Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact LeeAB

Point Rank: # 29
Total Points: 10,774
Last Year: 645
Last 30 Days: 0
249 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has LeeAB been climbing?










Contributions


All 3596 | Routes 496 | Areas 154 | Photos 602 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 485 | Posts 336 | Stars 1309 | Ratings 211
Page 7 of 20.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Finding belays should not be a problem so long as there are people around. Being able to use other people ropes is a whole different issue. If I'm headed somewhere without a partner and looking to get belayed I would take my own rope, and again before asking anyone to belay you watch them belay and decide if you think what they are doing is acceptable or not, there are lots of scary belay habits out there and even more so internationally.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Rose Bud Wall : Big Medicine (5.11c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Though I'd done this route several years before, this past weekend it took me as many tries to do this as Kootenai Crusier...UGH it is kind of hard and in your face at the top and different than your usual Sitting Bull fare.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Rose Bud Wall : Firewater (5.10b) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: How an you sleep with your self calling Kate "someone".


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: LeeAB When: Oct 4, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Were there this past weekend (first weekend of October) and each day someone in our party got stung. We were several routes right of where the hive is. I was on the first 5.11 that starts off the rocks on the right side of the wall when I got stung and did not hear or see the bee until it stung me. The other person was on the center of the 3 routes that climb from the flat base area. Both times the attacks came 1/2 way up the route or higher and with little warning.


Location: TX : Camp Eagle : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely looks a bit odd, like begging for sever rope drag. There is another bolt in the top left of the frame so I doubt it is the anchor.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon
By: LeeAB When: Sep 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: You can find sun or shade which ever you need so it should be fine.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Mas Cerveza (5.11b/c R)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 10, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: For me, the move off the 2 finger and crimp moving past the second bolt seems tweaky for the grade.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Sugar (5.10d)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 10, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I don't recall anything looking drilled on this route, but I probably was not looking for it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Big Horn Wall : Ghost Dancers (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: From what I saw this weekend it could easily be bouldered. Someone was dropped from the pocket section going between the 3rd and 4th bolts and landed on the nice flat area just infront of the boulders that make nice benches. Just don't blow it any higher.

PS The climber seemed fine afterwards and took a couple of burns on Broken Arrow.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Big Horn Wall : Custer's Last Stand (5.13b) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe it felt low percentage because there is a different way to do it.....Talk to me DTP I'll let you in on it.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls : Big Horn Wall : Broken Arrows (5.12d)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Found better beta for the crux, hint: don't use the broken pocket...

The crux is longer though than the other 5.12+'s on the wall.


Location: CO : Durango : Cascade Canyon : Free Tibet Sector : Tibet ArĂȘte (originally su... (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 25, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I did not have a stick clip when I did this and was wishing that I did.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Thunderbird (5.12-)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe you could start on Little Yellow Jacket and go to the 2 bolt anchor below the crux then do that pitch, call it Little...bird Jacket, sine you end up doing the last pitch of LYJ.

I was up there in Saturday so I missed the para glider action you are talking about, though it would have been interesting to watch, I guess.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Thunderbird (5.12-)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 23, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The belay at the top of the 2nd pitch is more up and left on a left trending ramp.

I agree that some of the anchors could be supplemented and would be more than willing to do the work.

Did a nice link up between this and Little Yellow Jacket, call it Thunder...Jacket. Climb Thunderbird to the anchor just below the crux pitch then traverse about 10' right into the spectacular 4th pitch of LYJ. You could also link up after the bolt on the third pitch into the pin on the third pitch of LYJ, since... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : White Wall : The Power of One (5.13d)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 20, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: If the bolts are bad, do the community service thing and replace them before starting to work the thing. Yeah it might suck but if it needs to be done, it needs to be done. You could try to get the FA to do it or at least come up with the bolts but that seems unlikely.

Mono, isn't it usually the case that a chipped route is built to suit? Not that I would do it but if you are going to spend the time beating the rock down wouldn't you make moves that were fun for you? which usually means moves t... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : WatchTower : Alchemy (5.11a)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Did this again today and it might be easier than .11-, might be .10+.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Hidden Wall : Good to the Last Drop (5.9+)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Jason, there is a also a very striking corner up and left of the route in the area of the second to third pitch that ends in a roof, one side of the corner was orange..I think.

Good to the Last Drop...or Leaves a Good Taste in Your Mouth. The first few pitches of this route were fine, they had their good and bad moments but it is really up higher where the route gets good. The belay at the top of pitch 5 is like a park bench and a great place to take a quick break and eat something (hand size g... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Splinted and Screwed (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 14, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch is 3 stars, second pitch is 4 and the third is probably only 2.

Now you can get a pretty nice pretty full day of climbing by doing both routes on the wall.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Gangland (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 25, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: To get to the Loose Cannon anchors, you would clip a bolts about 4 feet to the right of the last bolt on gangland and then the last bolt on Loose Cannon. Depending on how you do the traverse makes the whole route feel different, you can traverse at the level of the connecting bolt or with the connecting bolt down by your feet when you are in the underclings that you could clip the Gangland anchors from which would allow a great rest just before taking on the final crux of Loose Cannon.

  • NOTE...
 more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall
By: LeeAB When: Jul 18, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: As of July 17th, the trail around to the raps for Trundle wall is terribly over grown. The cairns are still there for the most part but you will want to take something to deal with the encroaching brush.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Flotsam & Jetsam (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 22, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the route maintenance Eric.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Stroke Me (5.12a) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Jun 16, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like you are right. Moved


Location: CO : Durango : Turtle Lake : Bouldering : Big East Block : Bird Hole Right (V3)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: The long move to the so called "jug" has either very low, very high or very bad feet and the jug is more of a shelf that is sloping to flat depending on where you hit it.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11c/d)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Hey JAlbers, AOSR (and everyone else)

Your opinion is just as valid as anyone's. Grades are really just a suggestion and the community tries to come to a consensus as best as possible and there will always be outliers on either end of the average.

For my part, because of reasons you (JAlbers) stated, ie: no hard moves but the hardest at the top or bottom, I think Crack Attack is harder than Bolting Barbie. I will however not get into putting a number on either. Needless to say though, if I wan... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Park : East Side : Monolith : Lardbutt (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: Sorry Adam.


Page 7 of 20.  <<First   <Prev   5  6  7  8  9   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!