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Member Since: Oct 21, 2007
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Lotapowder

Point Rank: # 3,411
Total Points: 196
Last Year: 143
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lotapowder been climbing?










Contributions


All 68 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts | Stars 19 | Ratings 9

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : DOO (5.12b)
By: Lotapowder When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Great addition to the wall. Easy climbing to a distinct crux and some really fun resistance climbing to the chains.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Uncle Bill (5.12b)
By: Lotapowder When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: This route has always been called "The Chizzler" as there are several chiseled holds at the top of the route. Also the name in Pegg's guide...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Vertical Smile (5.12c)
By: Lotapowder When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: We have always called this route "The Drizzler" as the name has been there since it was put up and justly named as there is glue drizzled on the smooth cobbles at the crux. Also the name in Pegg's book. Whatever the name, this route is great. IMO best route on the wall. Get on it!!!


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Jackknifed (5.12c)
By: Lotapowder When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: I think this is one of the best routes on the wall. A fun tricky crux with some great resistance climbing to the top. Didn't find the knee-bar at the top and was pumped silly.

Anyone know the name and grade of the new route to the right with the fixed draws? I thought maybe 12b and really good...


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : Nuclear Sponge (5.12b)
By: Lotapowder When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: I just did this route again yesterday to see how hard the "broken hold" has made it. I have always used the anti-cobble and not the slopey pinch, so the difficulty hasn't changed at all. I always thought it was 12c, but it isn't any harder than it was origionally and definitely not 12c/d... Whatever the grade, it is a great route with a pretty hard crux with a pump on. Like Brad said, the section after the crux is awesome!


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Stilgar's Wild Ride (5.8) : Photo (Copy)
By: Lotapowder When: May 6, 2016

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Comments: Can't read the Orange font...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Unknown Pleasures : Touch of Grey (5.12a)
By: Lotapowder When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Hey Leif,
Browsing MP tonight I saw your post and thought I would chime in. Anyway, I was on the route the summer of 2014 and broke said hold off. I was not able to do the "new" move even off the dog and you are right about clipping the bolt.(VERY difficult) It would be interesting for someone stronger than I to go up there and let people know how hard it is now. Sorry:-(


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Watchtower : Step Right Up (5.12a)
By: Lotapowder When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Get your tech on! This route is really fun edge climbing, not the typical AF pocket pulling. I think a hand hold has come off by the 3rd bolt.(Pretty hard slimper pull to get to "the pocket"). It's pretty in your face from the bottom to the top with a great campsite rest in the middle.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Mr. Bad Luck (5.11c)
By: Lotapowder When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Zoso, the 1st pitch might be 5.9 on TR which is what we did, but to call that 5.9 to lead is the definition of Sandbag... IMO I don't know why the FA'er didn't just bolt it as it is fun to climb, but could get someone hurt if you blew it as it doesn't take good gear in the corner. The 2nd pitch has the best handcrack in BCC for about 10 feet, then traverses to a chossy overhang. Won't be back on this one...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Division Wall : Teenagers in Heat (5.10b/c)
By: Lotapowder When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: This route has been rebolted with glue-ins (along with most of the routes at Division). A couple of the bolts have been moved up on the slab to make it not as scary. There is a post about this route not being safe. If you can climb 5.10, with the new bolts IMO this route is not unsafe and quite fun. A bit of a change from the rest of the routes at Division with some good technical climbing up top.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Force of Nature (5.11a)
By: Lotapowder When: Aug 13, 2015

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Comments: Climbs a lot like Weed Killer on JHCOB Wall. Really fun technical climbing with plenty of rests. In the shade all day.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall : The Bewildering Minute (5.12c)
By: Lotapowder When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes at the crag. It has a little bit of everything; it eases you into the pitch with some fun easy climbing on jugs, then a technical crux at the slab, a power crux over the roof and a great endurance crux at the finish. Great job on this one Neal!


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Blonde Ambition (5.12a)
By: Lotapowder When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: Great route. The first few bolts had some really fun climbing. The crux below the bulge was really hard for me 6'1" and not bad for my partner (squatty and easier if you are shorter), and the bulge was really hard for my partner 5'5" and not bad for me (big reach and easier if you are taller). I agree with Jay, Man Chowder is a better route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Red Wall : Man Chowder (5.11d)
By: Lotapowder When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: This route is awesome! Really varied and sustained with great movement. Had to fight for the onsight on this one. My partner and I agree, it is the best route we did in the 4 days of our vacation at The Head.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Starcastle : Elliptical Seasons (5.12a)
By: Lotapowder When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: A bit of a handbag at 12a but really fun route and in a great position. A little unfortunate that someone had put tick marks on every possible feature on the route. Really takes away from people trying to onsight.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Upper Division Wall
By: Lotapowder When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Darren, you are correct except that the next routes right of Tim's route are actually three routes that share the same start. If you go up the first two bolts and then go left, like Kevin said, it is a route called "The Bewildering Minute" that Neal Carroll put up a couple years ago. It is 12c. Really good. If you go right at the second bolt, you go into the two routes that split at the forth bolt, "Empty Your Pockets" on the left and "Bender" on the right. A lot of bolts in this area...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Gothic Miller (5.11a)
By: Lotapowder When: Aug 18, 2013

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Comments: I think both pitches on this are great. I have done it a few times, and there is only one comment on it, so I thought I would chime in. Anyway, the first pitch is really fun "solid" rock. The second pitch is the "money" pitch and is a little spooky, but adds character to the pitch. Hard move off the belay, then big jugs out a series of roofs. Not many places you get that kind of exposure around here!!! FYI we did the first two pitches of Gothic Miller, lowered down to the top of the first ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Big in Japan (5.12b)
By: Lotapowder When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: I agree that the chains could be more inconspicuous, but the Metolius rap hangers are terrible. They kink up the rope and are a pain to thread.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Eagle Buttress and Environs : Ultralite Flight (5.11d) : Photo
By: Lotapowder When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: The "Hitman" is SOOO vascular!!!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Huecos Rancheros (5.12b/c)
By: Lotapowder When: May 22, 2012

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Comments: Regardless of the grade, these routes are unique and awesome!! Go get on them. FYI I just did Huecos with a 90m rope and only had about 10 feet of rope left when I reached the ground. It would be a rope stretcher with a 80m rope.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Big in Japan (5.12b)
By: Lotapowder When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: I don't think the greasy comment is appropriate. If you don't like 'em short and stout maybe it's not for you, but IMO it's a really cool 35' boulder problem with bolts.



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