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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Fire Wall : Groove Tube (5.9-)
By: Livia When: Jan 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think some of the variability in ratings for this climb has to do with the polished rock combined with the heat and humidity. On a cool(ish), dry(ish) day, this would feel 5.8. On a hot, humid (read--normal) day, this feels like climbing on butter (damp hands combined with chalk) spread on glass and feels more low 5.10. That said, I had a blast. For those that really enjoy climbing unique features on a non-contrived route, this is your climb.
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Tonsai Bay : Monitor Wall : Beauty and the Beast (5.11a)
By: Livia When: Jan 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting off P3 can be a bit of a pain but it was definitely the most fun pitch of the route. P1 isn't that sharp if you are used to the limestone at Shelf Road, CO
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Location: International : Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Estrellita (5.11a)
By: Livia When: May 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ti-Fou asked me to marry him by writing "will you marry me" in the register at the summit of this climb.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cash Wall : Funny Money (5.10b/c)
By: Livia When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of small pieces came off during my climb and I passed one big (and chalked up) hollow flake. Overall IMHO it isn't as good of quality of rock as the routes to the left (West) of it. Others in my group liked it more than I did.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Breezy (5.5)
By: Livia When: Jul 17, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Comment on the 'good for new leader?' question: I would suggest this as a perfect lead for someone new to trad leading but with a fair amount of sport leading (at higher grades than this) under her belt. My reasoning is that even if the moves can be spicy (love that word, thanks) for someone nervous on lead, the climb has ample protection friendly to a new trad leader to place in. It was my second trad lead and was just exposed enough and with enough 5.7-if-you-arent-using-Eldo-ratings moves to ... more >>
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Butt Wall : Little Flatulence (5.8)
By: Livia When: Jun 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the scrambly not-so-fun start, this route makes a nice moderate start to the day, but if you're so inclined the two 5.9s to the left of the gear route (which is to the left of this route) are much more fun.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Schooldaze (5.5)
By: Livia When: Jun 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After finishing the 5.4 crack you are still about 15-20 feet from the summit and are on a huge BBQ ledge. There are a few options from there to get to the actual summit that seemed to vary greatly in difficulty to our group and none of the guide info we had described them. So, I thought I would leave my personal impressions of that section.
If you are imagining the summit as a circle and you are looking straight down on it and the northern downclimb is 12 o'clock then you finish the 5.4 crack a... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Missing Hangers (5.10a)
By: Livia When: Jun 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another vote for 5.not-fun. It could always be my climbing of course, but this route generally felt awkward and without flow.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Unknown Left of Knot Head (5.9)
By: Livia When: Feb 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is called "The Opportunist" in the new Knapp book and follows the larger of the two cracks in the photo I submitted. The route to the right starting on the much smaller crack (10 black coldshuts to 2 bolt anchor) is called "Enterprise" (rated 5.9+ in same).
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Sloppy Shoes (5.10a)
By: Livia When: Sep 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route. It is possible to top-rope this climb after leading the 5.8 just to the left (unknown 1).
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Bat Crack (5.10b/c)
By: Livia When: Aug 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ignoring absolute numbers/ratings in favor of relativism, IMHO, FWIW, this route felt harder than Period Piece and about the same as Red Dog...perhaps with a harder crux move than Red Dog.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Damn Right I've Got the Mov... (5.8+)
By: Livia When: Jul 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nicely bolted for a newish 5.8+ leader.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : Pike's Peak (5.7)
By: Livia When: Mar 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route has 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Agreed that the start is the trickiest portion of the route.Very nice slab about 15 feet to first bolt. There is 25 foot (or so) between bolts 3 and 4. The climb is a ladder of ledges and jugs at that point, but perhaps something to consider if throwing a new leader on this route.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall
By: Livia When: Mar 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sayers Wall is the third wall on the East side of the canyon. The first wall is undeveloped. The second wall is Westbay and the third is Sayers. As you are following the main trail from the parking lot stay to the far left. About a 10min walk in you will pass a pond, again stay left (on the wide dirt road). Sayers wall is the first wall in the aspens. The excellent guidebook is available for about ten bucks at the Garden of the Gods center where you are required to register annually.
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