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Member Since: Apr 26, 2004
Last Visit: Jan 15, 2008
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All (179) | Routes (4) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (62) | Posts (17) | Stars (47) | Ratings (44)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Hangover (5.9+)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 26, 2006

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Comments: Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, then gets progressively more difficult all the way to the anchors. The cruxes first feature a massive flake requiring sidepulling and high stepping, followed by a steep fist crack (I had to step out onto the face at right to finish). In all, worthy of a 4-star rating.

If this was the only route available, it would still be worth the boulder hopping slog.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 23, 2006

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Comments: The first place for pro is a long way off the ground, then placements become more plentiful ... until the crack runs out. Feet are very reliable as the route briefly turns from a crack climb to a face climb. Some nice chickenheads left of the crack are welcome.

Wear your low gaiters for the hike up, or your shoes will fill up with bits of gravel.


Location: Via Ferrata - Utah Style
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 18, 2006

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Comments: Ken said:

"It would be a refreshing change to see climbers start spending more of their time just enjoying the sport of climbing, and far less time and energy on the pursuit of judging and condemning those outside of our tight-knit little, vertical family. It reminds me of the Hatfields & McCoys."

What Ken really wants is to limit judgement to WITHIN our tight-knit, little, vertical family. Read some of his earlier posts.

And for what it's worth, Ken was right about the Tyrolean traverse. N... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Reservoir Ridge (5.4)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 4, 2006

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Comments: We did pitch two today, which was relatively enjoyable. There is a fixed piton at belay station #1 and also a nice crack that took a number 5(?) metolius. The rap chains for the southernmost route on the Main Wall were within easy reach of belay station #2.

Pitch 2 actually has a 5.4 "crux," if there is such a thing, which is about the only time anything resembling technical climbing is required. Some exposure can be had by moving out onto the face.

Pitch 3 is really a 4th class... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Entre Nous (5.8+)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 3, 2006

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Comments: It is easy to hang a toprope here by first climbing Italian Arete, then traversing a few feet to lookers right on the huge ledge. Crimpy face climbing on this route, with some sequencing required to gain the best stances for clipping. A good place to learn to trust that sticky rubber!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Roll the Bones (5.6)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 3, 2006

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Comments: Completely different climbing than Italian Arete. Roll the bones is an easy face climb, with much smaller holds and different technique required (e.g. remembering where you just had your hands, since that will become your best foot placement).

Took my daughter (age 19) here for her third-ever climbing experience. We first climbed Italian Arete, then Roll the Bones. She found the route easier than Italian Arete, perhaps because it is less steep.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Reservoir Ridge : Reservoir Ridge (5.4)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 3, 2006

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Comments: Took my daughter here for her first-ever climbing experience. Super easy climbing, barely above 4th class. Good habits can be taught here (e.g. looking down at the feet, as hands can be used almost exclusively for balance.) We only did pitch one, on which there are two pitons and two bolts as fixed protection, followed by the anchor chains for the east facing wall. Comfortable leaders could leave the trad rack behind with all that fixed pro, but we chose to practice gear placements and remov... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Beckey's Wall (5.7)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 31, 2006

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Comments: P1 is fairly short and low angled, although the hand jams seemed shallower than they appear at first glance. Great feet, though, provided you get then into the crack.

P2 makes the climb. Steep, but better hand holds, especially the bomber flakes just below topping out. Great rests, great canyon views ... don't miss this LCC classic.

P3 is probably not worth doing, unless you have an obsessive-complusive need for completion. Kind of lessens the climb, actually.

The route is sun exposed and... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 31, 2006

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Comments: Ahhh ... nothing quite like a 15-foot 5th class boulder problem, followed by a traverse with consequences -- all disguised as "4th class," in classic LCC understatement. As someone once told me, "in Little Cottonwood, anything less than 5.6 is considered 4th class." Some of the more wary among us might actually choose to protect that scramble and traverse, and even be lowered by our bolder partners.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 31, 2006

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Comments: Fairly straightforward climbing on pitches 1 and 2, although each seems to have crux moves. The cruxes protect well, though. The belays at the end of P1 and P2 do not have chains; you will have to set your own anchors. Both belays have good stances and plenty of places to set good pieces.

Sketchy pro on the third pitch, especially after the bolt. Seems like the hand ledge 12-15 feet above the bolt was the first opportunity for a solid placement. Plenty of back and forth from the ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Sweet and Low (5.5)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 31, 2006

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Comments: Okay, fair enough. Reclimbed this route, and several other 5.6-5.7's and I must revise my rating. 5.5 seems more correct. The route is WAY easier than Becky's (5.7) and easier than the crux moves on Steort's. I maintain that missing the second clip could result in deckfall, regardless of how easy the route may be. Be aware, fledling leaders, and be careful.

