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Member Since: Oct 7, 2006
Last Visit: Nov 4, 2009
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louis

 
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All (18) | Routes | Areas | Photos | Comments (2) | Posts (2) | Stars (5) | Ratings (9)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Sucking My Will to Live (5.12c)
By: louis When: Aug 1, 2007

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Comments: It sucked my will, held my draws hostage, but went after a ruthless twenty or so tries. I think this is one of the most physical and beta intensive 12s in clear creek. For a short climber there are a ton of options for both the lower crux and the upper redpoint crux - at the first crux between bolts three and four, with the left hand at the lower left pinch, standing directly up and grabbing the ear with the right hand saves a couple of moves. For the final two throws at the top (tough at 5'6... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall
By: louis When: May 14, 2007

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Comments: I have lowered off the mussy hooks on both Hazardous Waste and Power Trip at least ten times. Although the first iteration of the hooks had smaller openings, they offered superior safety to the old untie-and-thread method. Mussy hooks are safer than closed shut anchors or lap links, dictate fewer critical steps in the lowering process (including untying from the rope), and also expediate the non-climbing moments of climbing - leaving more time to sit around and fight the pump. The opinion tha... more >>