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Member Since: Nov 21, 2006
Last Visit: Oct 11, 2014
Contact losbill


Point Rank: # 2,553
Total Points: 206
Last Year: 35
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has losbill been climbing?










Contributions


All 458 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 111 | Posts 51 | Stars 172 | Ratings 106
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6)
By: losbill When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: link the Oscar corner to Strictley roof, and then continue on to Shockley's 3rd Pitch

Just don't do it on a busy day since you will really tick off people coming up Strictley's and Shockley's. Besides it isn't all that good. Oscar's corner is just so-so and the second pitch is a long boring traverse over to Shockley's roof.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : A Peney for your freedom (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: Climbed A Peney For Your Freedom on Sunday with Todd. It is an excellent route. Although a bit short there are three distinct challenging sequences on it to keep you thinking. Mom Peney the flag we flew from the top of the climb will proudly fly at my house here in Massachusetts. It will be a daily reminder to family, friends and neighbors of your son's sacrifice for our freedom.


Location: MA : Mormon Hollow
By: losbill When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: When parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road. If I had been the farmer yesterday, I would have thrown a chain around the axle of the offending vehicle and "moved" it with the tractor to a more "convenient" location. Fortunately the farmer is a bit more laid back than me.


Location: MA : Mormon Hollow : Tree Crack (5.8)
By: losbill When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: Getting off the ground without stemming the tree seemed really hard. I stepped to the right, gained the good horizontal and used it to hand-traverse left to the bottom of the crack.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Pooh (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: You were on what is traditionally known as the 3rd pitch of Rollin' & Tumblin'. Rated 5.8, definitely MA 5.8+++ in my very humble opinion. This is the pitch Lee is describing as the second pitch of Pooh. Traditionally it isn't but this is a confused section of the cliff. As described by Lee his third pitch of Pooh is actually the third pitch of Orcs. It climbs way better than it looks!

For the record I have seconded the second pitch of Pooh once and led it once. On lead I tried several time... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: losbill When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Easier said than done. Good gear in the horizontal where Jason's right hand is. Climbing is easy up to that point but no gear. I am pretty sure the route has you stepping right on to the face well before where Jason is which has a horizontal that takes gear prior to getting the horizontal where Jason is. Regarding the seam to the left I didn't find any gear. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Groovy (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: A great stemming corner with a thoughtful moment or two getting things sorted out under the roof before escaping left, up and out. Definitely one of those pitches that leaves you wishing it were longer!

Regarding grading wouldn't it be more useful to add your contribution under the "Your rating" rather than expressing your opinion only as a comment? Everyone's experience is different and the consensus opinion, at least for me, is a valuable data point.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : A Peney for your freedom (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: What Seth said.

To paraphrase a famous quote...

We sleep soundly in our beds because brave and selfless men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.

I will travel to Crane Mountain soon and I will climb A Peney For Your Freedom and I will enjoy every move I make because that is the best way I can think of to give thanks to Jon for his sacrifice.

Hopefully I will do it with Todd who I know without asking found the best line he possibly could and clean... more >>


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Photo
By: losbill When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Oliver, are you sure about the Porcupine Habitat? Isn't that sign associated with the jumble of boulders before you get to the pictured Chimney Boulder which has the Bear Hug problem?


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: My comment was a bit tongue-in-cheek. I climb a fair bit in both places. I have witnessed rockfall, some it pretty substantial, on Cannon a number of times. Never at the Gunks. Nevertheless the only time I have gone for a ride due to loose rock was at the Gunks. I leaned back off a seemingly very solid large block I had just pulled down on under the roof on pitch two of Nurse's Aid for a photo from above by my partner. Off we went, the block and I. To quote Nick Goldsmith -

Climb like a... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Cannon is over rated for rock fall. Gunks is where it is happening. Couple of major rockfalls and at least one serious injury in the last couple of years. What is the tally on Cannon? A couple of bloody shins from climbing up the damn talus? Remember climb like a kitten!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5) : Photo
By: losbill When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: Congratulations! That is a beautiful pitch for your first trad lead!


