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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.8)
By: ldsclimber When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I met Frank from Connecticut(he was out here skiing for a couple months) up under the Bong Eater on Jan 18th 08. The rock was perfect and the winds calm. We came up and got him on Hand Jive the next day and TRed the crack on the face. We had the same horrible ski conditions but perfect LCC winter climbing weather. Both were very cool climbs.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a) : Photo
By: ldsclimber When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: lowering off Mexican Crack on a beautiful Jan afternoon
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Butcher Knife (5.10d)
By: ldsclimber When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did Butcher Knife late in Nov 2008. There was snow all around and a blue 45 degree sky. We did the route with two parties and with both leaders climbing at the same time. I'd never done anything like that before. It did make for a good times though and probably more heckling than climbing. I do think it caused me to get a bit off route on the third pitch.
After passing two manky 1/4" bolts on 5.9+ slab my head was not doing so well. I kept heading strait up to a little roof where I ... more >>
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Location: UT : Saint George : Woodbury Road Crags : Kelly's Rock : Photo
By: ldsclimber When: Dec 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: oop's tekoi you're showing your religion. :P
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Greg
I'm back down in St.George so I can't put the hangers under a rock for a while. Sorry. We'll call IME and 7 Metolius hangers will be waiting there for you to pick up tomorrow afternoon. Show ID so not just anyone can go grab them.
I'll be back up in Nov so the studs will be cleaned then.
Cheers Buddy
Aaron
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We will leave Greg's hangers under a rock near the Aquaduct. We feel we have done no wrong. Poison Idea still stands. If Greg feels like the route should stay, hang it. We would hope that if he hangs it, it will be after talking to Merrill. If he chooses not to *HE* should remove *HIS* bolts. What is done is done. The point has been made to all who want to put routes up in ANY area. Be careful where you put your routes up. Greg we want to give you your hangers and nuts back email me and let me ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Ryan
Noted and hopefully I won't be involved in route removal again:)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Tyler
I appreciate your thoughts as it does make me think how we could have done this better. I totally agree that a phone call should have happened, but attempts were made to find out who did it so we could talk. I guess we just went to the wrong places to find out. My friends asked those they knew who were bolting new routes at the Gyms and at local climbing shops along the Wasatch. The thought to check here was not had. We are not on this sight very often.
I can see how the reuse of t... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do believe this could have/should have been handled differently. We are new at this. As for pulling the bolts, we'd rather it be a mutual tack vs just me and those that share my opinion. We really don't want to do anything till we have a chance to chat with Greg, until then I won't pull them. As it stands right now Poison Idea is still a route and a concern has been duly noted.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My letter to Greg
Hey Greg
I was on Mountain Project for the first time in a long time and found your route Poison Idea on it. I wish I would have seen it, because I would have talked to you earlier.
Have you ever lead Aquaduck to the right of your route? I and several other climbers, see it as one of the top climbs in BCC for its spice. While I was in Iraq the last time, my buddy James told me that there were bolts on it. So after I got back we went to climb it to see if they interfered w... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Aquaduck (5.10d R)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A Merrill Bitter Classic!!
One of the best 5.10s in BCC!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Nosferatu (5.10b)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just saw it and climbed it today. Fun and great little addition to the Puritan Area:) I agree on the chains.We'll see if it gets fixed ;)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Fingers In A Lightsocket (5.11+)
By: ldsclimber When: Oct 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was going for it durring a blizzard in 05. I'll never foget it. No one was there, it was awesome but cold. I placed a .4 BD at the good foot on the left, about 20' up, and then ran it out. I got to where you move out to the face hold out right a good 15' past my last piece. I mean i was feeling good. Just as I reached out right my foot poped sending me flying face down looking at my belayer who had one hand on the rope and one hand in the air to catch me. I could not believe I was still fallin... more >>
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