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Member Since: Jun 20, 2008
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,394
Total Points: 413
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All (826) | Routes (18) | Areas (1) | Photos (12) | Comments (158) | Posts (329) | Stars (208) | Ratings (100)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : Jeremy's Sick Crimps (V4+)
By: Lanky When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: IDK, Bryce. I think I'd call the original method an eliminate if much easier beta is available. Just because the first folks to try it didn't find the beta doesn't mean it's not there.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... : ... : Photo
By: Lanky When: Nov 19, 2013

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Comments: If you can, bring your knee up inside your right hand. Made a huge difference for me. Oh, and go all the way to the jug. The undercling is kind of a sucker hold.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : High Tech Issues (V8)
By: Lanky When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: So it's, what, solid V9 now?


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Warmup Area : Shark Attack (V6)
By: Lanky When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Entirely possible, Christian. A friend did it and thought it was new and/or unnamed. When I did it, it came together pretty easily despite the terrible, terrible holds for your right hand. Oh, and I definitely didn't do any dynoing as in the description for the V8 variation.


Location: ME : Shagg Crag
By: Lanky When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Folks were up there last weekend. Still some dripping from above, but definitely climbable.


Location: NH : Rumney : *Rumney Bouldering : Black Jack Boulders : The Umbrella Boulder : Satan on a Halfshell (V10)
By: Lanky When: Mar 7, 2013

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Comments: The beta in that vid is for CRAZY STRONG MOFOS! Normal people do at least two moves before hitting the high right crimp he grabs first.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Death of the Blues (V4+)
By: Lanky When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: I think this is actually to the left of Old People With Soul. It climbs the face left of the offset offwidth feature.

Also, I did a pretty obvious sit start from a crimp on the right side of the arete down low and a left hand sidepull on the face. One long move reaches the flat jugs. Might be V5. I thought the stand was more like mid-range V4.


Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Lodestone : Against the Grain (V3-4) : Photo
By: Lanky When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: There's a line that's basically behind the tree in this photo that goes at maybe V4 from the stand. No idea what the name is.

There's also a kinda thuggy low-ball-ish problem on the right arete seen here. Probably also about V4.


Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : The Lodestone : Against the Grain (V3-4)
By: Lanky When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Rock quality on this line isn't great, which doesn't really distinguish it from the other lines on this side of the boulder.


Location: ME : Bradbury Mt. State Park : Lower Boulder : Clear the Deck (V2-3)
By: Lanky When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: there's a sit from the right side of this face that feels harder than V2/3 to me. A crouch start in the middle is more like V1/2 though.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area : Power & Technique (V4)
By: Lanky When: Oct 25, 2012

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Comments: Huh. Was there last week. I won't miss it.


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Rhythm X (5.13b/c) : Photo
By: Lanky When: Oct 24, 2012

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Comments: W.T.Fuck? That is some BS.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Illmob Boulder
By: Lanky When: Oct 19, 2012

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Comments: Couple things:

1. This boulder is losing a battle with moss. The side with The Ripper on it is particularly lush.

2. I did a pair of lines not listed here:

~a: The first is an easy arete just right of the tree on the Tragedy of Dusk side of the bloc. Starts on jugs and works up right to a very easy topout. Probably V0.

~b: The second is the one I think Andy was talking about. It starts on the low part of the boulder below the slab you walk down to get off and follows the lip/arete up and ri... more >>


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : High Tech Issues (V8)
By: Lanky When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: You cross? Damn. Hardcore. I'd recommend going right hand and then crossing to the good incut flake thing.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : High Tech Issues (V8)
By: Lanky When: Sep 13, 2012

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Comments: I get the gaston & sidepul, do some hard footwork to get my right foot up to the sharp crimp you move to the gaston from, and fire for the pocket. Then I fall.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Dolt (5.10a)
By: Lanky When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: Well worth bringing a couple long slings to reduce drag. Key bolt is the one on the first steep section at about mid-height, but there are a couple others that could be extended as well.


Location: NH : Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11b)
By: Lanky When: Aug 13, 2012

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Comments: This would be a fantastic short route, but the first big flake creaked when I pulled on it, which I found thoroughly disconcerting. Definitely harder than Clusterphobia in my opinion, but not two letter grades.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : The Next Message (V7)
By: Lanky When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: This thing feels crazy hard to me. There's gotta be beta I was missing, because it felt solid V8 or harder. Amazing line, though.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : The Scoop (V3)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Footage of someone (ok, me) making this look harder than it probably is (starts at about 0:48)"




Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Scoop Area : General Lee (V2)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: General Lee is the first problem in this vid:





Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Firecracker Arete (V3)
By: Lanky When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Here's my unapproved beta (starts at about 2:25):




Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Zoo
By: Lanky When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: It's a nice V4ish problem, but it's got some potential for nastiness. You definitely don't want to slip off the feet at the start and jam your self into the gap between the boulders. Plus, some of the flakes are pretty hollow. Fun climbing, though. No idea about the name.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Blair Woods : Rainforest Boulder (Valley ... : Firecracker Arete (V3)
By: Lanky When: Feb 21, 2012

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Comments: Or, start with your right hand in the crack, left on an undercling-ish hold low on the arete, left foot backstep on the hold below your right hand, and basically lay back the crack for 3 moves. Then reach for the sidepull on the arete, bump right hand, grab the lip and top out. Maybe not approved beta, but works.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Round Pond : Crimp Problem (V3)
By: Lanky When: Feb 9, 2012

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Comments: Jason, the sit is a soft V6 and the stand (from the "smiley face" crimp) is a hard V3.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Marsh Boulders : Headz Ain't Ready (V8)
By: Lanky When: Jan 27, 2012

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Comments: Hey Roy, I started a forum thread for this topic. I think you'll get better response there: www.mountainproject.com/v/visiting-pawtuckaway---recommended>>>


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