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Member Since: Jan 30, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 13, 2015
Contact Kyle Queener


Point Rank: # 5,305
Total Points: 77
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 1
10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Kyle Queener been climbing?










Contributions


All 108 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts | Stars 78 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Bermuda Highway (FA)

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 45'

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Broken Tiers/Transformer Wa...

Sep 26, 2014

West of the Sun

5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a (0)

Sport, 1 pitch, 80'

CA : Central Coast : ... : Monolith

Feb 8, 2013

‹bermensch

5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a (1)

Sport, 1 pitch

CA : Central Coast : ... : Monolith

Feb 8, 2013

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Bermuda Highway

Bermuda Highway

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Bermuda Highway (5.12b)

Sep 26, 2014

Overview of the approach

Overview of the approach

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : Bermuda Highway (5.12b)

Sep 26, 2014

A sea of white granite and Fall colors in full eff...

A sea of white granite and Fall colors in full effect. Nearing the top of the 3rd pitch.

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : A Little Nukey (5.9-)

Oct 7, 2013

My solution to not having tri-cams for the solutio...

My solution to not having tri-cams for the solution pockets.

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : A Little Nukey (5.9-)

Oct 7, 2013

A Little Nukey

A Little Nukey

CA : Southern Sierra : ... : A Little Nukey (5.9-)

Sep 4, 2012

Supercrack Buttress

Supercrack Buttress

UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Oct 16, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Lardbutt (5.13c)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments:



Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : ‹bermensch (5.14a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: You can watch the old Masters of Stone video that shows Chris doing the FA. You can see a couple holds that have changed since then.

And just one added note to everyone - leaving fixed draws up at Pinnacles is not okay, so please clean you're routes at the end of the day and keep preserving the good relationship between climbers, general park visitors and park staff. Also, it's a great idea to pick up some trash while you're out there and if you source a stick from the bushes to use as ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Machete Direct (5.10a/b A1 R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: In regards to the free climbing on this route which hasn't been mentioned yet, the two 5.12 pitches feature extremely short sections of hard climbing. The first pitch free is about 5.12a if you stay on the right line of bolts, I'm not sure if the left side goes free, I've never tried it. Pitch five features one move that's maybe 5.12b followed by mellow 5.11. The beauty of this pitch is the stark contrast between a 5.12 bolt ladder and the remainder of the pitch being mostly 5.6 through a bushy ... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: Due to recent events this is just a reminder that fixed draws are not allowed at Pinnacles. Neither are fixed lines. Just keep that in mind. Re-rack your gear and stuff it in your pack on the way out.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : New Wave (5.11d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: I felt the crux was in the balance moves down lower heading to bolt #2. The upper section felt straight forward and I didn't think it was very hard to figure out or very strenuous. Although this comes from a guy who climbed this route because I was flailing around on the 5.10 corner to the right and bailed. A consensus has been reached that I'm a better bolt clipper than a widget jammer.

Fun movement, a couple good bolts and a couple bad ones.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Excelsior (5.12d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: I had apprehensions before getting on this route. It looks intimidating and completely blank. I thought I was going to get completely shut down. On my first try I fell at what was the crux, a very hard section to read correctly as the holds are so small and far apart you can't see them until you're above them or know where they are already. I almost didn't give it another try because I was still slightly intimidated by it. Luckily I tried it one more time and got the red point. There was one sec... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Future Shock (5.12b)
By: Kyle Queener When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: This could be my favorite 5.12 in the park. Great technical movement, great history. Although I wish one bolt (the last one) was in a different location it is still a classic. You have to climb the crux on what could be for some, if you're like me, an uncomfortable distance from the last bolt. It's manageable and I don't think it's dangerous but I'm never too psyched to be out there. Most climbers probably are not as concerned about this as I am, but for the few who are, we should probably start... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Miscegenation (5.12a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: I've done this route numerous times now, and I do like it a lot. Although it always seems really hard for the grade. At least to me. In comparison to other 5.12a's in the park this could be the most difficult. I feel okay giving this a 5.12b rating. It has great movement, a low crux, and is mostly comprised of longer moves to great edges with some options for the finish depending which way you break off.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Lava Falls (5.9 R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Sep 17, 2014

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Comments: I've done this route approximately ten times now and still ALWAYS find it exciting and fun. One of the nicest ways to climb it is to follow the first pitch and continue on leading the second pitch. Since the belay at the top of the first is off to the right you can just keep climbing without ever stopping at the belay stance. Just continue on up and do the whole thing in one nice continuous climb.

I also believe this route is definitely climbable even on the hottest days if you wait for the wa... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : ‹bermensch (5.14a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Mar 29, 2014

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Comments: Great route, good movement. I found I liked to bring my stick clip for the start. Doesn't really let up and I would say there are not any rests. Just enough there to clip and maybe grab chalk. Climbs more like a long boulder problem. Consensus seems to be 5.14a.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9-)
By: Kyle Queener When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Instead of ending the third pitch at the 4 bolts way out left another option is to build an anchor while still in the crack which leaves the 4th pitch a straight shot up without any traversing involved. There is a good stance here and is not awkward one bit. We didn't feel like we needed tri-cams on the 4th pitch. We placed a few cams, a nut, and threaded some holes and stayed pretty safe.
The approach from the geological site was definitely the crux of the day. We did the raps with one 60m rop... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Subterranean Tango (5.10a R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: A nice easy way to do the bottom section is to clip the first two bolts and then lower into the pit and top rope the bottom section and then lead the rest. A good option for the belayer in winter months.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Rocket in my pocket (5.10d)
By: Kyle Queener When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I don't agree with the statement that this is the best .10d in the park. It's good, but probably not the best.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : The Balconies : Lava Falls (5.9 R)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: Re-bolted in January 2009. Expect "bomber" bolts.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : West Side : Machete Ridge Area : Cuidado! (5.10c)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: Also Cuidado can mean "Watch out" or a "Head's up" kind of meaning. Very fitting for the holds you'll be pulling out on the way up. This route is open, but try to climb it on weekdays while no one is in the caves.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Monolith : Post Orgasmic Depression (5.11a)
By: Kyle Queener When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: Downgraded to 5.10d. Great route, excellent warm up. Highly recommended.


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