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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Pink Tornado Left (5.9+)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left side is not particularly enjoyable.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Smooth Sailing (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah-- it's coming back to me now. Good lead on that. Isn't it neat how a small change in hardware can add such an increment of interest to a climb?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this photo shows the East Ridge as starting below the red band, this is probably not a good choice. The obvious line on the red band is steep, mossy, rounded, apparently unprotected, and sometimes wet. On our ascent, we joined a short distance above.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : MysterZ (5.7)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Nov 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brutus-- the history of this route is lost in the mists. I recall having seen a photo of Tom Kaufman on this general line back in the 70s. Like much of what was done back then, the details and memories have faded. But Phil and Jimmy have their own place among the legends of the era, and their story was meaningful, so it seemed appropriate to let their name take official status.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Oct 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That was Comici with the water drop...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One good way to handle the approach is by linking with one of the routes on the Magic Triangle or Community Pillar. For example, climb Magic Triangle and descend the back (south) side. Start at the minor notch that separates the Magic Triangle from the main part of the Community Pillar. A little downclimbing and a short rappel or two will take you right to the starting area of Crabby Appleton.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Thagomizer (5.10) : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are right-- vertical on both walls. The only thing not vertical on that pitch was the stuff that was overhanging! I have fixed the photographer's error. . .
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Degunker (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jun 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nobody yet. At this point, my best speculation would point toward a New Yorker with a strong survival instinct
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Kaleidoscope Cracks (5.8) : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, taken from the shoulder where Black Orpheus ends. Chicken Lips is not visible here (out of this photo to the right). If I find a good picture of it, I will post it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Canyon : Windy Peak : St. Stephen (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "A standard selection of nuts" may have worked well for the old masters, but a big cam (#4 Camalot or bigger) is unlikely to go unused in the slanting pitch 3 crack.
Also- the "thin 5.8 face climbing" high on the route is probably optional. I don't recall any tricky moves to access the upper slabs; not even any tricky routefinding.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Canyon : Windy Peak : St. Stephen (5.8) : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: In Joanne Urioste's original guidebook, this section is described with the unmistakably Hamiltonian phrase: "Go left into a large, smooth corner, which looks easy but is not."
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Blood Wall : OW Negative (5.9 C2+)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: May 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. The aid roof on pitch two has secure placements, but they are strenuous and awkward. Even cleaning has some challenges, because the leader has undoubtedly walked the big cams. The crack itself is very solid, but there is some friable rock at the edge, so the belayer should choose a protected position.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : The Black Pearl (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: May 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was just up here again and noticed the rappel anchor was already showing some signs of sun bleaching. It wouldn't be a bad idea for the next folks up here to reinforce the anchor. This needs about 30 feet or so of webbing or rope. If you are willing to do a little easy downclimbing, you could descend with just a single 60-meter rope.
On a down note, I noticed that somebody has been up here real recently with a saw or pruning shears. The result was unsightly, unnecessary, and illegal.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Rising Moons (5.5 PG13) : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture makes the crack look kind of intimidating, but the combination of low-angle and face features make it a pretty friendly pitch.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka... (5.10+)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Feb 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right again, Phil-- but despite its size there is not enough on the Lady Wilson Wall to merit its own area (not yet at least). Once a few more things get done, I'll enter a new wall and separate the routes into more localized areas.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka... (5.10+)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Feb 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're speaking of the "Son of Wilson" route. I'm not sure exactly where that is, but I think it is quite a ways down and left from this area. Need to do more scouting. . .
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Johnny Vegas (5.6)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Nov 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cammyjams-- it sounds like you got onto the 5.9 variation. The standard route goes to the right from the 2nd belay. The climbing is very easy, but not much protection on the right (unless you do something weird, you will be too far to the right to even clip the bolt).
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolts??!! makes me ill. . .
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Mescalito - South Face (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most obvious descent is to go west to the notch, then south with lots of scrambling and maybe 1 single-rope rappel to regain the streambed a few hundred yards upstream from the start of the route. Of course, any of the Mescalito descent options could be used.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Oct 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have descended gully A once. Not likely to do it again. . .
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jun 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "RR setting anchors..." ??? Sure doesn't look like Royal Robbins to me!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Hard Case (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: May 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth noting that the Red Book called it 5.8 (the same as Lady Wilson's Cleavage)...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Birthday Party (5.10 R)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: May 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vegastradguy says:
"...the Honeycomb exit is one of the best 5.8 corners in Red Rock..."
So, Bridwell wants to know, "Innocent, ignorant, or insecure?"
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Mar 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Further on the thin crack leading to the chockstone: I had the opportunity to ask George Urioste why they drilled the bolt on the face when the crack was right there. They had climbed the crack, of course, and figured it was good solid old-school 5.9 (no sandbag, there-- I agree). But George always had a thought for the community. He figured that a knucklebuster 5.9 fingercrack was out of place on what was otherwise a pretty relaxed 5.8 route. By adding the bolt-protected balance moves to th... more >>
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