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Location: ME : Shagg Crag
By: Lanky When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Folks were up there last weekend. Still some dripping from above, but definitely climbable.
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Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Umbrella Boulder : Satan on a Halfshell (V10)
By: Lanky When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The beta in that vid is for CRAZY STRONG MOFOS! Normal people do at least two moves before hitting the high right crimp he grabs first.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : 3 Red Shirts (V4+)
By: Lanky When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is actually to the left of Old People With Soul. It climbs the face left of the offset offwidth feature.
Also, I did a pretty obvious sit start from a crimp on the right side of the arete down low and a left hand sidepull on the face. One long move reaches the flat jugs. Might be V5. I thought the stand was more like mid-range V4.
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Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Lodestone : Against the Grain (V3-4) : Photo
By: Lanky When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a line that's basically behind the tree in this photo that goes at maybe V4 from the stand. No idea what the name is.
There's also a kinda thuggy low-ball-ish problem on the right arete seen here. Probably also about V4.
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Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Lodestone : Against the Grain (V3-4)
By: Lanky When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock quality on this line isn't great, which doesn't really distinguish it from the other lines on this side of the boulder.
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Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : Lower Boulder : Clear the Deck (V2-3)
By: Lanky When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: there's a sit from the right side of this face that feels harder than V2/3 to me. A crouch start in the middle is more like V1/2 though.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Power & Technique (V4)
By: Lanky When: Oct 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Huh. Was there last week. I won't miss it.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c) : Photo
By: Lanky When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: W.T.Fuck? That is some BS.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Illmob Boulder
By: Lanky When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Couple things:
1. This boulder is losing a battle with moss. The side with The Ripper on it is particularly lush.
2. I did a pair of lines not listed here:
~a: The first is an easy arete just right of the tree on the Tragedy of Dusk side of the bloc. Starts on jugs and works up right to a very easy topout. Probably V0.
~b: The second is the one I think Andy was talking about. It starts on the low part of the boulder below the slab you walk down to get off and follows the lip/arete up and ri... more >>
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : High Tech Issues (V8)
By: Lanky When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You cross? Damn. Hardcore. I'd recommend going right hand and then crossing to the good incut flake thing.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : High Tech Issues (V8)
By: Lanky When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I get the gaston & sidepul, do some hard footwork to get my right foot up to the sharp crimp you move to the gaston from, and fire for the pocket. Then I fall.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Dolt (5.10a)
By: Lanky When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well worth bringing a couple long slings to reduce drag. Key bolt is the one on the first steep section at about mid-height, but there are a couple others that could be extended as well.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: Lanky When: Aug 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : The Next Message (V7)
By: Lanky When: Mar 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing feels crazy hard to me. There's gotta be beta I was missing, because it felt solid V8 or harder. Amazing line, though.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : The Scoop (V3)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Footage of someone (ok, me) making this look harder than it probably is (starts at about 0:48)"
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : General Lee (V2)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: General Lee is the first problem in this vid:
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Firecracker (V2)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vid of Firecracker starts at about 1:45.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Firecracker Arete (V3)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here's my unapproved beta (starts at about 2:25):
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Zoo
By: Lanky When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a nice V4ish problem, but it's got some potential for nastiness. You definitely don't want to slip off the feet at the start and jam your self into the gap between the boulders. Plus, some of the flakes are pretty hollow. Fun climbing, though. No idea about the name.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Firecracker Arete (V3)
By: Lanky When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or, start with your right hand in the crack, left on an undercling-ish hold low on the arete, left foot backstep on the hold below your right hand, and basically lay back the crack for 3 moves. Then reach for the sidepull on the arete, bump right hand, grab the lip and top out. Maybe not approved beta, but works.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Crimp Problem (V3)
By: Lanky When: Feb 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason, the sit is a soft V6 and the stand (from the "smiley face" crimp) is a hard V3.
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Marsh Boulders : Headz Ain't Ready (V8)
By: Lanky When: Jan 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Roy, I started a forum thread for this topic. I think you'll get better response there: www.mountainproject.com/v/visiting-pawtuckaway---recommended>>>
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Location: ME : Lisbon Falls Boulder
By: Lanky When: Dec 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is still occasionally under water due to dam releases, no?
Oh, and thanks for adding it!
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Location: ME : Lisbon Falls Boulder : Head For Higher Ground (V7)
By: Lanky When: Dec 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the flake is basically gone, isn't it?
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Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Split Boulder : Rio's Problem (V7)
By: Lanky When: Dec 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've long been curious: how the hell do you get down from this boulder?
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