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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine (5.8+) : Photo
By: Larry Pedigo When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that dude taking a leak down there?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Cave Wall : Photo
By: Larry Pedigo When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the coolest pics I've ever seen.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Takin' Care of Business/ We... (5.5)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Aug 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The trick to a reasonable approach is finding where to leave the Royal Arch trail. Before you crest the hump, right as it comes into view, head west into the trees. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a faint trail. This is your huckleberry. Follow it all the way to GMP.
I can usually sniff out gear placements if they’re around. I could find very little on this route. The only two pieces that I could see being useful would be a #6 and a #3. Deep in the chimney, you’ll find an off-width-si... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall
By: Larry Pedigo When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Today marked my first visit to Tonnere. We hit up the Treasure Wall area specifically. Thanks to all involved for the hard work in developing this crag and adding to the Front Range catalog of climbs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Curving Crack (5.9)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Aug 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you smeared vaseline all over this route, I don't think it would make a difference.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Gambit (5.8) : Photo
By: Larry Pedigo When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice! Great pic featuring a great route.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Hen and Chickens : Rooster Tail (5.9)
By: Larry Pedigo When: May 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: RT offers a lot of variety for only being a single pitch. It's broken up into three distinct sections, each of which requires a different technique. After slotting some perfect jams, and then balancing (or fighting) your way along the arching crack, you are treated to some thoughtful and delicate face moves.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Elephant Man (5.10-)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the photo posted by shawn for the Unknown 5.9 climb (on the same crag) is actually of Elephant Man. I don’t want to pick on anyone, but if you enlarge the photo, you can see the grooves worn directly into the rock by toproping. It underscores a problem we saw repeatedly at the Creek: careless toproping. It takes very little to saw through Windgate sandstone, especially when the dark red and black veneer has worn off. There were many other climbs bearing the same scars. We brought along... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Unknown (5.9) : Photo
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is actually Elephant Man.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : East Side (5.8+)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! The airy finish was definitely a hoot and a hollar. The fin protected better than I was expecting. I was able to place several textbook Aliens.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Cornered, straight up varia... (5.9)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Jul 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Your Basic Lieback (5.6)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Jul 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn fine for a 5.6! It could be my favorite at the grade in the canyon, ahead of Wind Ridge, Calypso, and Washington Irving. I think it's well worth doing if you're in the area. This route and Cornered make a great link-up.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Star Wars (5.8)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Jun 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route affords a spectacular view of Redgarden. As you make your way up, enjoy watching parties ascend classic routes like the Yellow Spur, Ruper, Anthill Direct, Rewritten, etc.
As for gear, take singles up to a #1 Camalot and two #2 Camalots. You don't need anything larger. A purple and an orange Alien protect the off-width section.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Gonzo (5.8)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Mar 31, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! I have one friend who loves it; one who hates it. Go figure! The moves on the first pitch crux are fun to execute and protect well with a red Alien (I think someone else mentioned that and they were right on). The second pitch offers some stellar hand and fist jams, along with some arm bars. For a (7) pitch, it's sustained with no comfortable rests for a good 15-foot portion toward the end. Just keep moving. Don't burn your big gear early, if you can help it. Three stars.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cruel Shoes (5.9)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Nov 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cruel Shoes! I believe some bouldering problems actually have more moves than this route. With that said, this route proved fun and interesting. I hesitate to rate this climb in difficulty or quality because of its brevity. It didn't feel like a Boulder Canyon (9) to me. But I definitely thought it was worth the time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Sep 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend Jason Shatek told me the other day he discovered bats nested in the crack on the crux of Reggae. I found the same in the crack on pitch four of Rewritten. I could barely see them rustling around back in there. They seemed to shy away from me. Beware!
This is still one of my favorite 7s anywhere. And yes, do as everyone suggests and take the Great Zot start. It really adds to the climb and is safer.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Aug 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is stellar. The third pitch is first rate. The cave exiit is as much of a stemming problem as it is a roof problem.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Jun 30, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally red-pointed the first pitch of this yesterday. Anything you choose to place at the crux will be blind. Still, you can feel how well it sinks in by reaching your fingers into the crack. Just after the crux, you can examine and readjust the piece as necessary. A green Alien slotted and cammed correctly will be bomber. Personally, I didn't feel the need to back it up.
The rest of the climb offers few rests, so I found that I had to keep moving. That last 15 feet offers a great han... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Pool of Blood (5.9)
By: Larry Pedigo When: May 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Burly but fun. Hexes work okay if you don't rack extra #3 Camalots.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock-a-Lot (5.7)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this pitch was every bit as good, and maybe even better, than its neighbor Double Dogleg. I found that stemming the beginning worked well.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Double Dogleg (5.7)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This offers a pleasant lead with lots of gear opportunity and an abundance of jugs.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb indeed. The exposure you find moving out from under the roof is nice. What did we find atop the rock, but a natural cistern full o' water.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Bonzo Dog Band (5.7)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I enjoyed this route because of its thought provoking nature. At first, I considered climbing the outside face, which looked do-able, but tough to protect. I opted to stay in the crack. You can stem up a ways. I found that fist jams worked well through the crux moves. Just jam and keep moving. The second half of the pitch offered some pleasant climbing. Tape up for this.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: After spending five days in J-tree, I decided that Double Cross was my favorite climb of those we did. I thought the crack was excellent. The first 20 feet are pretty mellow. I believe I got a green alien in before transitioning to the crack. After that, it was just one great jam after another. If I lived in the area, I would frequent this climb.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Larry Pedigo When: Apr 11, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I finally had the opportunity to lead the first pitch last Friday. I thought it was a stellar lead and can't wait to do it again. I'm surprised this isn't as popular as the Bastille Crack. Anyway, great apres work climb.
The second pitch looks challenging and I'm psyching myself up for it one of these days. I've seen people solo it effortlessly, so how hard can it be, right ;).
Also, thanks for the beta about taking the ramp to finish on the Bastille Crack. Imho, it's a worthw... more >>
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