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me and the sentinel....


Member Since: Jan 10, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact lee hansche

Point Rank: # 8
Total Points: 18,978
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Last 30 Days: 140
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has lee hansche been climbing?










Contributions


All 5707 | Routes 641 | Areas 93 | Photos 1930 | Page Improvements | Comments 1523 | Posts 152 | Stars 1295 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Granny's Route (5.4) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: 4 days ago

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Comments: new name "Grampy's Route"? haha


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Angry Inch (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: I HAVE CORRECTED THE NAME OF THE ROUTE... I HAVE BEEN TOLD BY MULTILPE PEOPLE THAT IT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE ANGRY INCH WHICH MAKE SENSE IF YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH CERTAIN MUSICALS...


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Angry Inch (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks man!
And yeah, the beta will make more sense once All the holds are fresh in your mind...
It is hyper-technical...


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Angry Inch (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: The moment many (ok, a few) have been waiting for! I sent this thing :)
My vote is in the 12c range (if you are 6' tall ish) Harder if short for sure...

SPOILER ALERT! RIDICULOUS MICRO BETA!
From the rest with my right heel in the jug, I had a left hand on the Arete and right hand on a small side pull crimp way out right, brought my right foot quite high to the left end of the edge that sits on top of the big side pull jug (this foot makes for great balance) left heel around the Arete, left han... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Bolt Line (5.8 PG13)
By: lee hansche When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: Again, with empathy to the injured climber, my mind goes directly to how to better educate new climbers rather than how to dumb down the climbs to better suit unprepared parties.
I try to do my part to teach safe climbing practices which is what i personally do for a living but it is something the entire community should be united in. I don't see it as much as i once did... or perhaps its the sheer mass of new climbers out there that makes it hard to reach people.


Location: NH : Southern NH and Seacoast : Exeter Bouldering : The Exeter Boulder
By: lee hansche When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Cool! I've explored a little out there but never got around to climbing anything... definitely write something up on it


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Shiskebob (5.11c PG13)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: It would have been sketchy if I hadn't previewed it and found the key nut placement. So, when i did it I felt safe but if the nut wasn't sound and it popped, then you would have a problem... I tested the move and found the gear before sending it "head point style"... easy to check it out after leading Gunboat..


Location: NH : *Cannon Cliff : 3. Big Wall : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: cool! thanks :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Darth Vader : The Prawn (5.10c) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Jul 29, 2015

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Comments: thanks, yeah i like this one... and i stay more in the corner than this shows


Location: NH : *Rumney
By: lee hansche When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: normally the latest date for the cliffs to reopen is Aug 1st. Most years the closures are lifted well before this. I have seen no signs up there recently so I am thinking that it should be good... But if waiting a week is fine you should surely be in the safe zone by then :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Yellowknife Buttress : Arctic Circle (5.12b)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: Cool :) that's one thing I love about route development. It is absolutely a creative act even though we are working with what is already there. Neat to see what different people will pick out. With your vast experience I'm sure your line is well picked!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Yellowknife Buttress : Arctic Circle (5.12b)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: No worries dude. I just saw your bolts Monday (didn't climb it yet though) as i expected it follows a different line than mine. mine was on the very smooth wall to the right and it went straight through the roof... our lines would only have shared 8 feet of climbing or so and mine would have been more like 12+/13a (and the first half would have crumbled :/. I might still like to put a 1 or 2 bolt variation through the roof on the cool moves I found. if that would be ok. I knew you wouldn't put u... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Yellowknife Buttress : Arctic Circle (5.12b)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Years ago, after inspecting the spot, I actually went so far as to drag my drill up to put up a route in this very section... I gave it a good cleaning then started testing moves, I found the rock where I was climbing to be crumbly under my feet and decided the line would only last a few ascents before it was no good. I hope you found the sweet stuff it certainly was a beautiful piece of rock and I was sad to not put it up.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b) : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: thanks, that's a view you rarely see of this route


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Easy Street (5.3)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: there are a few routes on my list that I just went to the spot described and climbed something that sounded close enough. I believe it started up the off width near the bottom of toady dreams. just have some fun with it then check it off :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Losing Your Life and Living... (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: High on my wish list. Just gotta heal my damn finger and get back to cranking!


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End : Jack The Ripper (5.11a/b PG13)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: P1: a bit of a pain in the ass. Yesterday was the second time i've done most ofthe corner start without gear and down climbed cause it was too sketch. I then did the trick with the bolt on the Possesed...

P2: I found it considerably harder than Cathedral 11a (airation and lichen delight for example) I would have called it 11b/c if I was calling it. regardless of grade, I thought it was great fun, perfect crack climbing with all the sizes :)


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Faux Pas Arete (5.11c)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: I TRed this one yesterday WHAT A SPECTACULAR CLIMB IN THE PERFECT SPOT!
Next time I do Recompense I will have to lead it proper but it was so FUN!

Mark- I stayed left of the arete for the first half then went around to the right and back left to the top. It seemed intuitive that way for me... I didnt see much around the corner that I liked for the first half...


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Angry Inch (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Thanks ward, that's pretty much what I was thinking but I will look to be sure I'm going for the right hold :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Territories : The Angry Inch (5.12c)
By: lee hansche When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: I checked this thing out yesterday. Seemed doable but quite hard...
in the beginning, at the second bolt I traversed left on hard crimps... Did a few layback moves to a killer jug to make the 3rd clip... I was actually able to get a good (partially no-hand) rest here... Technical moves got me to the "impossible" move. I think with the correct balance i could make it happen, I'm nursing a bad finger right now and couldn't really bear down for the move... Left hand smooth arÍte right hand micro cr... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Friendship Tower (5.10b)
By: lee hansche When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: haha i'm just impressed that you did it jay!


Location: NH : WM: Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Dickey Ledge : South America Wall : ... : Photo
By: lee hansche When: Jun 17, 2015

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Comments: Indeed Mark :)

As for the arete, I've looked at it, seems doable but hard. It's a question of style. For one reason or another I feel like it would be a fitting top rope problem. There is a single bolt above the arete that might make a good directional. Not sure if I'd like to see it bolted. I will eventually have a closer look at it.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : Kundalini (5.12d)
By: lee hansche When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: It felt that way to me at first as well... it is a little tricky and quite powerful in the crux (at least the way I did it) then it eases up quite a bit... If you play on it a bit and think outside the box it might just come to you... at 6'2" i didn't think I'd get the kneebar but with some trickery i managed to get it, though it never felt perfect, it worked... best of luck! its worth the work!


Location: NH : *Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : The Pound : EDCL Boulder : EDCL (V2)
By: lee hansche When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: When I was a bit younger I fell off with both arms over the top... couldn't find the good hold and just slid off... My spotters were of little use from that height... they basically spanked me on the way down as I crash landed on to my single pad... yeah, I recommend not falling from up there haha


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall : The Book of Solemnity (5.10a)
By: lee hansche When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: I had never imagined that the current bolts were the originals, I know the kind of gear you all were using back then. As the story was told, they were left that way because that was the original placement... Thank you for debunking this myth! Now... if that old story is BS then will someone please put that anchor in a better place haha...


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