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Member Since: Nov 21, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 435 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvments | Comments 107 | Posts 48 | Stars 164 | Ratings 100
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Pooh (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: You were on what is traditionally known as the 3rd pitch of Rollin' & Tumblin'. Rated 5.8, definitely MA 5.8+++ in my very humble opinion. This is the pitch Lee is describing as the second pitch of Pooh. Traditionally it isn't but this is a confused section of the cliff. As described by Lee his third pitch of Pooh is actually the third pitch of Orcs. It climbs way better than it looks!

For the record I have seconded the second pitch of Pooh once and led it once. On lead I tried several time... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: losbill When: Jun 26, 2014

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Comments: Easier said than done. Good gear in the horizontal where Jason's right hand is. Climbing is easy up to that point but no gear. I am pretty sure the route has you stepping right on to the face well before where Jason is which has a horizontal that takes gear prior to getting the horizontal where Jason is. Regarding the seam to the left I didn't find any gear. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Groovy (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: A great stemming corner with a thoughtful moment or two getting things sorted out under the roof before escaping left, up and out. Definitely one of those pitches that leaves you wishing it were longer!

Regarding grading wouldn't it be more useful to add your contribution under the "Your rating" rather than expressing your opinion only as a comment? Everyone's experience is different and the consensus opinion, at least for me, is a valuable data point.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Crane Mountain : TeePee Wall : A Peney for your freedom (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Jun 13, 2014

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Comments: What Seth said.

To paraphrase a famous quote...

We sleep soundly in our beds because brave and selfless men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.

I will travel to Crane Mountain soon and I will climb A Peney For Your Freedom and I will enjoy every move I make because that is the best way I can think of to give thanks to Jon for his sacrifice.

Hopefully I will do it with Todd who I know without asking found the best line he possibly could and clean... more >>


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Photo
By: losbill When: May 12, 2014

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Comments: Oliver, are you sure about the Porcupine Habitat? Isn't that sign associated with the jumble of boulders before you get to the pictured Chimney Boulder which has the Bear Hug problem?


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: My comment was a bit tongue-in-cheek. I climb a fair bit in both places. I have witnessed rockfall, some it pretty substantial, on Cannon a number of times. Never at the Gunks. Nevertheless the only time I have gone for a ride due to loose rock was at the Gunks. I leaned back off a seemingly very solid large block I had just pulled down on under the roof on pitch two of Nurse's Aid for a photo from above by my partner. Off we went, the block and I. To quote Nick Goldsmith -

Climb like a... more >>


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 8, 2014

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Comments: Cannon is over rated for rock fall. Gunks is where it is happening. Couple of major rockfalls and at least one serious injury in the last couple of years. What is the tally on Cannon? A couple of bloody shins from climbing up the damn talus? Remember climb like a kitten!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Layback (5.5) : Photo
By: losbill When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: Congratulations! That is a beautiful pitch for your first trad lead!


Location: MA
By: losbill When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: So who was out at Crow Hill working Jane on Sunday 2/2/2014? Neglected to introduce myself. Could use some new cold weather partners since Doug moved away and Kevin is involved in coaching his girls in basketball! Despite my decrepit appearance and the fact I had a grandson in tow, I am steady on belay, can consistently top rope CroMag, and will someday get the crux of Jane (on toprope!). On the negative side I do drink a fair amount of beer and have been known to bring a bit of whiskey along ... more >>


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Main Face : Franny's Folly (5.7)
By: losbill When: Nov 24, 2013

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Comments: Franny's Folly Direct (5.10a/b) is a fun and challenging variation to Franny's Folly. Head up to the broad white streak under an overhang directly below Franny's Folly finishing left-facing corner. The line is clearly evident from Barrett's excellent route photo.

Surmount the overhang and finish straight up through LF corner. I have always top roped it. Might be a dicey lead although there is a horizontal above the overhang that is reachable from below that would take a good, medium-sized ca... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : On Any Monday (5.11-)
By: losbill When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Whoa!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Another thumbs up for the final pitch of Lakatakissima. Looking up I wasn't expecting much since it looked like it didn't get a lot of traffic. I was very pleasantly surprised. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Fun, interesting climbing at grade pretty much the entire pitch.


