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Member Since: Oct 27, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 22, 2014
Contact Lluis Penalver-Aguila


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Total Points: 58
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Lluis Penalver-Aguila been climbing?










Lluis Penalver-Aguila

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 38 | Routes | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 28 | Posts | Stars 4 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Clip Jr. (5.6)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Quick climb up the pillar and first 3 bolts leads to a slightly runout 4th bolt, then to the arete and some fun moves up to the top. Fun easy climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Imprisoned Behind Lies (5.6)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Jun 2, 2011

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Comments: Agreed, good beginner's lead. Straight forward up the face through 6 bolts, a little run out (but easy) towards the right for bolt 7, swings left up a mini ramp for bolts 8-10. Fun climb!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Mighty Quinn (5.10c)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: The jug above the anchors is a blind hold for shorter climbers. Use the side pull to the right of the anchors as an intermediary before going up for the jug.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Reach for the Sky (5.10b)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: Tricky start for shorter climbers. Pretty burly from the first hold through the slanted ledge. Eases off past the starting ledge.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Panning for Gold (5.10b)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Aug 22, 2010

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Comments: Fun climb with a variety of power moves, high steps, and tricky body position through the slanted chimney/roof.

Clipped the 3rd bolt on the roof but swung out to the right to climb over the bulge and to the top.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Great Burrito : Fat Free (5.10a)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb's got all the variety one can look for: thin face moves, a bit of crack climbing up the seams, layback off a thin and loose flake on the left between bolts 2&3, and some power moves to the top. Didn't see any fixed pin, and bolts 2&3 look pretty weathered. Probably a 5.9+ but consider it a 10a between bolts 2 and 3. There's a new sling at the top for anyone to TR this one (couldn't get a the sling out after 15 mins of tugging at it). Pro to 2" near the top. What a blast!


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Easy Street : Hippie Chick (5.10c)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: Felt more like a 5.9+ than 10c. Tough start move leads to positive but loose holds all the way to the top. As of 9/13/09, there was a bail biner at the last anchor, fun upper section to this wall. Agree that this wall probably should not have been bolted. Works as a TR. BIG rocks came off this wall all day long.

Two raps on a 60m will get you to the ground.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Easy Street : The Serpent (5.10a)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Sep 14, 2009

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Comments: The first pitch is very loose, make sure you're belayer and other people on the ground are aware of any rocks that come off.

P2 feels more like 5.8/5.9. Pulling over the roof at the P1 belay station and the finish to the anchors are the only 5.9 moves on P2. I agree, a fall just below the second bolt would land you hard at the P1 belay station. Positive but loose holds throughout.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Started this one with the low undercling to the crimps above, strenuous to the first bolt, then holds increase in size. Move left before reaching the roof on Public Hanging and continue up on sharp flakes. Rest where you can, the finish is a pull over a small roof.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Motherlode (5.11b)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: The first section is thin below the first bolt, but seems easier to the left (encroaching on Golden Nugget?). Better holds at the second bolt, and a swing move puts you over the edge and in the open book. Solid 5.8 the rest of the way up.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Golden Nugget (5.10a)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: 5.10a at the start and moving from bolt 2 to 3. I have to agree it felt like a 7/8 after that. Grab the jug/horn up and to the right of bolt 3 while clipping. Over the slab the feet are good, and there are solid edges on the last 10-15 feet to the anchors.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Fire in the Hole (5.10a)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: Pumpy start through the first bolt, that eases off on the upper slab section. I thought the crux was at the 4th bolt and involves stepping high with small edge hand holds.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Blonde Dwarf (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 28, 2009

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Comments: Liz looks up at the rest of Blonde Dwarf


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Shere Khan (aka A Fraction ... (5.10b) : Photo
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 28, 2009

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Comments: Tony Tennessee leads up the mid section of Fraction of the Action


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Tuna Cookies (5.7 R)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: Easy start to the first bolt, but requires a committing 1-2 step move left to clip the bolt ~30 feet up. Rest of the climb is a blast with a variety of large and small (but positive) holds. I think this is listed as "Albacore Man" in the old Todd Swain guidebook.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Blonde Dwarf (5.9 PG13)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: Follow the right leaning crack until it peters out in the dish. Up the dish and to the left to clip two bolts and end at the anchors to the left. The crux is in the dish with a high step on low handholds (shorter climber) with a reach to a very positive hold above. Strenuous at the crack only.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Electric Koolaid (5.9+)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: Stay left from the start up through bolt 4. Move rightat the 4th bolt to the 5th bolt then straight up to the anchors. A bit more strenuous then Neon Sunset, but positive holds throughout. As a TR, we left the 4th bolt clipped as a directional.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Magic Bus : Neon Sunset (5.8)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: 9 bolts spaced 5 feet apart or so. The holds are positive all the way up, with a a few high steps and side pulls for the shorter climber.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Tonto (5.5)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 13, 2009

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Comments: Led up this yesterday. Two slings and a rap ring were at the top just above Kemosabe. Fun climb that takes nuts or cams. Keep and eye out for rope drag at the overhanging finish. I backtracked and placed a long runner on my last piece to reduce the drag for the belay. Rap off or walk off to the right (past Ragged Edges)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Kemosabe (5.10a)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: A couple of pieces of small pro can be placed at the first ledge up from the start and up the first half of the right leaning seam. Edgy climb with thru-stepping halfway up before the bolt. I went left at the bolt as this seemed easier. Lots of smearing and careful foot placement is necessary.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Ragged Edges (5.8)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: Fun two pitch climb that requires big cams on the second pitch. Climb up the crack on pitch 1, moving right onto the face about near the tope of the pitch. The crux on Pitch 1 is 1 or 2 moves before the belay station anchors. Stay right, get to the anchor height, then traverse left to the anchors. The crux to the second pitch is the move out from the anchors and onto the face right of the crack. Place a cam or two in the crack before heading out on the face. Runs out near the top, and it's very ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tiger Stripe Wall : Shere Khan (aka A Fraction ... (5.10b)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: Great climb with solid holds throughout. Someone has left bailout biners at bolts 7 and 8. We used a 70m for the full length as a 60m will leave you about 10-15ft off the ground on the way down.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Lazy Day (5.7)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: Fun climb that puts one into some awkward positions. Fairly good pro throughout, a few spots are run out but holds are solid.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Direct South Face (5.9)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: What a fun climb! Mellow start up the dihedral to the roof. Pitch 1 crux is the stem/heel hook at the roof onto the face. Pitch 2 crux is just above the belay station. A few unusual moves at the second crux but the holds and pro are solid. Only feels like a 5.9 at the two cruxes!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : The Mikado (5.6)
By: Lluis Penalver-Aguila When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: Fun short route with the crux at the start of the open book. Above the crux it's a blast and has opportunities for hand/foot jams and holds outside the crack as well.


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