2, and 3) set off on April 23 to climb Stolen Chimney. Friend 1 and 2 were climbing together and Friend 1 was supposed to lead all of the pitches because friend 2 only sport leads. Me and friend 3 were climbing behind them with me leading all of the pitches. Friend 1 and 2 were both on the third belay ledge as I started lead... more >>


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Pot Holes Area : The Real Thing (5.10a)
By: Lspade When: May 10, 2012

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Comments: Out of all the routes I have ever climbed in my life this is my #1 most favorite (be it 500ft tall multipitch or insane boulder problems). How does this only have a 2 star rating!? It is possibly the shortest trad lead I have ever climbed but height shouldn't hinder this route's awesomeness.

The climb is basically a 5.5 route with a short and ridiculous 5.10 crux sitting on top of it. I placed two whole pieces of protection in the entire route. The crux is a battle of figuring out how to ... more >>