Location: MA
By: losbill When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: So who was out at Crow Hill working Jane on Sunday 2/2/2014? Neglected to introduce myself. Could use some new cold weather partners since Doug moved away and Kevin is involved in coaching his girls in basketball! Despite my decrepit appearance and the fact I had a grandson in tow, I am steady on belay, can consistently top rope CroMag, and will someday get the crux of Jane (on toprope!). On the negative side I do drink a fair amount of beer and have been known to bring a bit of whiskey along ... more >>


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Main Face : Franny's Folly (5.7)
By: losbill When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Franny's Folly Direct (5.10a/b) is a fun and challenging variation to Franny's Folly. Head up to the broad white streak under an overhang directly below Franny's Folly finishing left-facing corner. The line is clearly evident from Barrett's excellent route photo.

Surmount the overhang and finish straight up through LF corner. I have always top roped it. Might be a dicey lead although there is a horizontal above the overhang that is reachable from below that would take a good, medium-sized ca... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: losbill When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Whoa!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Another thumbs up for the final pitch of Lakatakissima. Looking up I wasn't expecting much since it looked like it didn't get a lot of traffic. I was very pleasantly surprised. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Fun, interesting climbing at grade pretty much the entire pitch.


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Daniel

I'm a tradster and not much of a boulderer. V3 on a good day. That said I wouldn't mind getting out and sharing problems with you sometime. I will give you a heads up next time I'm headed over there.

Only climbing a month and you got the problem you call Indian Headdress! Small edges indeed! Hadn't been on it for a couple of years. I couldn't get the third move off the ground on it yesterday. Didn't want to commit to the high foot to the first good little shelf since I don't have a... more >>


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Photo
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: What's with all the chalk? Were you guys having a chalk ball target competition of some sort?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: losbill When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Nice pic Gail! Damn you are photogenic!!!!


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders
By: losbill When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Daniel, thanks for the maintenance! Haven't done my circuit out there for awhile. I will look forward to some nicely scrubbed problems. If you are planning to visit the area, be careful when you are out there especially late in the day. It is a popular area for deer hunters, and you don't want to be mistaken for a deer. Between archery, shotgun, and muzzle loaders, it is on from now until the first of the year. I have stumbled across fully camouflaged bow hunters out there before.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: losbill When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Rocknice - Did you really sink a lot of jams on DC? Despite the name it didn't seem to me to offer a lot of jamming.

Also for a dubber like me the first slightly overhanging/vertical 30' with somewhat awkward feeling holds felt pretty pumpy. It always gets my attention. I definitely get rests but for me they are not entirely straight forward.

When all is said and done though still an absolutely great climb.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: It is the V-groove that takes you off the left side of the huge ledge at the end of pitch 2. You go up left and then back right on less than great rock up to the double crack belay for the Pipe Pitch. The 5.8 crack variation goes off the huge ledge off to the right. If you have only done this 5.8 variation you might not recognize the terrain in the photo.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Practice Face (right end) : Ladybug (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Left of the tree. Plug gear, pull up and mantle on to the block. Bit nervy move. This finish seems consistent in grade with the crux.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Lakeview (5.6) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Just make sure you go up the RF dihedral to the right of the Au Cheval pitch and not up the dike into the corner that makes up the left side of where the Old Man used to be. Significantly harder than 5.8.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: losbill When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: I don't know Rich. Getting out to the Nose the way you describe is pretty easy. However I have not found the 2 or 3 moves up necessary to gain a stance and get gear in to be trivial at the 5.7 level. Plus the landing really sucks. Jagged boulders are not soft.

To be able to keep it safe at the grade level I think you may be better off with the start on the right, up the left-facing corner. Maybe I'll have to go back and give the Nose start another go to judge appropriately. It has been a... more >>


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