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Daniel

I'm a tradster and not much of a boulderer. V3 on a good day. That said I wouldn't mind getting out and sharing problems with you sometime. I will give you a heads up next time I'm headed over there.

Only climbing a month and you got the problem you call Indian Headdress! Small edges indeed! Hadn't been on it for a couple of years. I couldn't get the third move off the ground on it yesterday. Didn't want to commit to the high foot to the first good little shelf since I don't have a... more >>


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders : Photo
By: losbill When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: What's with all the chalk? Were you guys having a chalk ball target competition of some sort?


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cascading Crystal Kaleidosc... (5.8 PG13) : Photo
By: losbill When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: Nice pic Gail! Damn you are photogenic!!!!


Location: MA : Ayer Boulders
By: losbill When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: Daniel, thanks for the maintenance! Haven't done my circuit out there for awhile. I will look forward to some nicely scrubbed problems. If you are planning to visit the area, be careful when you are out there especially late in the day. It is a popular area for deer hunters, and you don't want to be mistaken for a deer. Between archery, shotgun, and muzzle loaders, it is on from now until the first of the year. I have stumbled across fully camouflaged bow hunters out there before.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Double Crack (5.8)
By: losbill When: Oct 16, 2013

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Comments: Rocknice - Did you really sink a lot of jams on DC? Despite the name it didn't seem to me to offer a lot of jamming.

Also for a dubber like me the first slightly overhanging/vertical 30' with somewhat awkward feeling holds felt pretty pumpy. It always gets my attention. I definitely get rests but for me they are not entirely straight forward.

When all is said and done though still an absolutely great climb.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 1. Whitney-Gilman Area : Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: losbill When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: It is the V-groove that takes you off the left side of the huge ledge at the end of pitch 2. You go up left and then back right on less than great rock up to the double crack belay for the Pipe Pitch. The 5.8 crack variation goes off the huge ledge off to the right. If you have only done this 5.8 variation you might not recognize the terrain in the photo.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : Practice Face (right end) : Ladybug (5.8+)
By: losbill When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Left of the tree. Plug gear, pull up and mantle on to the block. Bit nervy move. This finish seems consistent in grade with the crux.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 5. Slabs : Lakeview (5.6) : Photo
By: losbill When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: Just make sure you go up the RF dihedral to the right of the Au Cheval pitch and not up the dike into the corner that makes up the left side of where the Old Man used to be. Significantly harder than 5.8.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Yellow Ridge (5.7)
By: losbill When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: I don't know Rich. Getting out to the Nose the way you describe is pretty easy. However I have not found the 2 or 3 moves up necessary to gain a stance and get gear in to be trivial at the 5.7 level. Plus the landing really sucks. Jagged boulders are not soft.

To be able to keep it safe at the grade level I think you may be better off with the start on the right, up the left-facing corner. Maybe I'll have to go back and give the Nose start another go to judge appropriately. It has been a... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5) : Photo
By: losbill When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: Yes. You are correct. Sixish was my first Gunks lead. Misread guide book and ended up dealing with the block. My daughter with little trad experience was my partner that day. She got a little overwhelmed by the first pitch and there were a few tears at the first belay. But she rallied nicely and we ended up having a great time. Great climb. There is a lot to it.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : The Buttress : Buttress (5.9 R) : Photo
By: losbill When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: The climber is doing what we refer to as the direct start to The Fool On The Hill. It is pretty thin and delicate climbing. The regular start utilizes the cracks to the left of the climber. The Fool's line continues pretty much straight up where the climber's rope runs. The Buttress starts where the rope from the belayer runs and then trends out right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: losbill When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for the reply Seth. I will certainly defer to Dana given his history with and knowledge of all things Gunks. But if CHD ends where Bonnie's ends how does Dick give CHD 90' and the Original route only 60'? I'm coming to the conclusion Dick's description and photo are just a bit confusing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Sleepwalk (5.7)
By: losbill When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: I'm confused. It has been a number of years since I have attempted to do Cool Hand Dukes but as I recall my attempt brought me pretty far to the right of the big pine tree marking the end of the original P2. I ended up above Bonnie's P2 finish on white stacked blocks. I recall thinking the rock was scary and the pro was lousy, particularly as I attempted to continue up and right. Bailed left pretty much horizontally about 12 to 17 feet to the big pine tree.

Seth what book are you referring ... more >>


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