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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich named this after the Warren Zevon song of which he was very fond- I remember him playing that over and over as we drove west one fall on our way to Arapiles. A multi-thousand mile medley of Warren Zevon, Green on Red, and fIREHOSE cassettes playing in his Toyota track.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Chequers Buttress (5.10a)
By: Leo Hski When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: E1 5b back in the day FWIW. We spent a very warm 1982 Spring Bank Holiday weekend at Froggatt- climbing all day, pints in the Chequers, and then sleeping out right below the crag. Great memories!
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : The Knock (5.11d R)
By: Leo Hski When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks more dangerous for the spotter!
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Location: bob bickford : friends and family : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Dec 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where is this? Stone looks like Arapiles.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Return of the Chucklehead's (5.9)
By: Leo Hski When: Oct 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark- don't go downgrading our already modest achievements.
Mark and I did this after an aborted road trip out west. I had pulled a finger tendon and Mark had rolled an ankle so we retreated to the familiar comforts of Wisconsin.
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Location: NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mount Washington : King Ravine (Mt. Adams) : Great Gully (WI2 Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Jan 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this line get skiied?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area : ... : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Sep 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good god- Bill Lenz belaying!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Donkey On My Mind (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Aug 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn! That's a good-looking piece of stone.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : River side of Main Massif o... : Aswan Dam Crack (5.9+)
By: Leo Hski When: May 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I appreciate the credit for FA but who really knows? When Sangdahl first took me there in '83 or so the obvious big lines like Y Crack been done by my DLFA brothers and others that went before. Wenzel and I spent quite a few weekends searching out the remaining interesting lines, many of which turned out to be pretty easy, and some of which turned out to be nice climbing. I always assumed that anything easier that 5.10 or .11 might well have seen earlier ascents. We were climbing for ourselv... more >>
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Location: IL : Starvard Rock State Park : The Virgin (WI5)
By: Leo Hski When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think Tom Coleman did this in the 80's- it didn't quite touch the ground so there was some rock move or two to start then transition onto the ice.
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Location: IL : Starvard Rock State Park
By: Leo Hski When: Apr 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most scared I've ever been- following the closed trail that ran along then up the riverside bluff. "Closed? Hah- we're experience mountaineers!" I can remember sketchy mantel upon sketchy mantel on icy, snow covered, rounded sandstone bulges WAY above the river with ice floes banging ominously on the dam gates below. Of course we wouldn't rope up on what had been a summer hiking trail. Of course we were way off route in the snow.
Second coldest I've ever been- Starved Rock soloin... more >>
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : River side of Main Massif o... : Aswan Dam Crack (5.9+)
By: Leo Hski When: Dec 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We called this Aswan Dam Crack way back in the dark ages. No bolts back then.
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Air Spire : Return of the Chucklehead's (5.9)
By: Leo Hski When: Dec 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led in the mid 80's if not earlier. We brushed about 800 pounds of leaves and pine needles off this.
Good climbing.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : American Dream Roof (5.10d)
By: Leo Hski When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is the cover (front and back) of the Extremist's Guide.
Beta: Plug in bomber gear. Grab big holds. Pull down.
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Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Detox Mountain (5.12a)
By: Leo Hski When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Rich Bechler. Warren Zevon song.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District
By: Leo Hski When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To each his own Paul. You're in the minority on this one.
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : The Peak District : ... : Chequers Buttress (5.10a)
By: Leo Hski When: Mar 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this when it was E1- one of my first, so I'll still regard it as such!
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Location: George Bell : Random pix : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, resurfacing is the way to go. My hip x-ray looked just like yours- much better now with a Birmingham resurfacing.
Leo
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "other ancient axe" is a Pterodactyl, invented in the mid '70s to be swung in the narrow confines of Scottish gullies. Commonly known as a "terror" at the time. It was incredibly better than most other tools of the time, when Chouinard was writing books about how the gentle curve of his picks mimicked the natural arc of an axe swing and educating us all in the French terms for various cramponing techniques. No disrespect to Yvon- it's just a very intererest contrast in styles between the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-) : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Mar 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo could have been a cover shot in the glory days of Mountain magazine.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Three Birches (5.8+) : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Jan 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny- I fell off that same spot even though I was leading much harder routes at the time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Jan 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny you should mention that- I saw that guy that at Seneca- probably 1984 or so- right after he got back down to the ground. Both top front teeth missing. He was, strangely, somewhat proud of his new look! Is this the one you're thinking about or has it happened again?
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Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : England : Northumberland : Bowden Doors
By: Leo Hski When: Jan 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climbing and the company at Bowden Doors provided the single most memorable day of climbing I've had. Cheers to Neil Foster, Tim Barnes, and the Siddiqui brothers.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : Pilot Error Cliffs : Photo
By: Leo Hski When: Jan 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The big flake he's hanging from was creaky in 1986-7- wonder if it's still there.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Angle of the Dangle (5.12a)
By: Leo Hski When: Jan 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA Ralph Schmitt I believe.
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