Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Pinnacles National Monument : Monolith : Subterranean Tango (5.10a R)
By: LeeAB When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Starts by stepping to the right off of the main platform that most of the routes start off of. This route is the second to the right of POD and immediately right of Hawaiian Noises.
I did the pit start years ago and don't remember it but it does appear to have Leper hangers.
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Pinnacles National Monument : Monolith : Hawaiian Noises (5.10d PG13)
By: LeeAB When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This route really only had 4 bolts on it and the first is extremely high, a fall would be really ugly. You can start on POD (indirect traverse) and clip that first bolt. At the top another long run-out leads to the top. Again it is possible to bail over to POD and clip it's last bolt if you care to.
Of course this might not really be the route Hawaiian Noises anymore if you clip two bolts on another route, probably still a good outing though.
|
Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Pinnacles National Monument : Monolith : Foreplay (5.11b)
By: LeeAB When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: More technical and interesting climbing than POD but also with hollower rock at the top.
Has anyone taken a no hands at the 5th bolt in the scoop? Possibly facing out straddling the knob.
|
Location: International : Spain : Catalonia : Saderrnas
By: LeeAB When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael, this is organized geographically. In the same way that the US is organized, Catalonia is the state or province that Saderrnas is in, while the Pyrenees is like saying something is in the Mid-west, which is also geographical in a different way.
|
Location: General Climbing : Questionable Belay Techniqu... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just for the record the guy in the back has worse belay technique than the guy in the front. The guy in the back is holding the gri gri open with no brake hand on, while the guy in the front is just not holding the break end so at least the gri gri can try to catch.
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael, I believe it is barefoot soloing. . . . .without chalk :)
At the creek I'm not real psyced with anything smaller than a green alien or blue TCU though I've seen a blue alien hold a fall in a poor placement, so I can understand the desire to double up at hard spots.
|
Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : North Mountain : The Big Time : See Spot Run (V6 PG13) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I dont't think it is a pinch variation. While there might be other ways to do any given problem. In this photo the climber has their left hand on the hold that their right will end up on, perhapse using it as an intermediate to bump to the next hold which can be crimped or held as a pinch.
Actually I'm not even sure that the climbers left hand is on anything in this shot, but in motion.
|
Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Michael, the way I interpreted Mono's statement about "tough guys" is that it is easy to talk sh*t about some photo with out having actually been on a route, they have no idea what the gear is like and untill they sack up and try it that is all it is is spray. Well you did sack up and I notice with out any of the previous spray, congradulations! and good job. Thanks for reporting back as well to say how it went.
You state in your TR that you never felt in danger of a bad fall, though looking a... more >>
|
Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: LeeAB When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Depending on the weather Datil could be good, though you will want to climb in the sun for sure. Remember that Datil is somewhere around 8,000 feet, but if the sun is out and the wind is calm.
I know people who have climbed at the tower in December but it is more of a local thing since you can just go when the weather allows. You would definitely be taking a chance with a road trip in November. Also most routes only receive afternoon sun, so unless you are wanting to get on the two routes on th... more >>
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Orange Juice (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: YES, truely one of the great lines anywhere. If you climb 5.12 you should not just do this route if you are at the Red, you should plan a trip to the Red to do it!!!
I recall the first bit being quite difficult then pretty cruiser till the crux which involves a lot of chalk on the rock and not much to hold in that chalk. Based on what Mono says it has gotten a lot more popular since I did it in 2001, at the time my girlfriend (now wife) and I were the only ones at the cliff all day, it was actu... more >>
|
Location: AL : Horse Pens 40 : God Module (V11+) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that this looks nothing like God Module.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just talked to Randy tonight, he gives his blessing, sorry it took me so long to get a hold of him but I've been out of town/country for a couple of months.
Go ahead and add a bolt to make a lower anchor.
