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Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. P. Marten


Member Since: Oct 24, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Kurtz
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Point Rank: # 120
Total Points: 4,043
Last Year: 312
Last 30 Days: 27
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1264 | Routes 140 | Areas 27 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements 25 | Comments 158 | Posts 32 | Stars 453 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I finally got around to climbing CitH. To make it interesting, we decided to top out on Mescalito and walk off. Here are some things you should consider if you want to do the same thing:

1. I was surprised at how much farther one must climb to reach the summit (about 8 additional pitches). We were the first party to summit after the big April rains and encountered tons of loose rock, debris and sand. The climbing above CitH is harder than the route itself. We stayed roped up until after the ... more >>


Location: NV : La Madre Range : Lone Mountain
By: Kurtz When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: As of April 2016, there are fences that block access to Urban Crag from the Lone Mountain Discovery Park. Don't park there. Instead, park along the side of W. Alexander Rd., just west of N. Henson St. It's an easy walk down the groomed jogging trail to Urban Crag which can be seen from where you park.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : No Glow (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Mar 17, 2016

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Comments: Yes, SpencerB. The No Glow rappels start at the thick metal cable strung around two trees. The first rapp is a rope stretcher (with a single 60m rope) to the GT and bolted chains. The second rappel is a little shorter and also ends at a nice set of bolted chains at a small ledge. The third rappel gets you to the ground.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Kurtz When: Mar 17, 2016

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Comments: We managed to jam a nice #3 Camalot half-way up P1. Let the treasure hunt begin!


Location: ME : Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi... : Mini-Pinnacle 2 (WI2) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Feb 23, 2016

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Comments: Correct!

O = belay "cave" at the top of P1
X = slung boulder at the very top


Location: ME : Katahdin : All Winter Ice Routes - Chi... : Mini-Pinnacle 2 (WI2)
By: Kurtz When: Feb 13, 2016

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Comments: Rapping off MP2 can be tricky. There is currently a large block slung with rope and rapp rings at the very top of P2. Since this point is much higher than 60 meters, you'll need to choose an intermediate point for the second rappel. Getting back to the P1 belay in the cave is a bit sketchy since P2 traverses pretty far to the left, but that's what we did since there was a nice V-thread in the cave. We bypassed a more temporary looking slung horn about 20m below the top because we weren't sur... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & : Landslide Gully (WI2-)
By: Kurtz When: Feb 4, 2016

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Comments: Hi Nick! That was us raining debris on you. Sorry about that. The ice was pretty punky in places and a bit harder than the posted WI2-.

The right hand fork started off on beautiful green ice but quickly became a steep bushwhack followed my some sketchy scrambling on chossy rock slabs. We topped out near a very large cairn.

We parked one car at the Willey House Station lot (Appalachian Trail) parking lot (more of a big pull-out). We then piled in the second car, drove one mile north, and pa... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Snowpatch (5.5 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 29, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, Eric. That move is closer to 5.7 PG. P3 of Red's Ruin is an easier alternative.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Blistered Toe (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: We attempted the 3 star Blistered Toe/Torture Garden/Yellow Crack link-up described in the Grey Dick. I missed the turn and ended up doing B.T. all the way to the GT in one pitch. A fun long climb with interesting routefinding that avoided the 5.8 PG-R T.G. pitch. We walked right on the GT 100 ft. through copious vulture poop to P3 of Yellow Crack. Very cool start on clean, interesting rock, but the second half of the pitch was a bit dirty with a turf mantle finish. A fine adventure!

We ra... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Wasp (5.9)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Our experience at the start of P2 matched the Grey Dick beta. I tried the 5.9 variation (climb to roof, traverse right and pull the roof just to the right of the big left-facing corner) but couldn't get over the overhang. Decent pro but very pumpy move or two. I backed off and now think I should have tried farther to the right.

My partner started up the the 5.5 variation (move up left to weakness in roof). Easy climbing but lots of loose, hollow rock. There was also recent rockfall evident ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Tangled Up and Blue (5.8-)
By: Kurtz When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: A decent climb but too short. Next time, I'll explore higher up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Never Never Land (5.10a)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: The right-hand bolt hanger is spinning at the P1 anchors. Doesn't look healthy.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Cold Turkeys (5.9+ PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: P1 should be much more popular. Starts easy and gets harder as you go. Fun moves, exciting crux.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Glyptodon (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: A Glyptodon...

Rock Climbing Photo: Glyptodon
Glyptodon



Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Overhanging Layback (5.7)
By: Kurtz When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: I love this route. Lots of variety and excitement (shady too!).

P3 is really 3 short walls separated by grassy ledges. The first two are easy and protect well, the third is harder and slabby without any pro. It's only a couple of balancey moves, but they are challenging (5.8 PG)


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Traverse of the Clods (5.9 PG13) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: This awesome pic shows both cruxes:

1. Stepping up from where the belayer is to get onto the traverse ledge.
2. Stretching across space on tiny fingers to complete the traverse when the ledge peters out.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Traverse of the Clods (5.9 PG13)
By: Kurtz When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: The beta for this great route is excellent and Tricia's pics are outstanding...BUT... you need to read everything including the picture captions and look at the pics carefully (unless you're a bad-ass).

Study this Key Picture.

IMHO the optional belay is primarily for moral support. I had no trouble skipping it. You may also prefer not to have your second watch as you vacillate and tremble.

3 of the 4 climbers I watched traversed too low at the end of P2 and got stuck. The mo... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.9-) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Perfect! Harold would have been a great rock climber.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Modern Times (5.9-)
By: Kurtz When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: A large cam is very reassuring as you move through the P2 crux. #4 works but a #5 fits with less fiddling.
The High Exposure rappel station (climbers right) gets you down in 3 single rope or 1 double rope rapps.


Location: MN : Crane Lake (MN/CA border) : Browns Bay
By: Kurtz When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: A really pretty crag and relatively clean for the area. We wanted to TR the left side. The first issue was getting to the top of the cliff. We tied our boat way left of the cliff and bushwhacked up. The next issue was keeping the rope out of the water. The heavier person (me) retreated to the boat (small aluminum houseboat tender) and positioned it near the line. The lighter person (daughter) rappelled off with the rope in stirrups. The water was too shallow to get directly underneath so ... more >>


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Diamond Ledge : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: Is that a child or a doll? (I think I need a new monitor)


Location: CT : Western Highlands : Whitestone Cliff : Right Side : AMC Route (5.8)
By: Kurtz When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: We TR'ed it and, maybe I'm getting soft, but I thought it was pretty darn stiff for the grade (especially the start and the finish). If one gets sketched at the top, you can escape right to easier climbing.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Lonely Challenge (5.5)
By: Kurtz When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I thought P1 was pretty stiff for the grade. The birch tree is very short and now dead. We accepted the challenge and continued to the top, linking P2 and P3 in one 60m pitch. It was hard to tell where the official route went so I just followed the most "appealing" line and tried to drag my second over as much loose rock and lichen as possible. Alpine feel, indeed!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Le Plie (5.7)
By: Kurtz When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: The rat's nest of slings has been replaced with static rope. Also, this route should be called "Deep Squat". Stretch a bit before starting up.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5) : Photo
By: Kurtz When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: The yellow blaze is quite high and hard to spot. If you reach the East Trapps Connector Trail (aka The Stairmaster), you've gone too far.


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