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Posing on Escape Artist.. Black Canyon


Member Since: Feb 6, 2006
Last Visit: Jan 21, 2013
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 169 | Routes | Areas | Photos 24 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 1 | Stars 105 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : This Bone's For You (5.9)
By: Lordsokol When: Jan 20, 2013

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Comments: Clean, a bit polished, but fantastic climbing.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : New Era (5.7)
By: Lordsokol When: Mar 1, 2010

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Comments: Just for clarification about the discussion between John and Cody above.... Cody was correct, he was NOT at the New Generation anchors. There are two pitons at the top of the New Era alcove (the very top, by the horn that can be slung). I noticed those pitons go up Spring '06. I used to climb the route several times a week as part of my morning routine. I think the pins are fine, I've rapped off them many times. On a 60m rope, you can rap down to the belay alcove above the splitter crack. ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Lordsokol When: Nov 19, 2009

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Comments: I just read the above comments about the round trip times. Thanks for the encouragement. After I topped out, I descended the Keyhole route each time. I'm sure that added more time. When I go again I will plan on bringing a rope and rappelling either the Diamond or the Cable Route.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Lordsokol When: Aug 31, 2009

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Comments: See above comment....

Success 8.5 hours car-to-car (August 30). I hear some Pikes Peak Marathon runner from Manitou Springs has this beat by at least 23 minutes though!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Upper East Face : Kiener's Route (5.3 Easy Snow)
By: Lordsokol When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Free-soloed on August 15th. 9 hours car-to-car. Hoping to shave an hour off that time next week....

P.S. The step around the block on Broadway is way more intimidating when you read about it. Once you see it, it's really pretty benign.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Lordsokol When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: I rope-soloed this route last night after work. I typically won't rope-solo unless the route is fairly straightforward. Such is the case with this route. There are plenty of options for gear, and you can choose to run out as much or little as you like... even on the crux. I found it easier to blast the crux with no pro but what I placed at the very start of the 'overhang'. It's only about 12 feet and there are really only two 5.7ish moves. The rest above the crux comes quickly, so I wasn't ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Blind Assumption (WI5 M5)
By: Lordsokol When: Nov 1, 2008

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Comments: Climbed with Phil Wortmann on Halloween, 2008. This a very serious climb when dry like we found it. The first pitch was solid with only one hard move left around a block. The second pitch was desperate. The ice on the right side of the huge, overhanging chockstone was so thin and sublimated it wouldn't have held a fart. We went to the left up a weird dry crack system, shimmied on our backs above a boulder and below and overhanging roof, tiptoed out on top of the thin, creepy "ice" and up thr... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Ellingwood Ledges (5.7)
By: Lordsokol When: Aug 4, 2008

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Comments: I free soloed this route yesterday morning. Started from the jeep (end of road - South Colony trailhead) at 3:45am. I did the direct start and the "head on" finish up high. I watched the sunrise from below the upper headwall while I ate my power gel breakfast. I reached the summit by 6:30am. (1 hour and 20 minutes from lake to summit - such are the advantages of not burdening yourself with a bunch of gear.) Got back to the car by 9:15am. I hung around on the summit for a while taking pict... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Lumina (5.9)
By: Lordsokol When: Jun 9, 2008

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Comments: I really wouldn't rate this as a 5.9. It was certainly a fantastic climb, and I gave it 4 stars, because it is long and spicy. I would call it a solid 5.8, but not much more. There are plenty of rests throughout, and every time you need a hold, it is there for you. Also, the bolt placement alone makes it fairly easy compared to most crack climbs.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : So Wild (5.10+)
By: Lordsokol When: Apr 8, 2008

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Comments: One of the early moves on this route is an awkward move out from a chimney/crack and around a right overhang to the face. The second "crux" would be a gentle mantle up to underneath the overhang at the top. From there, undercling and move left to around the corner. The moves on this are definitely "wild". This is one of the most interesting and unique granite pitches I have ever been on!


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Reptile (5.10)
By: Lordsokol When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: This is a pumpy route. Save your strength on the bottom, and get high quick so you have the energy you need. The holds are solid and slightly overhanging. Take small to medium gear.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Lordsokol When: Oct 14, 2007

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Comments: Climbed yesterday with P.W. This was a hard route, but VERY fun. Definitely one of the most sustained routes in the Black Canyon. There was just really no place to rest or take a break. Every pitch demanded our full attention. Here are a few specifics:

The 3rd class approach, (unless we went some other way -which I don't think we did) was NOT 3rd class. Call it what it is... hard 4th class or 5.0. (See P.W. comments above) We roped up for it because there were definitely some moves that... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Southeast Face (5.8+ R)
By: Lordsokol When: Jul 18, 2007

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Comments: F.Y.I

The first ascent of this route was done by Harvey Carter in the 70s.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Casual Route (5.10a)
By: Lordsokol When: Jul 9, 2007

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Comments: This route is fantastic. Climbed this weekend and barely escaped the thunderstorms. It's a tough day if you do it in one push from the parking lot, but it can be done. A few notes:

