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Rock Climbing Photo: Cams are over rated.


Member Since: Aug 24, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Kyle Wills

Kyle Wills
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Point Rank: # 671
Total Points: 1,109
Last Year: 140
Last 30 Days: 1
16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 915 | Routes 34 | Areas 2 | Photos 128 | Page Improvements | Comments 99 | Posts 110 | Stars 469 | Ratings 73
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock : ... : Photo
By: Kyle Wills When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Are you kidding, all that surface area really increases your friction. Maybe not the best for technical higher grade slabs, but a great way to teach the first timers about keeping your heel low and really believing in the friction.


Location: Kyle Wills : General : Photo
By: Kyle Wills When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/scalded-...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Jimmy Cliff : Jimmy Cliff - South Face
By: Kyle Wills When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: Went here to climb Downpour and Thin Flakes after take some new climbers to the Aiguille. Was with a group of 5 and three were not solid jtree technical scramblers. We did a lot of bushwhacking and ended up giving up on the approach.

The climbs are about 100ft above the desert floor and there are multiple 9-15 ft technical sections that would require confident solo'ing or roping up. Mixed with the preponderance of thorny bushes at the base making even flaking out the rope a frustrating experie... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lloyd's Rock : Friend Eater (5.9)
By: Kyle Wills When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Definitely more enjoyable then the Fissure, DONT MISS OUT! Great moves around the corner, top could be more sustained but the perfect hands is fantastic after the thin stuff. Had no issue with 'stuck gear' although someone overcammed a brand new BD X4 purple in the 'fissure', good luck getting it out, I gave up.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Snnfchtt (5.8+)
By: Kyle Wills When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: I don't recall the details but I would first and foremost note the standard J-tree adage: the first ten feet don't factor into the rating of many of the climbs (or something to that effect)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Catch A Falling Car (5.10c)
By: Kyle Wills When: Nov 8, 2015

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Comments: So after leading Catch a falling star and TRing Nobody walks in LA, we swung the rope around and I believe, did this route. There was a new-er camo'd bolt just above and left of where the lower diagonal seam peters out and the move to get established on the face below the Upper diagonal(CAFS) was pretty tough. Finished on the face just left of the where CAFS finishes. Is this accurate for Catch a falling Car?


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Tomato (5.8) : Photo
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: I made the same mistake(tomato vs green wall)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : ... : Photo
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: The lower portion of the line should be dashed. There is a formation in the foreground blocking the actual route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : A Farewell to Poodles (5.9)
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Definitely inferior to its poodle Metallica cousin to the left. Very grainy in comparison and MUCH easier. Nonetheless similar fun, engaging movement up the cracks


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : For Whom the Poodle Tolls (5.9)
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: A return to hardish lead climbing for me today(2015 OCT) crushed it, and having not led a Jtree .9 in a few years I still felt you had plenty of gear options down low. Having to commit for the first few moves is just part of climbing. My partner( a stranger and obvious sport climber) kept asking why no one had invented a 'stick cam' which I laughed and said I am sure someone has made one. Okay but seriously I LOVED this climb, and I agree compared to other .9 classics like Pope's C... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Poodles are People Too (5.10b)
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: I like Pigs in heat substantially more. Poodles had some good hard moves off the deck and maintained a similar degree of difficulty but it was super straightforward. Whereas Pigs gave you the opportunity to work on multiple Jtree techniques. Kinda like comparing WL to Dung Fu.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Pig in Heat (5.10b X)
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: The direct start adds just the perfect amount of thin crack moves to really complete what is a super super fun route.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Top of the Pops. (5.7) : Photo
By: Kyle Wills When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Note the arrow is specifically pointing the the small peak behind the formation in the foreground. You must either continue to hike up the trail and then cut back right, or scramble up the blocks located in the center of the photo.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Top of the Pops. (5.7)
By: Kyle Wills When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: Definitely difficult to find. Thanks to the only photo being taken from the top, I opted to finally walk around on the top till I spotted it. Which was immediately. I have attached some photos to help people get there. If you wish to avoid hiking above the formation.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertip Traverse (5.4)
By: Kyle Wills When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: Definitely trend right from the belay after the traverse. The "layback flake" is the best way to finish, adds just a little technical climbing to a fun route. Also there is NO REASON to use the tree to start the first pitch of climbing after the gully.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.4)
By: Kyle Wills When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: I had a great time getting on a two pitch start variation that it sounds like some have commented about previously. Starting in an alcove right of the traditional start but still "on" the buttress. The top of pitch 1 is a bit loose and blocky to the left but theres a good slab option in the middle on a large tumbled rock or a wide crack to a downward knife blade flake. Second pitch runs up some short fun thin layback and then a wide hand crack as you move past the prominent tree on the right sid... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunkist Face : Question of Balance (5.10c R)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Also like many on Suicide one can only top rope this with a 70m, and the belayer will be belaying about 1/3 the way up the gully.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunkist Face : Question of Balance (5.10c R)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: A couple good opportunities for variations (like everything on Suicide) here. A fun, albeit short no hands slab traverse exists moving back left before you reach the top of the blocks and the normal slab finish.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Komodo Corner (5.8)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Alas if it could only be longer! Or just had the two pitches truly stacked on top of one another. As an out of shape trad climber trying to get his lead head back it felt great to crush this climb. with great foot jams the whole + solid slab divots on the upper pitch your really can't rate this anything above a 7, I really don't think it is sandbagged at all.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Sam I Am (5.8)
By: Kyle Wills When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: In response to Aws condition report I understand his motivation and I am glad he not only made the marks but posted in on MP.com HOWEVER, I nonetheless feel anyone who admits they have zero experience setting anchor bolts probably shouldn't go and throw a bunch of red x's on a bolt that you 'think' may have slipped.

I see what he is referring to but from my perspective topping out on the climb and seeing two brand new looking anchors with one randomly covered in painted "x's" left me mostly con... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Fingerrip (5.9)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 17, 2012

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Comments: Yes, the first move the the first bolt is committing, but truly moving to the anchors is pretty runout past the second bolt. Pitching off the last move will result in a pretty serious fall and there is absolutley a spot for a .75/.5 Camalot before making this move which wouldve left me much more confident.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Itnyre Pinnacle
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: This area was added, after climbing an unknown route on an unknown formation, in what we thought was the North Pinnacles. Clearly I am hoping for confirmation that this is in fact accurate information I am inputting. It seems to be the only plausible explanation.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Gunsmoke (5.9)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Flake still feels like it just waiting for an overzealous climbing to rip it off the top. Not sure about 'plentiful' face holds, definitely had my shoulder and foot in the crack and squirmed my way up with limited foot placements worth getting excited about out of the crack. Flake give your body a break, but you definitely hustle off of it.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Last Call For Alcohol (5.8)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: Very fun? I disagree. There is nothing wrong with this route, but it is short and far too many huge face holds to merit the 5.8 rating. Its not thoughtful climbing at all, but if you are looking for an easy gear climb, maybe as a newish ( not brand new, as placement in the beginning arent super obvious) leader this is a good choice.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : West Country (5.7)
By: Kyle Wills When: Aug 1, 2011

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Comments: Great route, wife was NOT a fan of the descent. And she climbs in JTree all the time so isnt exactly new to "sketch-town" (her words) descents.

We had a blast climbing, and in no rush in the morning and still arrived on scene first.


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