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Member Since: Aug 29, 2008
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact L Stern


Point Rank: # 2,228
Total Points: 250
Last Year: 192
Last 30 Days: 20
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has L Stern been climbing?










Contributions


All 147 | Routes 9 | Areas 1 | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 30 | Posts 11 | Stars 63 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Wide Country (5.11a R)
By: L Stern When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: After the crux at the bolt, you can place a finger-sized piece or nut in a crack near the Bastille Crack attached with a double-length runner.

Save a 0.75, red Alien, and yellow Alien for the top.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Sinners On Sunday (5.12- C0) : Photo
By: L Stern When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Oh my gosh! You're right!


Location: CO : South Platte : Staunton State Park : Staunton Rocks : Meadow Dome : ... : Ddong Chim! (5.11-)
By: L Stern When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: Steve, too many good routes in the Tan Corridor for that untie/retie stuff!


Location: International : Europe : Sweden : Bohuslan : Galgeberget : ... : Masken (5.11c)
By: L Stern When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: 3-4 cams in the .4 camalot/grey alien range are nice for the finger crack. Fantastic climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Cowboy (5.12a/b)
By: L Stern When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Really interesting and fun route - each crux was very different from the next. The middle one can be done rather bizarrely, which I quite enjoyed.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Sacred Ground (5.12b)
By: L Stern When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: Agree with all the above comments... stellar, especially P1. On P1, the blue Metolius TCU size was money. I had 3 and would have placed 4 had I had it. I'd add a very optional purple C3 for P3.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Right Wall : Resurrection (5.11+)
By: L Stern When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Wow! My favorite pitch at The Waterfall thus far. Vision quest for me for sure, and I agree, felt as though I'd climbed three or four pitches by the anchor. I didn't use anything larger than a red #1 Camalot.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : The Waterfall : The Double Clutching Wall : Double Helix (5.11+)
By: L Stern When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: Totally killer route! Quality rock and movement bottom to top. I used a #4 C4 up higher, and think that either the old 3.5 or 4 BD Camalot would work just fine.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Resurrection (5.10d)
By: L Stern When: Jan 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a pretty fun and exciting route and especially easy to access after you've done the main events at the Bishop.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Everpresent Lane (5.10d)
By: L Stern When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: I was happy to have a blue and black Alien (or similar size) for the top.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Craftwork (5.11c)
By: L Stern When: Oct 15, 2013

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Comments: This pitch is absolutely classic! Many runners and finger-sized pieces were helpful. A helmet under the roof is not!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: L Stern When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: You can place a bomber #5 Camalot in excellent rock for the OW/chimney bit. It was the best piece I got in there. I don't think any other big gear is necessary.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The For Real Canyon : Reality Check (5.12)
By: L Stern When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Excellent. A good #0.75 Camalot seems to fit quite well about 10 feet up if you want to avoid stick clipping the first bolt. Also, if this climb is at your limit, I'd recommend hanging the draws by climbing "Around the Corner."


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Undertow (5.10+)
By: L Stern When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This is a very worthy climb, especially once you've climbed the classics at Thunder. We did the bolted start, which is a nice option if you didn't bring the larger gear. I thought the crux of the route was placing the gear as you work left to right across the undercling flake. You get good gear, it's just a bit strenuous and awkward to place, so no reason not to get on it. Gear recommendation: 2 x green Alien size to #1, 1 x #2.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Post Office : Papa's Got a Brand New Crag (5.11)
By: L Stern When: Sep 27, 2013

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Comments: This route is fun!! Steep and solid rock with good holds, goes mostly on gear. I got an extra large nut and 0.75 Camalot right next to each other for my first pieces before the bolt.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Myopia (5.11a)
By: L Stern When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Pitch for pitch, I thought Myopia was more sustained than Fine Line and the Direct Beckey. My favorite of the three (except the belay ledges weren't nearly as cushy as the other two routes).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Young, Blonde, and Easy (5.11b PG13)
By: L Stern When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: This is a badass climb! It protects quite well once you make it past the initial entry moves and get a few good RPs placed.

The initial climbing to the first pin is easy. Before clipping the first pin, I plugged a #0.75 Camalot deep into the hollow flake on the right. You can either backclean the .75 or not, depending on your faith in the flake's strength. I would also recommend putting a screamer on that first pin if you have one. From here, make one mid-5.10 move past the 1st pin... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall
By: L Stern When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments:
Standard Black Wall rap station as seen from the rim.
Standard Black Wall rap station as seen from the rim.



Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Euroboy (5.10)
By: L Stern When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: This thing was awesome! I used a #4.5 rather than a #4, but otherwise right on with rack beta. Do it!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Creekafixion (5.11)
By: L Stern When: Apr 30, 2013

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Comments: Fantastic position! You're a couple hundred feet above Clear Creek tip-toeing on the lip of a very large roof. I thought the bolts were well placed, and so I never felt scared (which I usually do on hard traverses).

I'd recommed bringing a couple of shoulder length slings for the slab to minimize rope drag. Also, there's a large, loose boulder at the very top of the slab that's right in the climbing line. If you're not careful, you could pull this mini-fridge sized block right onto yourse... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Rasmussen Crack (5.10b)
By: L Stern When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: I'd recommend bringing one (maybe 2) black Aliens if you've got 'em. Not required though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a/b)
By: L Stern When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: Easy to toprope without drag if you attach double length slings to the Whimsical anchor and drape them back over the route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Parental Guidance (5.12a R)
By: L Stern When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: This was a really good route that seemed more like PG-13 once you clip the first bolt. Getting up to the first bolt felt 10a-ish and it seemed much easier coming in from the left and avoiding that green Alien placement all together.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Panza Roja (5.11b PG13)
By: L Stern When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Manny put me on this quality route today - super fun and thank you Manny! Thought provoking, technical climbing on small gear placed in scattered little cracks. It's not a route that you can sew up, but the gear is pretty good and all there if you look. The 2 pitons are right where you want them, and the 2nd one especially helps keep you on route. I completely agree with the rack recommendations in the description of this route. Get on this one, it's late bloomer, but a gem.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Air Mail (5.10a PG13)
By: L Stern When: Jan 30, 2011

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Comments: A black Alien (or similarly sized cam) is nice to protect the first crux.


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