The 5.8 corner (p4 or p5) really may be the best 5.8+ crack in Colorado. We did the whole thing in one pitch, and it was very sustained and tough! I know it's just 5.8, but wait 'till you get up there at altitude and do a nearly 200' sustained pitch of it. There's just no where to rest on this pitch, except abo... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R)
By: Lordsokol When: Jul 2, 2007

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Comments: Climbed the North Pillar this weekend. We did a slight variation to the info above, and I thought it'd be helpful to post our progress.
The 4x4 road is still open to the trail head (about 2 miles from the lake). We got an early start (4am) and were walking off the top of the pillar by 11:30am. The crux of this climb may actually be the approach. Above the lake we crossed loose talus and some boiler plate snow fields in low morning light. That took a lot of concentration. Once at the base... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Lordsokol When: Jun 26, 2007

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Comments: Climbed with Phil Wortmann this Saturday. We started on "in between" aka Right Dihedral. After three pitches, we decided to traverse right and finish on Jackson Johnson. We climbed the last 4 pitches of that route. The only things to say are; route finding is a bit more tricky than most big walls in the area, the top 5.9 move feels much harder after a long day of climbing (the bolt is way too old and spooky to trust but there's a nice place for a #1 cam several feet above it)... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Lost in Space (5.9)
By: Lordsokol When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: P.W. and I climbed the route this weekend. A party was just starting when we arrived, so we warmed up on the Southeast Face. After running up that (just under an hour and a half) we had time to sneak in an attempt before the afternoon thunderstorms moved in. The first pitch of Lost in Space felt like easy 5.9. The little tree sticking out of the crack on the first pitch mentioned in Green's book was burned in the fire, so it is now just a stump... but it's still there. The second p... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sheep's Nose : Southeast Face (5.8+ R)
By: Lordsokol When: May 15, 2007

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Comments: This route was fun. P.W. and I climbed this weekend and had a great time. Route finding is not bad, and the only difficulty was a little water on the crux. To avoid the water, I just climbed the runout face to the right for about 20 feet and got back to the crack. 1 long pitch (just under 200') and 2 shorter pitches is all it took us. About 1 hour 20 minutes from base to summit.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: Lordsokol When: Jun 18, 2006

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday. We did it in three pitches and 2.5 hours. The first pitch really is not that bad at all. Maybe most of the bad stuff has been climbed off by now. The rock on all the pitches above P1 was amazing. Very fun and solid with crack jaming, lieback and face move variations all the way up. The roof above the crux pitch should not be climbed around as suggested in the description. Take the roof, it's only an easy 5.8- move or two to pull it, and worth the "effort". I... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: Lordsokol When: May 22, 2006

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Comments: I climbed this route with Phil Wortman two days ago. I had a good time on it. I lead the first two pitches as one on a 60m rope. That first lead was completely worthy of the name of the route. This pitch was a very enjoyable 5.8 crack climb in the beautiful Black. Above that, Phil lead the "crux" pitch. He hated it. Following it wasn't too bad though. After the third pitch, we did the nice face climbing above and instead of moving right and going up the loose gully, I lead up the fourth ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Lordsokol When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: Get an early start! This route is getting popular. We left the campground at 5:30am and were first on the route. By the time we were at the second belay stance, there were two parties on our tail. We were not climbing slowly either. (We did the entire route from the first move to the summit rappel in 6 hours).

Also, even though it is rated 5.10, it seemed hard. I think that the thin hands crack on the second pitch (splitter), and the 4th pitch were definitely the cruxes. The 4th pitch ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: Lordsokol When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: I for one appreciate the efforts. The new anchors are great and much needed. I climbed the route again yesterday and the difference is huge. I think those "scars" will be gone by the end of next month at the rate that the Garden erodes, so I'm not too worried. Plus you can't even see the scars until you are right up on them. Thanks again, guys.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock
By: Lordsokol When: Apr 24, 2006

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Comments: Back in 1997 I climbed in this area. I lead up Captain Fist and then top ropped Death by Drowning's first pitch. While playing around on the top ropped route I had a near death experience. I climbed the route and stood at the belay stance ready to come down. The person I allowed to belay me on top rope was a guy I had met that day as there was a large group of us on the rocks all being "buddy buddy". I had just watched him competently belay his son so had some confidence in him as a belayer... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : Total Abandon (WI4+ M6)
By: Lordsokol When: Apr 23, 2006

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Comments: Phil Wortman and I climbed this route yesterday. We completed it but without much ICE. I'd say the first pitch had about half of an inch of sketchy ice on it. The second pitch had NO ice on it. Just about a foot or so of snow that had to be cleared to get to the rock below it. This was a sketchy lead. It was crumbly up to about the third pitch when finally we found some ice (just above the overhanging crux...and Thank GOD it was there because it was a struggle to clear that bulge and just ... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End : Anaconda (5.11c)
By: Lordsokol When: Apr 20, 2006

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Comments: This is easily the best climb in the Garden and rivals most in the state. It is sustained and smooth. You'll forget you are climbing on the Garden's normally rotten rock. The first part of the first pitch can be a little pumpy on lead, so save your energy for the upper part of the route and blast through this part quickly if you can.


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