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Member Since: Jan 30, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Kyle Queener
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Point Rank: # 3,961
Total Points: 121
Last Year: 74
Last 30 Days: 45
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 156 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 24 | Posts | Stars 109 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : West of the Sun (5.14a)
By: Kyle Queener When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I've always had my belayer on the nice block at the start of Ranger Bolts and either skipped the bottom 5.12 section by starting on Ranger Bolts and transferring over or doing the same but then lowering into the very base of West of the Sun, essentially doing the bottom few bolts on top rope and transitioning to leading after.

The actual start of the route is a dark, cold and creepy place and not a place I would want to be for an extended period of time.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Ranger Bolts (aka Move over... (5.13a)
By: Kyle Queener When: 2 days ago

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Comments: A somewhat key hold has broken off just shy of the first set of anchors making this slightly harder now but maintains the same grade.

To the first set of anchors feels solid 5.11d/5.12a and is great climb itself.
To the middle anchors is 5.13a - but stopping there may cause Yabo to roll over in his grave.
To the tippy top is 5.13a but with a 5.12a red point crux at the top - and Yabo rests in peace.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : The Big Pucker (5.10d R)
By: Kyle Queener When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: If you place protection in the cracks, like you should, you won't find the route deserving of a R rating. A good rack is 1/2'" to 3" or purple to blue C4 camalots.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : The Great Escape (5.11c)
By: Kyle Queener When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Great climbing, difficult for the grade? Maybe. I had a hard time reading the sequences squinting into the sun. The second pitch (the first bit of 5.11 climbing) was hugely fun. Steep jugs and bolts in Yosemite Valley?!?! Yeah dude!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : Cosmos (5.11b)
By: Kyle Queener When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: APC = Absolute Pinnacles Classic ***


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : Lithium (5.11b)
By: Kyle Queener When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: FA: Clint Cummis, Dennis Erik Strom 3/1992

If you see either of these names in the FA section of the guide then you know what to expect. Bold and classic Pinnacles climbing.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : Pistol Whipped (5.10d R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: FA: Todd Telander, Mike Carville, Robert Cox 4/1987

R Rating: Given the ledges on the route the possibility for injury is a real possibility. However, the crux is well protected and the only place of concern is above the last bolt (after the crux) while placing some gear in a flake from good holds. A couple medium cams do the job.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Gorillas in the Moss (5.12d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: Rumors are rumors, but a rumor is that a hold has broken at the bottom crux sometime after the FA. After investing some time trying to find a sequence I could see some possibility in climbing the route but I don't feel like it would still be climbed at 5.12d. Has anyone out there done this line recently?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Lardbutt (5.13c)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments:



Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : ‹bermensch (5.14a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: You can watch the old Masters of Stone video that shows Chris doing the FA. You can see a couple holds that have changed since then.

And just one added note to everyone - leaving fixed draws up at Pinnacles is not okay, so please clean you're routes at the end of the day and keep preserving the good relationship between climbers, general park visitors and park staff. Also, it's a great idea to pick up some trash while you're out there and if you source a stick from the bushes to use as ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Machete Direct (5.10a/b A1 R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: In regards to the free climbing on this route which hasn't been mentioned yet, the two 5.12 pitches feature extremely short sections of hard climbing. The first pitch free is about 5.12a if you stay on the right line of bolts, I'm not sure if the left side goes free, I've never tried it. Pitch five features one move that's maybe 5.12b followed by mellow 5.11. The beauty of this pitch is the stark contrast between a 5.12 bolt ladder and the remainder of the pitch being mostly 5.6 through a bushy ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Due to recent events this is just a reminder that fixed draws are not allowed at Pinnacles. Neither are fixed lines. Just keep that in mind. Re-rack your gear and stuff it in your pack on the way out.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : New Wave (5.11d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: I felt the crux was in the balance moves down lower heading to bolt #2. The upper section felt straight forward and I didn't think it was very hard to figure out or very strenuous. Although this comes from a guy who climbed this route because I was flailing around on the 5.10 corner to the right and bailed. A consensus has been reached that I'm a better bolt clipper than a widget jammer.

Fun movement, a couple good bolts and a couple bad ones.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Excelsior (5.12d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: I had apprehensions before getting on this route. It looks intimidating and completely blank. I thought I was going to get completely shut down. On my first try I fell at what was the crux, a very hard section to read correctly as the holds are so small and far apart you can't see them until you're above them or know where they are already. I almost didn't give it another try because I was still slightly intimidated by it. Luckily I tried it one more time and got the red point. There was one sec... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Future Shock (5.12b)
By: Kyle Queener When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: This could be my favorite 5.12 in the park. Great technical movement, great history. Although I wish one bolt (the last one) was in a different location it is still a classic. You have to climb the crux on what could be for some, if you're like me, an uncomfortable distance from the last bolt. It's manageable and I don't think it's dangerous but I'm never too psyched to be out there. Most climbers probably are not as concerned about this as I am, but for the few who are, we should probably start... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Miscegenation (5.12a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: I've done this route numerous times now, and I do like it a lot. Although it always seems really hard for the grade. At least to me. In comparison to other 5.12a's in the park this could be the most difficult. I feel okay giving this a 5.12b rating. It has great movement, a low crux, and is mostly comprised of longer moves to great edges with some options for the finish depending which way you break off.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Lava Falls (5.9 R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: I've done this route approximately ten times now and still ALWAYS find it exciting and fun. One of the nicest ways to climb it is to follow the first pitch and continue on leading the second pitch. Since the belay at the top of the first is off to the right you can just keep climbing without ever stopping at the belay stance. Just continue on up and do the whole thing in one nice continuous climb.

I also believe this route is definitely climbable even on the hottest days if you wait for the wa... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : ‹bermensch (5.14a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: Great route, good movement. I found I liked to bring my stick clip for the start. Doesn't really let up and I would say there are not any rests. Just enough there to clip and maybe grab chalk. Climbs more like a long boulder problem. Consensus seems to be 5.14a.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9-)
By: Kyle Queener When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Instead of ending the third pitch at the 4 bolts way out left another option is to build an anchor while still in the crack which leaves the 4th pitch a straight shot up without any traversing involved. There is a good stance here and is not awkward one bit. We didn't feel like we needed tri-cams on the 4th pitch. We placed a few cams, a nut, and threaded some holes and stayed pretty safe.
The approach from the geological site was definitely the crux of the day. We did the raps with one 60m rop... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Subterranean Tango (5.10a R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: A nice easy way to do the bottom section is to clip the first two bolts and then lower into the pit and top rope the bottom section and then lead the rest. A good option for the belayer in winter months.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Rocket in my pocket (5.10d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I don't agree with the statement that this is the best .10d in the park. It's good, but probably not the best.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Lava Falls (5.9 R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: Re-bolted in January 2009. Expect "bomber" bolts.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Post Orgasmic Depression (5.11a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: Downgraded to 5.10d. Great route, excellent warm up. Highly recommended.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Cantaloupe Death Direct (5.12a PG13)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: This is an okay route. I would recommend Hot Lava Lucy before this. A good route if your breaking into 5.12 climbing, since its basically a top rope.


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