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Member Since: Nov 1, 2002
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Larry DeAngelo


Point Rank: # 110
Total Points: 4,003
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
77 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Larry DeAngelo been climbing?










Contributions


All 1079 | Routes 129 | Areas 23 | Photos 461 | Page Improvements | Comments 63 | Posts 269 | Stars 127 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Dodgeball (5.7)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: A note on the rating. . . Some people have said this was harder than 5.7. I recently climbed it again and can offer the observation that this difference might be height-dependent. At a point or two I found myself stretching for hold and glad I had the reach. Anyway, if you're not tall, the 5.8 rating may be more appropriate.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Nadia's Nine (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: George-- story is here:

pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/climb_05...
rockclimbing.com/forum/Climbin...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Nowhere Man (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: After John and I (and Matt) did the route several years ago, I ran down the history. The first ascent had been a few years before that by Joanne Urioste and Karl Wilcox. The name "Nowhere Man" refers to the fact that, as Tim observed, it does not provide a good connection to any of the routes on the upper wall.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jan 15, 2012

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Comments: Yes-- I would say I have climbed it. I cannot be certain of the original line as I have only second-hand info. The info I had was that Jay Smith had thought the route was easy and rated it 5.9. This was consistent with my own observations, and clearly there is a boltless line there.

Of course, the presence or absence of bolts on this or any other specific climb allows no conclusion about bolting in a general climbing context. Currently it seems the general direction of climbing is toward ca... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Labyrinth Wall
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: No bolts on Guinness Book . . .


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : NOPE.NOPE.NOPE.NOPE.NOPE. (5.5)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jan 12, 2012

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Comments: This is actually a decent 3-pitch variation start to Lady Luck. First pitch has pleasant varnish, second a good clean chimney.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : The Schoolyard : School of Rock (5.5)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Dec 10, 2011

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Comments: My recollection (hazy) is that descent was by rappel right down the route, and I think the anchor point was slings around a block or something similar. There may have been a way to scramble off the back, but if there was, it was probably not easy. I also don't remember if you could get by with just one rope. This does not see a lot of traffic, so it would probably be worthwhile to have some extra sling material to reinforce things.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Physical Graffiti (5.6)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Rich, two ropes are unnecessary. Most people will walk off left or rap to the gully on the right with a single rope.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7) : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: Karl, I think your line would work fine. On Big Sky we followed the green line pretty exactly on easy, clean slabs. I think going right lower would trade the slabs for a broken gully.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jan 13, 2011

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Comments: Anant-- it is possible to continue to the summit of Rainbow Mountain from the top of Solar Slab, but it is a substantially bigger operation. Not a "hike" either; several roped pitches, including one or two of 5.9 unless your routefinding is a lot better than mine. Once you unrope, you still have a half-hour walk to the summit followed by the non-trivial Oak Creek descent. Just as a yardstick, we took about 6 hours from the top of the Solar Slab route to get to the summit and back dow... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Hall of Mirrors (5.10c PG13)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Nov 22, 2010

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Comments: Karsten-- this route is to the left of Jed's line, although both routes seem to have that "angling crack on left side of buttress" feature. Jed's line started by Rising Moons and went up left of Sunset Slab. If I recall properly, it was called either "The Temp Files" or "All Chalkless Revue".


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Hey Rat, the topout makes the route a bit bigger and more adventurous; definitely worthwhile. When I have been up there, we climbed the crack system about 50 feet up and to the right of the line marked in the John Hegyes photo. It was also a click or two harder than the lower route. If you just want to get up to the base of the Brownstone Wall, it is easier to go up Myster Z.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Sep 29, 2010

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Comments: Peter- The Hot Fudge Thursday start is close to Jubilant-- maybe 100 yards away. Descent for both is the same. An efficient party could do the two routes. And if you were running late after the first one, you could certainly adjust your plans...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jul 10, 2010

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Comments: Although this route may appear to have unnecessary bolts by today's standards, it is worth keeping a little historical perspective. At the time this route was first climbed (1978), cams were rare and small cams were non-existent. The original guidebook says:

"There are two ethical considerations which are unique to the Red Rocks: the use of pitons and the quality of bolt placement. Generally, pitons offer dubious protection and it is difficult to judge the quality of their placements in Red ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Yeah-- the map on the Los Alamos site is mislabeled. Whiskey Peak is the comparatively small peak in the lower left (between where is says "option 1" and "option 2")


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jan 13, 2010

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Comments: You guys ought to be more helpful to persons such as Loco and Alpine. If they are finding the Epi chimneys low-quality and uninspiring, it would a simple matter to steer them, for example, toward Deep Space for a better perspective and a more engrossing experience.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Sounds like Sandstone Samurai... Write it up!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Pink Tornado Left (5.9+)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 10, 2009

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Comments: The left side is not particularly enjoyable.


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Smooth Sailing (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Apr 1, 2009

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Comments: Yeah-- it's coming back to me now. Good lead on that. Isn't it neat how a small change in hardware can add such an increment of interest to a climb?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Cactus Flower Tower : Cactus Flower Tower summit : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Feb 22, 2009

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Comments: Although this photo shows the East Ridge as starting below the red band, this is probably not a good choice. The obvious line on the red band is steep, mossy, rounded, apparently unprotected, and sometimes wet. On our ascent, we joined a short distance above.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : MysterZ (5.7)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Nov 13, 2008

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Comments: Brutus-- the history of this route is lost in the mists. I recall having seen a photo of Tom Kaufman on this general line back in the 70s. Like much of what was done back then, the details and memories have faded. But Phil and Jimmy have their own place among the legends of the era, and their story was meaningful, so it seemed appropriate to let their name take official status.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area : Crabby Appleton (5.9 PG13)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Oct 16, 2008

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Comments: That was Comici with the water drop...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Oct 10, 2008

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Comments: One good way to handle the approach is by linking with one of the routes on the Magic Triangle or Community Pillar. For example, climb Magic Triangle and descend the back (south) side. Start at the minor notch that separates the Magic Triangle from the main part of the Community Pillar. A little downclimbing and a short rappel or two will take you right to the starting area of Crabby Appleton.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Thagomizer (5.10) : Photo
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: You are right-- vertical on both walls. The only thing not vertical on that pitch was the stuff that was overhanging! I have fixed the photographer's error. . .


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Degunker (5.8)
By: Larry DeAngelo When: Jun 30, 2008

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Comments: Nobody yet. At this point, my best speculation would point toward a New Yorker with a strong survival instinct


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