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Location: NH : Rumney : Darth Vader : Oby-won Ryobi (5.9+) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah i hang on a straight left arm and straight right leg and clip with the right hand... pretty relaxing but this looks way more exciting and seems like it ended well so no harm done :)
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Kalbro (V2-3)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: eric- i too loved this line and though i wish i had more pads and a few spotters i did fall from the top out (way harder than i thought it would be... hard for v3 IMO) and i fell on to the pad i had sitting on the rock below and stumbled back a little but i was fine... i must admit i was surprised that i didnt shatter a leg or anything but it was cool to take the fall that i had dreaded so much... i was still nervous enough that i made sure i figured out better beta and didnt fall from it again ... more >>
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rumor Has It (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got some FA info... Matt Keefe did the FA in 2002, Tim Derohen did it in 2003, and it may have seen another... A name never stuck to it so this name will stand for now... Both of them thought 5.12d sounded right...
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Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Primitive Times (5.8)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: so many routes would be cleaner if people ventured beyond the close crags... and brought a little gear...
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Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : Approaching Armageddon (5.8+)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: good to know i will fix that
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Location: NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands...
By: lee hansche When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I replaced the rope up the gully today the old one was rotting through...
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rumor Has It (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks much, it is interesting.. but if folks want it bolted ill throw a few in there... what do the people say?
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Rumor Has It (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A note on the grade and the name:
Rumor has it that this route was done a while back but not really reported so that seems like a good name unless another one comes from the FAist.
Rumor also says that he called it hard 5.12. i felt it was a v7 boulder problem followed by 5.8 which would sound like 13a... it is just tough to rate routes like this so im calling it 12d for now and hope others climb it and come up with a consensus...
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Short and sharp (5.10c)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I replaced the anchor today with some links and fixed biners. oh and i managed to climb it. Hard for the grade and not very nice movement at the bottom. the top was fine, but sharp.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Summit Cliff (The Highlands... : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: very few routes up there see any traffic... ive done most of them this season and they all have a little filth on them (or a lot) but are still worth it... this route doesnt have a convenient start even by summit standards so i have a hard time finding a partner for it, i hope to do it one of these days...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: they are fine... there are steeper 10s with even cleaner falls but this is a great route to break in to the grade...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: oh, and i do skip the clip til after the bulge, i am tall and i am strong on crimps (though admittedly weak when it comes to campus moves which is the kind of power i think you need to make the route feel 5.12), i think it is fully 13a...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : The Vaporizer (5.12a) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: such a great route! and a nice photo :)
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Big Kahuna (5.13a)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: i used the beta jay passed down to me for a long time with no luck (though it is very good beta)... i then switched to the "short person" beta with the high right foot even though i am 6'2" this worked better for me... so try it a few ways before you settle on your beta...
fun fact: I put in twice the number of tries on this than i have on any other route even though the grade suggests that its not my hardest send (it was)... it might be short but it is HARD!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Upper Darth Vadar : Victim of Love (5.8)
By: lee hansche When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: i havent been on it in a couple years any one else have recent experience on this thing? the only route ive done up there this year was Danger 5.10a X and that seemed safer than this description haha...
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Oct 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks :)
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Location: NH : Waterville Valley
By: lee hansche When: Oct 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bradley, in all honesty i don't understand what you mean here... did your entry get changed? i am listed as the submitter but i didn't write it and i don't know how that happened... if you can tell me simply what the problem is perhaps i can help fix it...
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc
By: lee hansche When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah numbers makes sense... good call... i took care of it
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc
By: lee hansche When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks dude :)
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Location: NH : Rumney : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Sep 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: what! mike spid all up in this site... I love it!
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Abrakadabra (5.11b)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun, pumpy climbing! it gave me just enough to keep moving up and a well needed shake out just before the awkward mantle...
according to the new guide this route is just one pitch but there are a few options to keep on climbing from here :)
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc
By: lee hansche When: Sep 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: im with mark on this, i'd trust your line up... just type it up as a neat list
1
2
3
4
5
etc
and id be happy to fix it up then delete out discussion here
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Location: NH : Rumney : The G-Spot : Bumpin the Gate (5.7)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 40-50 feet
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: little video of the climb :) nothing fancy
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Urban Surfer (5.13d)
By: lee hansche When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: thanks mark! it was quite an intense process and a fantastic climb... yeah, i could imagine the reach being a bitch for shorter climbers...
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