OH and I believe it is Isler, no E.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side
By: LeeAB When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mono forgot to mention the unique "pocket" band that many of the routes pass through where bowling ball grips can be found, very cool. The rock here is sharp though, many of the holds have crisp lips that help you stay on but can punish you for poor technique or desperate movement. Also I would call the wall more 30 degrees overhung, still quite steep, maybe a little steeper than the Undertow wall at The Load but not as steep as the Madness Cave or Twinkie.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : American Dream (5.12b)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I preclipped the second, make a long reach up to clip the first then clip yourself into the first with another draw, attaching to the top biner on the draw on the wall and you should be able to reach up and clip the second draw without too much trouble, unless you are height impaired. Even having to pull off the ledge to clip the first could prove spooky to some.
|
Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Dark Side : Shanghai (5.12d)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found that when you first arrive at the anchors it is strenuous to clip but if you move a bit further you wil be rewarded.
|
Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : The Thing (5.13-)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brett, I don't think anyone is suggesting that you can or can't use the arete. As far as I'm concerned I'm just relating my experience on the route. I would agree that if you can reach the bolt line, or even move off of it and back onto it then you should feel free to use it, climbing is about enjoying yourself and freedom.
|
Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Mai Tai Wall
By: LeeAB When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are also a couple of harder routes at the right end of the wall where it is a bit taller, just before Insect Wall. For reference, the "TREE" behind Tree Route 5.9 is no longer there, I don't know if it fell, partially fell or was cut down for fear of it falling on someone walking on the trail below. At this point it is a nice pile of big logs on the river side of the trail right in front of the ledge that Tree Route starts off of.
|
Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon : No Recess (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Because of the issue with the bolts, the sharpness of the holds and the hollow nature of some of them it is possible that this route is deserving of the coveted bomb, but the movement is at least decent.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : The Mercy Seat (5.13a)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Significantly fewer moves than Apollo Reed but with 2 sections that are harder than anything on Apollo in each corner.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : The Colosseum : Pod (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are bolts on an extension and a newer right finish, I don't know if either has been red-pointed.
The climbing out of the POD is pretty continuous on flat edges. The upper boulder problem is not that bad, the holds are all pretty big, just longer pulls on a steeper section of rock, also I only did 3 moves to clip the chains, not 5.
Very fun, perfect stone and cool varied movement.
|
Location: WV : New River Gorge : Summersville Lake : Narcissus Cave : Narcissus (5.12a)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of now, there are only 5 bolts on the route, the only one I noticed missing was the 1st, so beware. The 3rd clip, a bad place to fall seems like it is the one mentioned as being easier to clip from above, I clipped it from small crimps to the right of the bolt. I don't know if this will change or not or if it is intentional.
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : Top Flite (5.12)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had the pleasure of doing an early ascent of this route with John Kear in September or October of 2006, even at that point it was quite clean, maybe a little lichen here and there but very little loose rock.
- The only really spooky bit was at the start of the third pitch where you are following a flake up and right that gets progressively thinner and more hollow before you take off up the face or get good gear.
- If you do the rap approach, which we did, it seemed advisable to clip into a fe...
more >>
|
Location: International : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : Mascun : ... : El Corredor de los Muertos (5.13b)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 3 anchors on this route are for a 60m, 70m and 80m rope respectively. Stop and re-thread as needed when lowering, probably doing so twice if you have a 60m.
|
Location: International : Spain
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Keep in mind when planning a trip to Spain, that the national holiday usually runs from about mid August to mid September. This is a pretty tough time to be there as everyone is out and many places are very busy, to the point of not being able to find a place to stay and other businesses being completely closed.
Another thing to remember is that most places close during the middle of the day, they open from about 9am to 1 or 2pm then close and re-open around 5pm and stay open till 8 or 9pm. Thi... more >>
|
Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : The Anvil
By: LeeAB When: Oct 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt, head to Stone Age and check out the "local climbing" binder that we keep, it has Kevin's hand drawn topos of his route which should help significantly for anyone who is wanting to go out there. We can always photo copy any of the info from the binder for anyone who wants.
This is your best bet besides this web site for info on new routes in the Sandias.
|
RSS Feed
