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Member Since: Nov 21, 2006
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact losbill


Point Rank: # 2,602
Total Points: 180
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas are worth 15
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All (424) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (14) | Comments (100) | Posts (46) | Stars (164) | Ratings (99)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5) : Photo
By: losbill When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: Congratulations! That is a beautiful pitch for your first trad lead!


Location: MA
By: losbill When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: So who was out at Crow Hill working Jane on Sunday 2/2/2014? Neglected to introduce myself. Could use some new cold weather partners since Doug moved away and Kevin is involved in coaching his girls in basketball! Despite my decrepit appearance and the fact I had a grandson in tow, I am steady on belay, can consistently top rope CroMag, and will someday get the crux of Jane (on toprope!). On the negative side I do drink a fair amount of beer and have been known to bring a bit of whiskey along ... more >>


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Main Face : Franny's Folly (5.7)
By: losbill When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Franny's Folly Direct (5.10a/b) is a fun and challenging variation to Franny's Folly. Head up to the broad white streak under an overhang directly below Franny's Folly finishing left-facing corner. The line is clearly evident from Barrett's excellent route photo.

Surmount the overhang and finish straight up through LF corner. I have always top roped it. Might be a dicey lead although there is a horizontal above the overhang that is reachable from below that would take a good, medium-sized ca... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: losbill When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Whoa!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Another thumbs up for the final pitch of Lakatakissima. Looking up I wasn't expecting much since it looked like it didn't get a lot of traffic. I was very pleasantly surprised. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Fun, interesting climbing at grade pretty much the entire pitch.


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Daniel

I'm a tradster and not much of a boulderer. V3 on a good day. That said I wouldn't mind getting out and sharing problems with you sometime. I will give you a heads up next time I'm headed over there.

Only climbing a month and you got the problem you call Indian Headdress! Small edges indeed! Hadn't been on it for a couple of years. I couldn't get the third move off the ground on it yesterday. Didn't want to commit to the high foot to the first good little shelf since I don't have a... more >>


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Photo
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: What's with all the chalk? Were you guys having a chalk ball target competition of some sort?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: losbill When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Nice pic Gail! Damn you are photogenic!!!!


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders
By: losbill When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Daniel, thanks for the maintenance! Haven't done my circuit out there for awhile. I will look forward to some nicely scrubbed problems. If you are planning to visit the area, be careful when you are out there especially late in the day. It is a popular area for deer hunters, and you don't want to be mistaken for a deer. Between archery, shotgun, and muzzle loaders, it is on from now until the first of the year. I have stumbled across fully camouflaged bow hunters out there before.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: losbill When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Rocknice - Did you really sink a lot of jams on DC? Despite the name it didn't seem to me to offer a lot of jamming.

Also for a dubber like me the first slightly overhanging/vertical 30' with somewhat awkward feeling holds felt pretty pumpy. It always gets my attention. I definitely get rests but for me they are not entirely straight forward.

When all is said and done though still an absolutely great climb.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: It is the V-groove that takes you off the left side of the huge ledge at the end of pitch 2. You go up left and then back right on less than great rock up to the double crack belay for the Pipe Pitch. The 5.8 crack variation goes off the huge ledge off to the right. If you have only done this 5.8 variation you might not recognize the terrain in the photo.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Practice Face (right end) : Ladybug (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Left of the tree. Plug gear, pull up and mantle on to the block. Bit nervy move. This finish seems consistent in grade with the crux.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Lakeview (5.6) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Just make sure you go up the RF dihedral to the right of the Au Cheval pitch and not up the dike into the corner that makes up the left side of where the Old Man used to be. Significantly harder than 5.8.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: losbill When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: I don't know Rich. Getting out to the Nose the way you describe is pretty easy. However I have not found the 2 or 3 moves up necessary to gain a stance and get gear in to be trivial at the 5.7 level. Plus the landing really sucks. Jagged boulders are not soft.

To be able to keep it safe at the grade level I think you may be better off with the start on the right, up the left-facing corner. Maybe I'll have to go back and give the Nose start another go to judge appropriately. It has been a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5) : Photo
By: losbill When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: Yes. You are correct. Sixish was my first Gunks lead. Misread guide book and ended up dealing with the block. My daughter with little trad experience was my partner that day. She got a little overwhelmed by the first pitch and there were a few tears at the first belay. But she rallied nicely and we ended up having a great time. Great climb. There is a lot to it.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : The Buttress : Buttress (5.9 R) : Photo
By: losbill When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: The climber is doing what we refer to as the direct start to The Fool On The Hill. It is pretty thin and delicate climbing. The regular start utilizes the cracks to the left of the climber. The Fool's line continues pretty much straight up where the climber's rope runs. The Buttress starts where the rope from the belayer runs and then trends out right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: losbill When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the reply Seth. I will certainly defer to Dana given his history with and knowledge of all things Gunks. But if CHD ends where Bonnie's ends how does Dick give CHD 90' and the Original route only 60'? I'm coming to the conclusion Dick's description and photo are just a bit confusing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: losbill When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: I'm confused. It has been a number of years since I have attempted to do Cool Hand Dukes but as I recall my attempt brought me pretty far to the right of the big pine tree marking the end of the original P2. I ended up above Bonnie's P2 finish on white stacked blocks. I recall thinking the rock was scary and the pro was lousy, particularly as I attempted to continue up and right. Bailed left pretty much horizontally about 12 to 17 feet to the big pine tree.

Seth what book are you referring ... more >>


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Trashcan Boulder
By: losbill When: Mar 15, 2013

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Comments: Taylor -- No worries. I wasn't offended but simply confused, as I often am! -- Bill


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Trashcan Boulder
By: losbill When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Eric,

You are right, it is Trashcan. I looked quickly and thought it was the Double Roof. I can do Double Roof!!!

Anyone been out at Ayer recently? I have twice seen a white pickup at the pulloff as well as two vehicles another time, and the trail looked well packed last night. If so, give me a shout and we can compare notes and problems.

Bill


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Trashcan Boulder
By: losbill When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Oops! Just noticed a V9 grading. Must more than one problem on it. The only way I could get a V9 done is by aiding up it!


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Trashcan Boulder
By: losbill When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Taylor,

I'm confused. You are from New Mexico and posting up about Ayer, Massachusetts bouldering? BTW what would you grade it at. I'm not much of a boulderer. Easier to do than it appears from the photo!

Bill


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Central : ... : Photo
By: losbill When: Mar 1, 2013

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Comments: Looking good Big Guy!


Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Idiot's Deluxe (5.10d)
By: losbill When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: I do believe there are three ways of dealing with the crux defined as from the beginning of the business to gaining the good holds above the horizontal. I think, based upon personal experience and observation, 98% of climbers choose a sequence other than what I think Jim intended when he put it up. Which I think is less strenuous than what most people do and not terribly obvious. Hint: Chalk is not always your best guide. Someone ought to ask Jim how he did it when he put it up. I would but I ... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Yoda (5.9)
By: losbill When: Oct 22, 2012

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Comments: Best enjoyed while leading with two people shouting, very earnestly, conflicting beta to you. Especially when one clmbs 11+ with an ape index off the charts and incredible grip strength and the other is your favorite partner, who I love dearly, who is somewhat less than 5 foot tall and weighs all of 90 lbs, and who was belaying me and wasn't tied down, and climbs 5.9+ on her best day!!! Visions of impacting the sharp boulders just beneath me danced in my head. All ended well! Kind of ignored bo... more >>


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