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 ADVANCED
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.


Member Since: Aug 3, 2008
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 26
Total Points: 10,131
Last Year: 116
Last 30 Days: 0
237 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3393 | Routes 463 | Areas 141 | Photos 581 | Page Improvements | Comments 481 | Posts 337 | Stars 1187 | Ratings 203
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : France : Ceuse
By: LeeAB When: Aug 9, 2014

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Comments: One would walk from the gite


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: LeeAB When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: Jake, see Jason's comment two above yours. In addition to Jason I know of at least two other people that have gone this way. You will need to do some research though to figure out where to park and where to hike over the ridge. If I'm not mistaken you will want to head for the side valley that the Renaissance wall is in. Maybe Jason can provide some clarification.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Dec 29, 2013

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Comments: Not to mention an entirely different type of rock.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Water Dog Wall : Chutes and Ladders (V9-10)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Listed as a Bob Murray TR in the Sherman guide. Not sure who bouldered it first or where the official start is.


Location: TX : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Beehive Wall : Hedonistic Urges (5.12c)
By: LeeAB When: Oct 26, 2013

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Comments: See that little green box, just below the route info. Feel free to submit your opinion there.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: As opposed the POOR human behavior, though this is just the result not caught in the act.
Right at a Y junction in the trail leading away from one of the camp spots, maybe 50 feet...nice.
Right at a Y junction in the trail leading away from one of the camp spots, maybe 50 feet...nice.



Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments:
Dylan demonstrates good human behavior.
Dylan demonstrates good human behavior.



Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : POGy WOG (5.11)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: Originally lead on gear and the middle bolt in April 2012, finished in September 2013.....such is LIFE.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Procrastination (5.12a) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: Ben, you can wear a helmet anytime you like.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sleeping Rock aka Sheep's N... : Air Jordan Boulder : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, I have not been back since the burnout. I miss living 45 minutes from here.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Sleeping Rock aka Sheep's N... : Air Jordan Boulder : ... : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Thanks to brian k sohn for the spot all those years ago.


Location: TX : Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall : Butter Side Down (5.11)
By: LeeAB When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: At this time the anchor bolts just have quick-links on them which, if you thread both to clean and lower will horribly kink your rope. It would be nice to get a second link on each bolt, some chain (an odd number of links, 5 or 7) on each or some fixed biners to make using both bolts more reasonable.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Once Upon a Time (5.11c) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: You could always peruse Benjamin's submitted photos and start slandering hit photos of climbers and possibly even himself not wearing helmets, there are plenty.

Alison was working on a new fad at the Dungeon last time I saw her, helmeted tennis shoe ascents...


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Trick or Treat? (aka Captai... (5.10d) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: George, you look so cool I'm getting cold right now.....Thanks, because it was hot today.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mickey's Beach : The Egg : Egghead (5.11b R)
By: LeeAB When: Aug 19, 2013

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Comments: Jim, Thanks for the route maintenance.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: LeeAB When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: unless the fire chased them off I think they are still there, at least as of 2 years ago they were.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 12, 2013

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Comments: I have always linked the last two pitches, though I may have always had a 70m rope.

As far as rapping from the 4th. I've done MM with John K in 3 pitches, I want to say that we took a 70m and had to do a little simu-climbing to link the first 2, just up onto the ledge before you move left to the main line, not sure which pitch this means that you would come up short on though, if it was the 1, i.e.: getting to the ground it probably would not be that big a deal.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Torreon : Mountain Momma (5.10c)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Matthias,
I have always climbed the large left facing dihedral and that is really not that bad, not really sure what is out to the right of that but the rock is reasonably good in the corner and there are ample opportunities for protection.
When in the corner the 5.10 variation is pretty obvious about 20' out to the left on the face going over a small roof. Though I did not like it as much as the corner.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Slot : Global Warming (5.11c)
By: LeeAB When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: The nut at the start that I used and was pretty easy to place was a #7 DMM Off-Set (the smallest aluminum one, gold). Just grab the big left hand jug, put your feet on and stand up, it should slot in about 2/3 of the way up an 8-10" section of crack that you can just reach holding the wire.

On the other hand if it is really a safety issue, and the landing is bad, ....

Additionally, there is a spot on the upper wall where 2 bolts are quite some distance apart, whatever the size alien bigg... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : The Tunnel : Shady Side : Mid-Town
By: LeeAB When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: You should be able to tick or comment on any route that has been submitted to the database. The routes listed under the description are just a list and have not necessarily been submitted. The list of routes to the left are the submitted ones and you should be able to tick and comment on those, (they are also linked to the names in the list and as such are blue while the ones that have not been submitted are still black text).


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : The B.F.G. (5.13)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: Yeah, I figured a letter harder than Goliath


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Old Man and the Sea (ka) (5.13c)
By: LeeAB When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: In reference to the who and when question.

It is my understanding that Bryan Pletta along with Mark Thomas and maybe a few others "discovered" the crag many years ago (15-20?), though they did not develop any routes at the Bat Cave itself they did put up several routes at Gotham City.

Bryan has always maintained a topo of those at Stone Age and mentions the Bat Cave to anyone who asks about potential for development. While Timmy was certainly the one to head down and bolt the cave first, other... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Motherlode : The Madness (5.13c) : Photo
By: LeeAB When: Feb 13, 2013

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Comments: I like that the climber is pretty sharp and the wall is blurred.


Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : The Dark Heart : Taxing the Pipe (V9- PG13)
By: LeeAB When: Feb 11, 2013

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Comments: It is interesting, because I would have said the opposite, that the first 3 move are the hardest and the last three are kind of delicate and keep you on edge but are generally easier. Maybe it was less humid when I did it, either way it is a great problem. I did not notice the wall behind me for the finish but it is still kind of crammed in a corner which detracts a little from the overall aesthetics.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Juan Tabo Canyon : Shield : Knife Edge (Easy 5th)
By: LeeAB When: Jan 23, 2013

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Comments: It is likely that the route will be clear or that you will be able to climb around any snow on route with out too much difficulty. The real issue is that if you plan on going to the crest and taking the tram back down, there will be snow up there in the trees. As far as coming back down along the "approach" to the routes on the main wall, it seems as though part of that is tree covered as well before the rappels. It is hard to know though what things will be like in March at this point. The fore... more >>


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