Prior ratings revised accordingly. Beta not edited.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Nov 9, 2005

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Comments: Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together with a 60 meter rope, although rope drag may become an issue. P1 starts with some straightforward, easy face climbing. Plenty of no hands rests and lots of options for pro (standard rack). After crossing the arete, P1 has some interesting dihedral moves, but nothing too difficult.

P2 has an interesting start. Your best early handholds are also the best chance to place pro, and you will want to get in a piece or two straight away to protect this early cru... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Daffy's Shaft (5.10a R)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 19, 2005

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Comments: Placing pro on this route can lead to a drag-inducing zig-zag, so be sure to have runners at the ready. The first bolt was a considerate placement, not too high and protecting some cruxy slab work. A chickenhead unlocks the roof sequence, which protects well. The route is runout if you go direct from the crack at right to the pin. (you can elect to go left from the crack and get some more pro below the crux). Maybe it was just poor technique, but I'm 6' and had to slap at the ledge above the... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Duck A L'Orange (5.8 R)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 19, 2005

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Comments: There is a dirty crack down low, left of the first bolt. You might want to get some pro into that crack, since a fall below the first bolt could have you doing George of the Jungle (look out for that TREE!). A fair amount of lichen and flakiness; this line does not appear to get climbed as often as it should. We had some questions about doing left to the dead tree or straight up to the boulder to end the route. There are no rap anchors as of this writing, so bring your own slings, ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 16, 2005

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Comments: Okay, Ken, I'll put this in simple terms, so you can understand it. The coffin zone means that if you fall before you get your first piece of gear in this route, you will probably die. And that's dangerous, in anyone's book.My comment is beta on the route. You fall, you probably die. It's a fact. Hence the reason for "X" ratings.

And no one, not you, not Chris freaking Sharma, is going to dictate how I'm going to climb a route. If I feel like bolting it, I'll bolt it. You want to yank th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Jack the Ripper (5.12a R)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: The first chance to place pro on this route is right at the coffin zone. Climb it on toprope or be sure your insurance is paid in full. Adding just one bolt to this route would make it safe, sane, and fun.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Climb and Punishment (5.9-)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: This is a quality splitter. Start with finger locks, working hard for good feet. Be thankful for the jugs mid route, then get ready for some jams. I found it to be just a wee bit too tight for a full fist jam, but your mileage will undoubtedly vary. Only route length keeps this from being a true classic.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Penitentiary Wall : Possession (5.7)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Aug 15, 2005

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Comments: Nothing much to rave about here. Lots of places to rest or stem. 5.7 seems too generous. 5.6 is probably more accurate, but do yourself a favor and go climb schoolroom instead. Don't make the scramble up to Penetentiary for this route.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Appeal (5.6)
By: Lee Gitlin When: May 25, 2005

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Comments: It seems odd to say about a 5.6 route, but this one is hard for the grade, especially the first 3 bolts. A 5.7 rating seems inappropriate, however; the distance between bolts, and some of the cruxes lead me to suggest other 5.6's as a first lead (Italian Arete, with its more positive holds, comes to mind). Six Appeal is is a great route to practice your footwork, as you should only need hands for balance most of the way. Stay honest by avoiding the flake at left, and resist the ur... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Baby Talk (5.5)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Oct 15, 2004

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Comments: This is what happens when someone gets a wild hair and wonders, "Ya think that dirty crack will take pro?" The hardest moves (and this is a relative term) are all within 10 feet of the ground. The route may be short, but at least you have a ton of loose rock at the top. The second pitch is a ridge scramble with consequences, so we chose to use pro for safety.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom (5.6)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Oct 15, 2004

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Comments: Pitch #4 disqualifies this route from being a 3-star. It's an ugly squeeze chimney, with limited pro, followed by a runout (albeit easy) traverse. We did the route via Schoolroom Direct, resuming the route above belay station 1.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom Direct Variation (5.7 R)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Oct 15, 2004

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Comments: This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to traverse out onto the face with your last piece of pro below your feet, but two moves gets you to a bomber, dinner plate sized chicken head. After gaining that chicken head, it looked like you could place a small cam into a crack. I'm guessing it would be maybe 15 feet between pieces? From there, you are into the gully and back on Schoolroom.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Notalotatalk (5.8)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Oct 7, 2004

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Comments: The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Chickenhead Holiday (5.6)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 30, 2004

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Comments: The first 8 feet are the most interesting sequence. This deep crack gobbles up as much big gear as you care to place. Hexes and #2-4 cams work well. I was a little leary of the old, single rap bolt at the belay station. Break out the hemp rope and say your prayers, bailing off of that thing!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Plumb Line Gully : Plumb Line (5.10a)
By: Lee Gitlin When: Sep 30, 2004

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Comments: There are enough chicken heads down low to avoid shredding your fingertips, but the crux demanded an interesting layback/double-gaston/slap-for-the-jug combination. Microcams are the order of the day. A little longer, and this would be a 3-star route. Worth the hike.


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