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Location: Trip Reports : Max Jones and Mark Hudon on... : Post : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Jan 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is going on with your right shoulder???
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave : Soul Crusher (5.13b) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rest on Dope is pretty obvious down below him as is the rest on Leper/Soul Crusher to his right. Not to mention the color coded quick draws...
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kate has to put up with the VSC...a "creation" of Fiona's (Dave Pegg's other half).
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : The Vestibule : Grand Ol' Opry (5.14c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice one, Mark. Was Logan up there with you?
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You mean, like 5.10d...
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : Pinche Wey (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Which is of course what V7 would be closest to, though if it is v5, .12c would be better.
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch
By: LeeAB When: Oct 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jay, I believe that Prototype, House of Pain, Crankenstien etc. face either west or slightly NW and catch afternoon sun. Dead Cats, T-roofic, Tit for Tom face more West or SW and catch sun earlier. Sex Canyon and Cave face south though their steep nature provides shade in the summer, the Canyon probably gets sun in winter while the Cave probably does not. There are also a few routes across the canyon that face north and would not catch sun.
As far as temperatures go it has never been TOO cold f... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower
By: LeeAB When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: So when are you going to post up the route beta, W?
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Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : El Beerto (5.11c)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a chain draw on the last bolt to facilitate cleaning.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower
By: LeeAB When: Sep 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: These routes might be the product of Wpenner? I recall being told about a few routes down that way by him or Arron Chavez, the white mexican, and yes I believe they were all supposed to be 5.11 and 5.12
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Bush Shark Area : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember the start of the second pitch seeming pretty difficult for 5.9 for the first 10-15 feet.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or 5.10D's
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork
By: LeeAB When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is interesting since it was not there over Labor Day weekend.
Wonder what changed their minds?
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Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Insect Wall (including Bloc... : Block Party (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks!
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Mainliner (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Repeated by Cody Roth, Summer 2011. Second hand quote, "5.14a, though I've done 5.14b's that are easier".
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Clandestine Wall : Thunderstruck (5.13a/b)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: When Eric followed it was right about the same time he did Mushroom Roof in Hueco, though that had taken him a bit more effort than this took him. My memory was that he hung once and then climbed through the crux, though his memory could be correct as well. So we figured if V8 was the hardest he'd climbed that something he could do first or second try was going to be a bit easier.
I will fully admit to really having no idea how hard this was at the time and 5.12+ was kind of a grade I threw ou... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Ponderosa Bouldering : The Satellite : Pinball Simulator Area : Left Pinball Simulator (V9-10)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom, differences in opinion of grade are pretty easy to trace on this one. You are a skinny bastard with stupid strong fingers, while I'm a fat a$$ with lots of finger problems and have a hard time crimping anything...I have heard others call it V8 as well, but for me it took longer than anything else I've done in Ponderosa except Mario Andretti.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Over the Moon (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of July 5th 2011 there was a wasp nest being built in the threader pocket just above the no hands rest on the stalactite.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Mr. Greenwood (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a beautiful line with interesting and difficult movement.
It is too bad that you can reach the routes on either side of it through all but one short section in the middle. Kind of squeezed on a beautiful panel that is just slightly too small to really fit a route.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Poser's Lonely Reunion (5.10d)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite reachy once you leave the cave.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Rooster Booster (5.10a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perfectly safe with a 60m, we had a few meters left.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : Moon Hill
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of right now, the toll booth does not exist, but you will notice a large arch over the road shortly before you get to Moon Hill which will be the entrance to the "park". When this actually happens is still unknown. Turning the area into a "park" would really be depressing since the Chinese definition of "park" includes amusement rides and fee's to do everything.
Also, Yangshuo Access Initiative is a dead group at this point.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Luna Nascente (first pitch) (5.10b)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beware the tough and awkward move to the first bolt and past it as well. Also a the third bolt is pretty far above the second which is clipped from a ledge.
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Location: International : Asia : China : Guangxi Province : YangShuo : ... : Artemis (5.11a)
By: LeeAB When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of July 5th 2011, there was a good sized loose block at the little roof that is passed on the right end about half way up.
Also a wasp nest just being built slightly above the roof in a large underclinging pocket.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : The Needle : Southwest Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: LeeAB When: May 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: CaseyE, the Sandias are definitely not Yosemite, but then again where else is?
Classic for length, feature and history. You will hit some bad or questionable rock on almost anything longer than a single pitch. As others have said though this can be minimized by getting on generally harder routes that climb cleaner rock. Remember that the old classics follow weaknesses in the rock while the newer routes tend to climb the best looking rock that seems climbable.
You almost have to suffer through ... more >>
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