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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Creekafixion (5.11)
By: lisastern513 When: Apr 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic position! You're a couple hundred feet above Clear Creek tip-toeing on the lip of a very large roof. I thought the bolts were well placed, and so I never felt scared (which I usually do on hard traverses).
I'd recommed bringing a couple of shoulder length slings for the slab to minimize rope drag. Also, there's a large, loose boulder at the very top of the slab that's right in the climbing line. If you're not careful, you could pull this mini-fridge sized block right onto yourse... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: lisastern513 When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd recommend bringing one (maybe 2) black Aliens if you've got 'em. Not required though.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a/b)
By: lisastern513 When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Parental Guidance (5.10 R)
By: lisastern513 When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a really good route that seemed more like PG-13 once you clip the first bolt. Getting up to the first bolt felt 10a-ish and it seemed much easier coming in from the left and avoiding that green Alien placement all together.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Panza Roja (5.11b PG13)
By: lisastern513 When: Jun 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Manny put me on this quality route today - super fun and thank you Manny! Thought provoking, technical climbing on small gear placed in scattered little cracks. It's not a route that you can sew up, but the gear is pretty good and all there if you look. The 2 pitons are right where you want them, and the 2nd one especially helps keep you on route. I completely agree with the rack recommendations in the description of this route. Get on this one, it's late bloomer, but a gem.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10a PG13)
By: lisastern513 When: Jan 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A black Alien (or similarly sized cam) is nice to protect the first crux.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Red Tag (5.11d)
By: lisastern513 When: Dec 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this climb deserves a "heads-up" for the first few moves after clipping the first bolt. You get some okay finger-sized pieces in the flaring right-hand crack. Once you transition to the left-hand crack, pro is bomber to the top.
For gear, the biggest piece I used was a #0.75 Camalot. I'd take doubles up to that and a few sm.-med. nuts. Really good climb!
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Sentry Box (5.12a)
By: lisastern513 When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like a black alien at the crux.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Pipeline (5.10+)
By: lisastern513 When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My husband led this climb. He recommends one 9" Valley Giant with 1-2 optional 6" cams (BD C4 #6), or several 7-8" tube chocks.
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Location: WA : Index Town Walls : Lower Town Wall : Main Wall, left side : Japanese Gardens (5.11+)
By: lisastern513 When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were able to rap from the top of P3 using a 70m rope (one 60m may work too).
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Folly : The Good Book (5.10d)
By: lisastern513 When: Jun 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My husband and I did this route early June 2009. Excellent! Using 2 60m ropes, we rapped from P6 to P4, then to P2 (required some very easy unroped downclimbing on ledge), then to the ground. I'm not sure about the other raps, but for the last one (P2 to ground), a 70m rope won't get you down.
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