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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon
By: Louis Arevalo When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone have info on the new two pitch route left on Lite Not Solid? It begins with 4 bolts through the cutler then climbs a ever-widening/ overhanging crack, tight hands to fists to the first set of anchors, draws still hanging,then proceeds through a bolted offwidth pitch above. Is it a project or are the draws left for the community? Looks sweet and sharp.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Undone Book (5.9+ R)
By: Louis Arevalo When: Jul 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route yesterday. Although the second pitch has a quarter inch bolt I found solid gear leading up to and just past it, not terribly run out. For what it's worth, the crux bolt was one of the healthiest looking 1/4 inchers I have ever clipped. I would say the second pitch is a slow-moving route-finding 10-.
We found the route to be dusty and void of any chalk. If it were to be climbed more often and the chalk were to build up, I am sure it would ease the psych.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Abbienormal (aka Red Neck R... (5.13)
By: Louis Arevalo When: Apr 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12+ is a guess. Neither of us could link the short tips lieback and the rest of the route would go at 12 from the arete buisness. Although purple tcu's pro this section there are some sweeter spots for your digits. Small fingered climbers should have a look since this bit is only about 7' giving way to bigger slots for your check to the arete. Did you get on the route? What do you think it goes at?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a)
By: Louis Arevalo When: May 30, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent work! I was smiling the whole way. I found that pitch 3 was the real onsight crux with pitch 5 and 6 perhaps as difficult, but more visible. Pitch 5 is the money pitch. Arete pinching, toe hooking/scumming, smearing and exciting clipping, the rock is immaculate!
We climbed through pitch 7 and used a 70 meter to rap the route. It seems that rapping pitch 5 we used almost the entire length.
Easy to follow and super fun!
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Anchors From Hell (5.10c)
By: Louis Arevalo When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rumor has it the FA hammered an old nut tool into the crack and used it as an anchor to lower off of. It can still be seen about 6 feet above the bolt anchors.
Someone has added a PUSSY bolt about 8 feet below the anchor. This used to be the best part of the route making you actually think about the remaining 10 feet of climbing from GOOD gear to the end.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route (5.7)
By: Louis Arevalo When: May 16, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The remainder of the route gets better after bushwacking up to the second roof. This pitch is definately spooky, but can be protected, just clean the gravel out of the crack. There is a nice belay stance past the roof with a bolt to incorporate. The pitch following is a cool dihedral that is fairly clean, once it gets steep again 5.6/5.7. Different options exist here and most are mellow to the top of the tower 5.6. Watch your step, as the lower angle slabs are covered with gravel. To rap t... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Pine Canyon : Old Bushmills (5.10)
By: Louis Arevalo When: Oct 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is 2 cracks right of Lite Not Solid. It is a wide dihedral in beautiful varnished sandstone.
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