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Member Since: Dec 30, 2006
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 522
Total Points: 1,171
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
175 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Larry Coats been climbing?










Contributions


All 278 | Routes 17 | Areas 3 | Photos 180 | Page Improvements | Comments 56 | Posts 8 | Stars 14 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Pilgrims Progress (5.10+)
By: Larry Coats When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: First ascent- Steve Grossman et al. (who else would go up on that ugly thing?)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Bell's Beast : Beast (5.11a)
By: Larry Coats When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: We really enjoyed this route, and it would easily deserve three stars if not for the bit of third class after the 1st pitch. The quartz inclusions are a bit flaky, but the dark granite is superb (dare I say better than most of Little C?). It was quite visionary of James to check this one out, as it's not very attractive looking from a distance, but turns out to be a great route, and very well equipped. Go do it!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Red Pine Crag : Photo
By: Larry Coats When: Aug 4, 2011

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Comments: Note the mountain goat right in the main notch- very cool!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Peter's Ladder (5.9)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: A little history for this route: it was another remarkable line envisioned by Scott Baxter, and named for his then newly-born son (now in graduate school in Flagstaff!). The line follows the striking diagonal corner system, beginning as a ramp, then reversing into an overhang at the end. As noted in the description, most of the lower section is easy, but gains difficulty higher up. The crux comes at the very last move- a wild hand traverse above the abyss, followed by an undercut mantle onto a p... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: I would be interested to hear from John and Chris about whether these cracks are new. We have seen this situation in Sedona before, where the expansion of the bolt sleeve has fractured the rock, at times actually flaking the entire bolt off the rock surface (Tarantula Tower 1st pitch). Just a heads-up that possibly these bolts should be evaluated since a failure would surely be a catastrophe.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Lost Huecos (5.10a/b R)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 23, 2010

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Comments: First ascent: Heather Hayes, Tomas Robison, Larry Coats


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Tiptoe Through the 2 Lips (5.10-)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 23, 2010

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Comments: I am responsible for adding the two-bolt belay at the top of the first pitch. Like Kole, I felt that the anchor was warranted, but also I returned with some of my scientific colleagues to sample the amazing, large packrat midden that sits on a ledge just above the belay, and I wanted some more security to bring them up and to take some samples. We analyzed the midden and were astonished to find that it is over 30,000 years old (dating to before the last glacial maximum), and contained the remain... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : East Face (5.11c PG13)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: FA was Dugald Bremner/ L. Coats- one aid move off a tiny hex at the top of the thin crack. Paul got to use his new .75 titanium stemmed Friend (remember those?) when he returned with Grossman to free the final move of that pitch. But the second pitch that I led featured some wild stemming and hand jamming that I thought was more sustained than the the first pitch thin crack.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Marg's Draw Area : ... : North Face (5.9+)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 21, 2010

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Comments: Just a little confusion on the FA info: The route was put up by Geoff Parker, utilizing his tied-together three-bong rope toss to surmount the pitch three offwidth bulge. Then Karlstrom and Hardwick freeclimbed the route, with Karl cranking through the bulge with no pro, but suggesting that a bolt be added. Baxter, Gordie Douglass, and myself returned and placed the bolt (with Scott standing on our shoulders to drill). Finally, several years later, Kim Spence led the left side offwidth, I assume... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Kingfolia (5.10+)
By: Larry Coats When: Jan 10, 2008

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Comments: FA: Steve Grossman, Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson, early '80's.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Bushman (5.11d)
By: Larry Coats When: Jan 10, 2008

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Comments: FA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, late '70's.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Bushdoctor (5.11-)
By: Larry Coats When: Jan 10, 2008

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Comments: FA: Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley, late '70's.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Sail Away (5.12b)
By: Larry Coats When: Jan 10, 2008

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Comments: Sorry, thought I'd updated the FA info: FA Tim Coats, Paul Davidson, and Jim Haisley, early '80's, with some effort. The start then was easier then, since a column on the lower section has fallen over since the FA.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Sine Wall : Born Under a Bad Sine (5.10-)
By: Larry Coats When: Jan 10, 2008

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Comments: First route put up at the Forks. Regardless of rumors, cams (Friends) were in use, just nothing smaller than a #1, although Scott did protect most of the climb on passive gear (stoppers and hexes). An interesting aside, though, is that we started in the groove to the left of the normal start today, and it was protected with a thrown hex into the slot at the top since the crack in the groove is sealed. I tried this start again several years ago, and couldn't do it, or at least not on the pr... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Dresdoom (5.9+ R)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: A little detail that has been lost over the years concerning protection on this climb is to carry a bunch of tied cords (small perlon loops) that can be untied and threaded through solution pockets, then re-tied with one hand. We were inspired by stories of just such techniques from the real Dresden region, and when we got the chance to try it out here we found that it provided protection where nothing else would work.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Book Of Friends (5.10c)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: First ascent Scott Baxter and John Gault.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Ship Of Fools (5.9+)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: A safety trick for the start that was revealed to me quite late, after scaring myself getting off the ground many times- a #3 Friend (or probably a blue Camalot) fits in a VERY inobvious slot under the left side of the overhang (rotate the cam 180 degrees to check that you have the right placement). It truly is solid, and provides excellent pro for the start.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Ivory Snow (5.10+)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: Just for a little historical perspective- this was one of the Forks climbs that was put up pre-TCU's (smallest cam at the time was the #1 Friend). So Paul protected the crux on wired hexentrics and wired SMC Camlocks (anybody ever see one of these- funky!).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : T.L. Bush (5.10 PG13)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: On the first ascent a "lost" technique was used to protect the moves off the ground- a nut toss into the obvious slot. If you still carry hexes, it still works to this day!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Gold Finger (5.11b/c)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: First ascent Larry and Tim Coats, late 70's, yarding off a nut to exit the ledge. Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley managed that move free on the second ascent.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Syzygy (5.8)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: First ascent Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, late 60's. Named for an astromical alignment of planets.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Mint Jam (5.8)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: First ascent Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, early 70's.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Left Trinity Crack (5.10-)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: First ascent Scott Baxter for all three of the Trinity Cracks.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : I've Always Been Crazy (5.10+)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: First ascent John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Burnt Buns (5.8)
By: Larry Coats When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: Also a Scott Baxter et al. route, early 70's?


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