Comments: My partner and I drove through the night and arrived at 2:00am in the Devil's Tower parking lot on Saturday, August 2nd, 2014 (Sturgis Weekend). We assumed that most other climbers would avoid Sturgis Weekend and that we would at least be the first to arrive since we got there so early.
There was a group of 4 snoozing in the grass waiting for sunlight and another car with 2 climbers pulled up at the same time as us. We slept for an hour and a half then woke up at 4:00am. Once we grabbed ... more >>
Comments: Pitch 1 is no where near 170 feet. We only wanted to climb p1 and brought two ropes with but we only needed one rope to rappel to the ground from the "obvious belay ledge". This is the big ledge to the right of the crack that has a nice set of bolts to rap from.
And I agree with the others that the first 30' are pg13. I definitely would give this route a 5.9 rating due to the first crux move.
Comments: I was told to bring webbing to build an anchor at the top but I found two brand spanking new FIXE bolts/chains about 20 feet below the summit on a huge ledge. I belayed both of my seconds up to this spot and we did an easy, non-exposed, scramble to the summit unroped.
Comments: This route is 8% climbing and 92% scrambling. There are basically four very short spots of climbing and only the 30 foot crux section has the potential of a death fall if you choose to climb ropeless which I highly recommend if you are a solid climber. It was quite freeing to climb this route with just some water and a powerbar due to all of the bushwacking, crawling under trees, and long unroped traverses.
It took me three visits to finally find this route. After the first visit I picked up th... more >>
--DO NOT USE THE RIGHT CRACK AT THE START FOR GEAR--
This has been stated before but I wanted to emphasise it. There is a big block to the right of the rightward facing flake/chimney that sits about 5 feet off the ground and is about 10 feet high. Placing a cam behind this is tempting but if you give the cam a pull you can see the entire block of rock move. Both my partner and I felt it was safe to stand on this block but if a cam wedged it off the wall the route would be a lot har... more >>
Comments: Thank you for this. I am curious if there are any cracks nearby to build a better anchor as I do not wish to link the two pitches and I don't know how much I would want to trust those rusty old things.
Comments: I led it again and I feel that the 10a rating is a complete lie. The first time I led this route I assumed it was for sure in the 5.11 range and was surprised to find out that it was only a 5.10a. This route makes "The Bulge" (which is also 5.10a) feel like a walk in the park. Sand bagged rating for sure.
Comments: Good to hear they put in some new protection!!! I was part of the group with the fallen climber. Here is the story:
Me and three friends (I will refer to them as friend 1, 2, and 3) set off on April 23 to climb Stolen Chimney. Friend 1 and 2 were climbing together and Friend 1 was supposed to lead all of the pitches because friend 2 only sport leads. Me and friend 3 were climbing behind them with me leading all of the pitches. Friend 1 and 2 were both on the third belay ledge as I started lead... more >>
Comments: Out of all the routes I have ever climbed in my life this is my #1 most favorite (be it 500ft tall multipitch or insane boulder problems). How does this only have a 2 star rating!? It is possibly the shortest trad lead I have ever climbed but height shouldn't hinder this route's awesomeness.
The climb is basically a 5.5 route with a short and ridiculous 5.10 crux sitting on top of it. I placed two whole pieces of protection in the entire route. The crux is a battle of figuring out how to ... more >>