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Member Since: Aug 29, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact L Stern

Point Rank: # 2,087
Total Points: 307
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 65
25 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has L Stern been climbing?










Contributions


All 187 | Routes 11 | Areas 2 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts 11 | Stars 86 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Physical Graffiti (5.11+)
By: L Stern When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic! The traverse is interesting and sustained, and the crux through the bulge is quite powerful. Somewhat of a reach to make the 2nd clip - I brought my extendo cheater draw, so perhaps it wasn't that bad to make one extra move to clip. Thanks for the route, guys!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Old Sparky (5.12a)
By: L Stern When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic voyage up the heart of the Sparks Wall! Powerful fingers for the first 40 feet gives way to some easier terrain, then difficult thin hands through tiered roofs, and finally classic hands in a fantastic position.

I was happy with the following rack: 1 blue Metolius, 3-4 yellow Aliens, 3 x .4 camalots, 2 red Aliens, 3 x .5 camalots, 1 x .75 camalot, 5-7 x #1 camalots, 2 x 2.5 friends, 4-5 x #2 camalots, 1 x #3 camalot


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Ninja Bedwetter (5.11+)
By: L Stern When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Save a few blue Metolius TCUs for the very top (or similar size). I used 4 up there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sparks Wall : Jupiter Crack (5.11)
By: L Stern When: Mar 30, 2015

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Comments: Loved this climb! Excellent, especially if you're looking for something unique and wild.

A healthy rack is: 2 x #2 camalots, 2-3 x #3 camalots, 1 x #4 (new) 1 x #4 (old), 2 x #5 (I used new camalots, but old would probably work also), 1 x #6. It was nice to have a 48 inch runner and several slings. I did not find anywhere to place a #1 camalot. DO IT!!!


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry
By: L Stern When: Dec 16, 2014

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Comments: I left a purple/blue wool knitted beanie up there on Saturday Dec. 13. If anyone finds it, will you contact me? Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Untouchables (5.12c)
By: L Stern When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: I've only done P2, coming in from Apple Strudel. Thought it was excellent, good amount of excitement, until the last bolt. I ended up going straight right into a left-facing corner, which is NOT the correct way to go. After rapping the route, I'd suggest going straight up. Looked like you could place a medium-large nut about 8 feet above the last bolt and continue to the tree anchor. I'd give P2 a PG-13 rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Apple Strudel (5.12a)
By: L Stern When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Thanks, Matt and Greg, for replacing/reusing the bolts on this route. Much appreciated.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Wide Country (5.11a R)
By: L Stern When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: After the crux at the bolt, you can place a finger-sized piece or nut in a crack near the Bastille Crack attached with a double-length runner.

Save a 0.75, red Alien, and yellow Alien for the top.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0) : Photo
By: L Stern When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Oh my gosh! You're right!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ddong Chim! (5.11-)
By: L Stern When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: Steve, too many good routes in the Tan Corridor for that untie/retie stuff!


Location: International : Europe : Sweden : Bohuslan : Galgeberget : ... : Masken (5.11c)
By: L Stern When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: 3-4 cams in the .4 camalot/grey alien range are nice for the finger crack. Fantastic climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Cowboy (5.12a/b)
By: L Stern When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Really interesting and fun route - each crux was very different from the next. The middle one can be done rather bizarrely, which I quite enjoyed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Sacred Ground (5.12b)
By: L Stern When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Agree with all the above comments... stellar, especially P1. On P1, the blue Metolius TCU size was money. I had 3 and would have placed 4 had I had it. I'd add a very optional purple C3 for P3.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Right Wall : Resurrection (5.11+)
By: L Stern When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Wow! My favorite pitch at The Waterfall thus far. Vision quest for me for sure, and I agree, felt as though I'd climbed three or four pitches by the anchor. I didn't use anything larger than a red #1 Camalot.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Double Helix (5.11+)
By: L Stern When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Totally killer route! Quality rock and movement bottom to top. I used a #4 C4 up higher, and think that either the old 3.5 or 4 BD Camalot would work just fine.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Resurrection (5.10d)
By: L Stern When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a pretty fun and exciting route and especially easy to access after you've done the main events at the Bishop.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Everpresent Lane (5.10d)
By: L Stern When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: I was happy to have a blue and black Alien (or similar size) for the top.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Craftwork (5.11c)
By: L Stern When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: This pitch is absolutely classic! Many runners and finger-sized pieces were helpful. A helmet under the roof is not!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: L Stern When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: You can place a bomber #5 Camalot in excellent rock for the OW/chimney bit. It was the best piece I got in there. I don't think any other big gear is necessary.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Reality Check (5.12)
By: L Stern When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Excellent. A good #0.75 Camalot seems to fit quite well about 10 feet up if you want to avoid stick clipping the first bolt. Also, if this climb is at your limit, I'd recommend hanging the draws by climbing "Around the Corner."


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Undertow (5.10+)
By: L Stern When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This is a very worthy climb, especially once you've climbed the classics at Thunder. We did the bolted start, which is a nice option if you didn't bring the larger gear. I thought the crux of the route was placing the gear as you work left to right across the undercling flake. You get good gear, it's just a bit strenuous and awkward to place, so no reason not to get on it. Gear recommendation: 2 x green Alien size to #1, 1 x #2.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: L Stern When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This route is fun!! Steep and solid rock with good holds, goes mostly on gear. I got an extra large nut and 0.75 Camalot right next to each other for my first pieces before the bolt.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: L Stern When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Pitch for pitch, I thought Myopia was more sustained than Fine Line and the Direct Beckey. My favorite of the three (except the belay ledges weren't nearly as cushy as the other two routes).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Young, Blonde, and Easy (5.11b PG13)
By: L Stern When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: This is a badass climb! It protects quite well once you make it past the initial entry moves and get a few good RPs placed.

The initial climbing to the first pin is easy. Before clipping the first pin, I plugged a #0.75 Camalot deep into the hollow flake on the right. You can either backclean the .75 or not, depending on your faith in the flake's strength. I would also recommend putting a screamer on that first pin if you have one. From here, make one mid-5.10 move past the 1st pin... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: L Stern When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments:
Standard Black Wall rap station as seen from the r...
Standard Black Wall rap station as seen from the rim.



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